2ManyZs

It may still crack even if you use Armor-All. Before you got the car who's to say how often it was done, unless you are lucky enough to be the original owner that is! I'd keep using the Armor-All or some type of treatment and try to keep it out of the sun as much as possible, use a sunshade in the windshield or maybe one of the dash "rugs" or mats to keep the sun from beating directly on it. Unfortunately that's about all you can do, the sun beating through the windshield is the biggest enemy. I can't remember if I've ever seen one of the cloth type mats for a Z dash, but I'm sure there has to be one out there somewhere that wouldn't look too bad, still better than a cracked and trashed dash!

I'm only the little one in years, not in size! Still plays with toy planes at his age!!!!

You will probably have to tell what type of electronic ignition is in the car, there are so many different ones and they usually feed the tach differently. Perhaps if you post that, someone with the same set-up may be able to help.

Since you won't be seeing it again anytime soon, go ahead and shave them off, I've tried gluing them down but it just doesn't want to stay down. I believe somewhere on this site I saw where Mike and a couple others were discussing a good price on recovering dashes, I just will have to look for the thread, in case you want the info for when you may want to replace your dash.

You're welcome, pulling out a dash is not my favorite job either. I'd rather pull a leaking transmission anyday. The half cover is most noticeable around the 3 center gauge pods since it only comes down to the top of the pod. The rest of it wraps down far enough to where the dash turns under that you won't see that line as much. I'd have to go out and dig out the full cover I have to see how it covers around the center gauges.

You could try taking it out and soaking it in WD-40, or try it on the car. Are you sure it isn't the hood release cable not letting it close? You might want to check that also to see if it is working OK. It could also be the striker on the hood is out of adjustment or the hood bumpers are set too high. They are the little round pads at each corner of the hood on the firewall. The hood striker has a nut on the end(through the spring) and a slot on the end so you can adjust it up and down. If all this fails, try Motorsport Auto, they may have new ones,(I know they sell hood cables) or try to find one in a junkyard. It could also be that your hood is not aligned just right so there are a lot of things you can check before you spend any money.

Have you replaced the rack bushings?? The stock rubber ones will deteriorate and the rack will move in the mounts, causing a shimmy in the wheel, and a feeling of very sloppy steering. If you haven't get a set of the hard bushings such as MSA has. They are a pain to replace unless you unhook the tie rod ends so you can move the rack around. If that isn't it a rack from a 260 or 280 should fit OK, I'm not sure about the 280zx rack. But I'm inclined to say that it may work also.

You really need to do a leakdown test to find out exactly what it is, it could be rings, valve seals, guides, actually it could be a lot of things or a combination of more than one. It could be the chokes are stuck too. It would be really hard to say without getting under the hood. If you could get your hands on the car for a couple hours and take it to a shop to do a compression check, a leakdown test and just a good looking over I believe the answer will be obvious, but it's kinda hard to say with only second hand info from the owner.

If your budget doesn't allow you to buy a new one or recover the old one then the dash covers are a great way to spruce up the interior for very little money. I have not used the full dash cover ( I have one, the car isn't ready for interior work yet) but have used the half covers. When you put it on put it on right the first time and it should look good for years, or until you are ready to re-do the dash. Take the metal panel off up next to the windshield ( you will need a stubby screwdriver) and make sure you have a couple heavy books, some decent masking tape (or some other kind of tape that won't leave any residue behind and I used just regular clear silicone. Get a big tube, clean the dash good, preferably with alcohol to get off any Armor-all etc. Put the silicone on in long thin beads, don't get too close to the edges or it will ooze out. Use plenty of silicone, lay it on, get it right( the silicone will let you move it around) and when you have it where you want it, put plenty of books or whatever is handy, and then tape the edges down good. Let it dry for a day at least, longer if you can, and it should stay put for a long time. I have one on my old race car that has been on there for almost 15 years and has never come loose. If you did everything right it will be hard to tell at first glance that there is a cover on there. Good luck.

Sorry, only got one. Now all I have to do is finish a car that I can put it in, hmmm... I guess it'll have to be the 71. I won't tell you about some of the other parts I have stashed away. ! Ya know, I was looking in the links and see that you have a place you can get radiator core supports. You are one up on us it seems.

Hate to tell you this 240z, but I found my luggage cover. The original box isn't in very good shape but the cover has never been used. Even found the little bag with the snaps to mount it. Now, if I could just remember where and when I got it!!

Since I'm not too familiar with the Zx engines I'll give you an idea at what you are trying to accomplish. I believe the zx motors were around 8-8.5:1 stock. So you would probably be looking at a different set of pistons at the very least. You might need to shave the head a little (then shim the cam towers) to reach 10:1. Try looking at the Datsun Garage in the links section for more info, I'm just giving you a guess. 10:1 would run OK on pump gas, as long as it's premium. I doubt you could use any grade less. Any more compression than 10:1 and you would likely have to use some sort of additive.

I know what it is like, the winters that is. I was born and raised in Massena, NY. Back in those days the winters were a lot worse than what they are now!!

Reminds me of the Hillborn fuel injection systems you used to see on the top fuel cars in the late 60's. Or were they Enderle? Whichever, looks pretty cool. I'd like to know what is lurking under that valve cover, or does it just look huge due to the camera angle??

Yes, it's possible the valve seals have become hard and brittle, sitting for a long time like that. My one car sat for over 4 years without being started and is OK. They may have been going bad before he parked it. Yes, definately check the clutch as they have a habit of rusting to the flywheel. You probably ought to check the brake master cylinder depending on what kind of fluid he was using. Most racing type fluids draw moisture and will ruin the seals in the master cylinder in no time. Also, you might want to take a good look at the wheel cylinders in the rear and the front calipers for leaks. While you are under there you probably should check out the u-joints, I have seen them freeze up if the car sat for a while. By the way. Snow?? c'est la merde!!

As far as the timing chain kit, yes, it is a bit expensive. But in the long run it is probably worth the extra money now to do everything right. As long as you are going to pull the front cover to do the timing chain and tensioner you may as well change the gears and the seals and gaskets to save you from having to do part of the job later. It is not a hard job, just a little time consuming. No sense working on something twice if you can do it all the first time, right? As far as the valve seals are concerned, are you sure that is the problem? It could be just a set of rings that are starting to show their wear. If the valve seals are shot, it will smoke when you first start it up after it has sat for a while. I believe it is possible to change the seals with the head still on the car if the right spring compressor is used, I don't know for sure as everytime I have messed around with the valves the head has been off the car. You might want to run a compression check just to double check the ring condition and the valve seats, a leak down test should show what the problem since you will be pressurizing it with an air hose, if you hear air leaking into the intake it's the valves, if it leaks into the crankcase, you got ring problems. Just a couple ideas before you get too involved.

I have one question. I notice the side marker lamps are not original, but look like they are flush mounted. What are they from? They look good, I've often thought about putting on a set of flush mounts and how they would look. OK, another question. Are you missing the c-pillar emblem on the drivers side or are these pictures taken at different times? I noticed there is one on the passengers side, just wondering if the first pictures you posted were done before you had finished the car off. Is it my imagination or the color of the car? Did you mold in the headlight buckets? In the one pic it looks like there is no seam there. I'm not picking on your car, it does look great, I'm just curious.

You have either been reading my posts, or my mind. I have yet to see one done, and I can't understand why. It's one of the most logical swaps in my opinion. I just replied to the twin turbo L-28 thread with the same question. Perhaps the one reason it isn't being done is the cost of getting the engine from a wrecking yard. I would imagine they would bring a premium price, that is if you can find one. I don't remember even seeing a non-turbo swap done. That would be the cheapest route to go, with an acceptable gain in hp. I believe the non-turbo's were in the 225 range. The normally aspirated engines would probably much easier and much cheaper to find. I'd like to see one that has the 300zx brakes, and engine.

I have heard of Cartch, just didn't know they ever did a Datsun kit. I know they are into Mustangs etc. and they got to be quite popular in the 80's when turbo's were all the rage. One reason we don't all have this is money! I have a feeling this would be an expensive kit, twin turbo's and all. Might even end up doing some piston and bottom end mods to keep it together with the boost that would be needed to put out 350 hp. I'd just like to find a ZX turbo with all the parts in a junkyard somewhere, that would a good step up. Never heard of Janspeed, but if they only advertise 175 hp that isn't really much of a boost. I'd still like to see somebody do a late model 300zx twin turbo swap. I think that would be just about perfect, plenty of power in a nice little package. Might take a lot of work to wire all the electronics in, but then, isn't that why some people put carpeting in their garages?? !

Great job! The engine polishing and detailing looks great. The wheels are an exact look-a-like for the American Racing Type 23's I've been telling Mike about, although I don't remember the "Modern" brand name. Judging by where you live I'd say the biggest bumpers in the world would be a good choice. If it was a "weekend warrior" and going to spend it's life mostly parked in the garage the fiberglass ones from MSA would look good, they would be almost as strong as the stock bumpers!

You could try the "Quick Shifter" kit from Motorsport. It is designed to reduce the shifter throws. I think on the ZX trans it says it reduces the throws by 30% or so, it is expensive, but it may give you what you want. I don't have much experience with the ZX shifters so someone else may have an easier fix.

Thanks, I wish I could take credit for the picture itself, a couple of professional photographers come to all the raqces and take pictures while you are racing. Then they send you the proofs and you can buy the pics from them after you see how good they are. I believe this one was done by Roz Rosintoski. It didn't come through the scanner as well as I had hoped, one of these days I'll go all high-tech, maybe.

I've heard for years I have too d--n many Z's so I thought it fit. I do not know what is available from Nissan as far as body parts go. I do know there are a lot of panels that are no longer available from them or anyone. The strut towers, inner front fenders, radiator core support, I believe the rear panel(the one the taillights mount to) that is just a start. Most aftermarket suppliers such as Motorsport Auto(www.zcarparts.com) have replacement panels for floors and fenders but the main chassis parts are what is the problem. Wish I could be more help, and good luck.

One more try.

Well, I got one of two in Mike. I think I forgot to re-format the pic of the 280. I'll work on that when I get back from Philadelphia(ugh) later today. The 240 pic I re-formatted but I think I comprssed the file down too much trying to post it before so maybe I can get a little better one in later. Thanks for helping us "wannabe's" out!!