Zup

Beautiful Z and beautiful job with the trailer! Very nice---and here's wishing you all the luck you need, although seeing your execution to date I don't think you need a lot of luck. Seems to me your plans are well thought out in advance. Happy Motoring!

Maybe I should have asked if you are "restoring the car" or just trying to "make do". If the latter is the case, then buy some foam weatherstrip from a hardware store, as many threads on this topic have suggested, and be done with it.

www.240zrubberparts.com Steve Nixon makes and sells them along with virtually ever other non-available rubber part for the restoration of 240Z cars. These gaskets are not cheap but they are exact reproductions of original gaskets. They fit and function perfectly and will last a very long time. I documented the use of Steve's gaskets in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/46317-240z-fuel-and-brake-line-insulator-sets-and-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir/page-9#entry470469 Jim D. "Zup"

I'm planning on arriving Tuesday (14th) late afternoon around 4 or 5 and checking in to the Hilton. Then I'll be hanging out in the lobby or the pool waiting for you guys so I can extend a howdy and a handshake to all. I'm really looking forward to this gathering Jim D. "Zup"

Hardway--- What is that sensor looking thing in your photo located in the block next to the front of the transmission under the exhaust manifold? My 7/70 build date 240Z has a block drain plug at that location. Just curious if it is/was hooked up to anything, and if so what? The temp gauge?? Mine has only the single wire from the thermostat sender----

---Twilight Zone with period correct analog navigation enhancement---

"-an Elise" Strangely funny--- as just this afternoon I was thinking about an Elise that I saw a few years back. Don't know what brought that thought on as I haven't thought it before----but it came to mind today as I was driving home from work. They are very attractive automobiles. Jim D. "Zup"

Andrew-- Looking good! Keep doing the nice work---your old gal will look young again! Jim D. "Zup"

It took a while for me to get to it but-- here is a photo of the air cleaner I refinished for my 73 240Z (yes, I converted to 3 screw round top carbs) using Steve Nixon's reproduction gaskets mentioned above. I am very satisfied with the gaskets---they are identical to the originals in profile. I found I needed to cut them with a razorblade to shorten the overall length by about 3/8", as in a test fit they were a little large. I used Dap Weldwood contact cement. (in the small 3 ounce glass bottle with an attached brush applicator in the cap---it was a perfect sized brush for applying the cement to the housing and to the gasket) Your experience may vary, but I cut away all of the old gaskets and had the housings blasted to remove all of the old paint, then hand sanded with 400 grit silicon carbide paper. Wipe down with wax and grease remover several times, let dry and rattle can spray with Dupli-Color DE1607 Chev. Orange Engine Enamel (It appears identical to the original color--a deep red/orange) Let the paint dry for several days to harden or the contact cement will soften the paint and cause wrinkling. Decals are to come from Banzai Motorworks---- www.zzxdatsun.com I hope this helps anyone restoring their air cleaner. Steve's gaskets are not cheap, but they are perfect, and again he has reproduced a discontinued part that can not be found anywhere else. Thank you Steve! Jim D. "Zup"

Red7 If the outside of your Z is a preview, the engine bay should be a real treat for all that love to see them as original. Some serious coin has been spent on this beauty even before you imported it to the UK. I can't imagine the cartage and tariff fees associated with that. You should be in Z nirvana now. Thanks for sharing your photos of such a fine example! Jim D. "Zup"

Happy to hear you and the Z are safe at your new home Jim! I sent you a P.M. Welcome to the whoooooo-Pig-Sooooeeeeee state! Jim D. "Zup"

Hi Mike-- Your horn project looks great and your revival of an old thread is very interesting! I can't help with the date of the change to 115db, but did notice while refurbishing my 6/73 240Z original horns (both dated W7) that the color was definitely not black as was referenced in thread you provided. Comparison to many black painted objects around the house and shop helped to confirm this. The manufacturer, (Miyamotohorn) really put some quality materials into the fabrication of these horns. The paint they used was very durable---about as close to powder coated as I can imagine-- being applied 40+ years ago. I used medium grade steel wool and even a very vigorous scrubbing does not phase it. I don't know what caused the vertical barring in the paint (see left horn), but both horns exhibited this. Near as my eyes can tell the color is a very dark olive drab---and could easily be mistaken as black. In the photo, the horn on the left has only been cleaned. The one on the right has been cleaned and the painted portions re-painted to simulate the original. The closest I could come was to spray them with olive drab camouflage (too green), followed by metallic bronze (not green enough) and then a very light misting of the olive drab camouflage again to give it a slightly greenish cast. The photos do not show up these differences as well as I hoped they would, but this process satisfied my eyes and those of several neighbors I asked for opinion. The mounting ear spring assembly portion is made of high grade stainless steel and all of the mounting and assembly screws are of high grade steel that does not rust badly. The stainless mounting ears, large mounting bolts and screws were not painted nor were the backsides of the horns as your photo shows. Only the outer front ring and center portion of the horn were painted. The nut, lockwasher and screw in the center were not painted. Hopefully others will chime in with their observations and experiences regarding horn restoration and paint correctness and insight as to the date change from 110db to 115db. My theory of why the date of manufacture of the car is 6/73 while the date of the horns is 7/73 is that the car is a very late 6th month build and the fitment of the horns was in the last stages of production of the car and as a result it received horns actually made in 7/73. I should add that the car was purchased from the original owner and has full documentation of it's mileage and service records. Jim D. "Zup"

Yes, it unscrews as 240dkw says. I found when I was refurbing my antennae that the pointy tip will also thread on to a later 280Z motor/mast that I had. That motor and mast was in much better shape mechanically so I left the pointy tip on it for use as the replacement in the 240. I used Stihl string trimmer line (.0130") that I purchased on ebay. It works perfectly. Credit goes to ajmcforester for his extensive post about refurbishing these antennae masts. There was also a post done by JLPurcell which was beautifully done with re-plated parts and a complete disassembly and re-assembly of the complete motor and mast. An "antenna restoration" search should turn it up.

The coolant hard line is still available from MSA. Not cheap---about $90 Or you can get it from www.jdm-car-parts.com for about the same price as they both come from the same place. I have a used re-plated one in about the same condition as Jim Arnett's. If you are interested in it give me a P.M. Jim D. "Zup"

Hey--get a Hero 3+ camera from www.GoPro.com and couple it with a intervalometer from www.cam-do.com and set it up on the dash to take a time-lapse of the journey. HD and easy to configure. Not chicken feed, but not terribly expensive, and you'll have captured this trip of your lifetime for your lifetime. Your not likely to do this again Jim.

May all the powers that Z guide you and keep you safe and sound in your epic trip from the great NW of the US to the great NW of AR in the heartland. You'll travel through every color in the rainbow and through the most urban of manmade and through the most natural of Nature. You will see and appreciate how hugely vast and wonderfully magnificent this country is in a seemingly endless series of one mile snapshots. Ill think of you and your Z as you are in route that week and wish to extend a handshake and a pat on the back when we meet face to face after your arrival. Best of luck to you Jim in your journey! You are S30Driver!! Jim D. "Zup"

I should have said---- "Your 1/70 may have had a plastic evaporator tank if it had one at all." My reply was based on my experience with my 7/70 Z and 6/73 Z so I may have been in error by making that statement. I have read that the very early cars for export to Canada had no requirement for the evaporation system. The US market did have Federal requirements, so the question in your case is may be "Which car do you have?" Is your speedometer calibrated in KPH?

The original one for your 1/70 was plastic. The later metal ones will work, but the interior panel that covers the tank is different because of the shape of the tank, so you would have to use the later panel with it. Not correct for a 1/70. Sourcing original hoses is difficult as several of these hoses have been discontinued by Nissan. Arne wrote an excellent reference thread about refurbishing/ replacing these hoses---just do a search on evaporation tank refurbish and it should show up. Also not correct---there is a lot of information on removing the tank and lines altogether. The clamps are of several different sizes and will probably require sourcing as used parts to find them all. Being a Canuk I think you would be well served by contacting Jim Karst (zKars)in Calgary---send him a PM. He knows early Z'z very well and may be quite helpful. Philip Pilgram (Blue)in Nova Scotia is another Canadian you should try to contact.

Had this same problem--- Years of battery acid laden moisture discolors and corrodes the tubing in this spot. While not "proper", I sanded mine with 220 grit carborundum paper and applied clear over it. No one around me has a plating tank large enough to begin to fit for re-plating. Unless they are very severely corroded they will brighten up nice and shiny. You will see that the tubing itself has a colored hue maybe from copper (?) used in the alloy. Looks worlds better and I'm happy! 2c Jim D. "Zup"

Loaded= all the weight of the car on the suspension and on the ground---then torque to spec

Let me be among the first to welcome you to Hog Country Jim! Hope the move is smooth for y'all and settled in without issue. Give me a PM with particulars if there is any way I can help. Husky to Razorback??---I think it can be done!

I know it's a long shot but--- looking for battery cables and voltage regulator if original. Thanks! Jim D. "Zup"

Oh boy! I'll be first in line when these become available! Hip Hip Hurrah for you Steve! Some of the time things in life can happen when you wait! And----I've waited and wanted and wished for quite some time. I can see a few air cleaner housing refurbishments in the near future to keep me busy! Jim D. "Zup"

Some things to consider----- Replacing the rubber parts on a 73 is not easy on the wallet. Those parts are distinctly different from any other year of production for the 240Z, and are very expensive IF you can find them. I know from experience as I have a 6/73. If you do decide to go the 70-72 bracket route it will be cheaper by far than sourcing the rubber parts alone. The rubber packing pieces you show in the photo above run approximately $325.00 a side for new and there is only one place that I know of that has them dependably. The long bumper trim strips at each side of the bumper are unobtainable from all the searching I have done. The over-rider rubber trim is hard to find as well. They are sided---right and left--- and again they are different than any other year of production. I've paid $90.00 each and was damn glad to find them when I did. Straightening and re-chroming the bumper itself is doable, but at a cost comparable to new Futofab when shipping each way is taken into consideration. The rear bumper is nearly the same situation regarding the rubber trim. It is very hard to find and quite expensive if you are fortunate enough to locate it. I've decided to keep mine, as I want the car to be as original as possible, but the knowledge that the rubber will all need replacement in the future makes it a difficult choice to maintain. There was some talk of reproducing rubber trim among the forum members a short while back, but it hasn't gained much traction to date. If you decide to ditch your originals, please let me know. You may have an interested buyer in me. Good luck whatever you decide to do. Jim D. "Zup"

Sad yes---but I will remember and celebrate his legacy every time I turn the key.