240260280z

Pull valve cover and look at lobes...and oiling ....easy to do If all good then Pull one spark plug at a time while idling to find which cylinder is associated with the noise.

Gtom is MacGyver ! very clever.

sometimes previous owners do not secure the battery and it slides. When this happens the +pos terminal will short to the inner fender area. Usually if the car just dies and the tach drops instantly, it is a transistor failure in the ignition system..typically caused by heat. Once it cools the car will run again until it heats again As mentioned above, rust from an old gas tank can clog the fuel lines.

for future readers: jacking and lowering at the tail of the transmission can apply some torque forces after the bolts are out to help loosen things a little. Tapping around the margin between the motor and the transmission with a hammer can percussively loosen things with the tail jacked then released a little.

Looks like a bot or spammer from China when looking at profile.

I'm in Fla going up and down the I95 (one of the straightest parts) in an Altima rental with 500mi. on the odometer. Every 2 sec. I have to make a steering correction...exactly the same as on sentras and versas I have rented over the past 5 years. There is no dead zone and they over correct. drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - drift left - correct - drift right - correct - etc. It is very tiring and dangerous as the car will drift out of the lane if not corrected. Nissan can't seem to get the electric steering right and must have poor test drivers and poor engineers who don't seem to give a damn or have no familiarity with how a car should drive. If they put this junk in the IDX...good luck on a track. Early Toyotas with electric power steering had this same problem..but the improved it. Kia's seem to be 1/2 way there. Not sure about Honda and Hyundai yet...more renting to do. S2000's and NSX's never ever had this problem.

zcar convention in SD this year...good move!

Isn't stout related to beer?

Looks interesting like the Cosmos. I'll defer until John Coffey chimes in. I've never purchased coil overs before so I have some research to do before committing.

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John Coffey has a post somewhere about the better coatings and their efficiency. I think he mentioned internal coating too. Any decrease in manifold heat is usually a good thing except where it is engineered for icing prevention, or for boiling off unwanted fuel accumulation.

Typical mainland Chinese... looks like a cap, feels like a cap but it ain't. It's a polished turd that fakes a real cap. Mainland China specializes in this and they are very good at it. Now that their economy is cooling, they are using even more watering-down methods. Now I avoid everything I can from China or labelled "imported for". For your problem, use non-chinese hose ~ 4" and 2 hose clamps. Stick a stainless bolt in the end and clamp it.

Bcdd?

double check plug wire order

Do the 240sx transmission swap. btw did you see my pm reply?

Beautiful car. I love the bumper re-work. i think the springs may be a bit too long. It seems to be riding higher than most Z's.

Use Rice Krispies for Asian Cars and Muselix or Alpen for European cars (except Lucky charms for DeLoreans).

Yes it is hard rubber,,, try a mud flap from an 18 wheeler truck or similar. It is possible that the reaction disk is still in the center barrel of the booster (where it should be)... have a good look in. Philip

you may have to hold the linkage (throttle valves) open more when someone else cranks

If you can't change springs weights and advance limit stops in your after market then just get the right ZX distributor: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/51563-vacuum-advance-triples.html#post450025 Check out these posts by Lazeum too...he knows!: https://www.google.ca/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+%22Lazeum%22+%22advance%22&oq=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+%22Lazeum%22+%22advance%22&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.20335j0j4&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

Pics here : https://www.google.ca/search?q=reaction+disk+site:www.classiczcars.com&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Gs0XU9q-OuzH0gGEtICgDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1137&bih=570&dpr=0.9

You can cut a new one from thick rubber and glue it on the rod. Take a look at rubber door mats and door stoppers/bumpers if there is no supplier of rubber stock sheeting in your area.

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