madkaw

Surgery has killed my chance. Not healing as quick as I thought and I can’t work on my car much right now. I’ve actually hired some help to keep things going. It’s killing me that I can’t go with it this close. Very slight chance I’d drive down in another car, but that wouldn’t be as fun.

More progress - finally I am satisfied with the combustion chambers and head in general , so time to measure . MN47 are said to have 39cc chambers , but I beg to differ. 41.2 cc right now with bigger valves and head surfaced at least .015. I did unshroud the chambers which I gained some there, but it wasn’t a lot. No cam picked out yet , but I have springs. I will still probably drill and tap the coolant passages on 2-6 cylinders . The marks are there already , so I’ll just finish what Nissan started.

What’s the spark plug look like on that carb? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Checked all fasteners are tight? O-rings in good shape? Enrichment valve closed(choke)?

Looking for a good core . It must be known as a good core if I’m going to pay for shipping thanks

I have all my trim blacked out on my car. I have the cheapy MSA covers that have actually lasted pretty long, and they have just the rubber trim. In a perfect world I’d like to have better lens held in with a better rubber seal. I could picture these with painted trim !

Will there be any option to get lens and frame ( not chromed) . I would love to have a pair that I could black out the frame.

I think your gear change is what will be the most effective in transforming acceleration in general. Theres a guy on Hybridz that sells an adapter ring to mount a 350z flywheel. The stock ones are Chrome Molly and come in at 16lbs I believe . It’s a 250mm surface so that’s an improvement also. I think it’s Godzilla Raceworks . The flywheel has the correct bolt pattern and the adapter is nothing more than a shim. I believe the 350z flywheels are reasonably priced I run a lightened 240mm flywheel, but not many places do that service anymore

With regard to dropping oil pan . I would take off valve cover and see how bad it looks under there. It’s pretty easy to determine whether there was neglect as far as oil changes . If the the oil is caked or baked everywhere or there is sludge build up , then maybe dropping oil pan is worth it. Heres a pic of a 73 oil pan I did. The valve area looked sludgy and suspected the worst .

Just did this. Rock auto, Z car depot and MSA have the switch. It’s about 35$. Biggest issue I had was replacing the small 5/16” formed hose that carried the coolant to the valve. If the rest of your EGR system is there and working then I’d say fix this. A lot of connected parts to the EGR system, so delete one part , you might as well delete all- but that’s a lot more work

Painting trim is no different then painting any other part on the car. Properly prepped it should last. I went with powder coating on all metal pieces - and I mean all. I even powder coated the windshield trim. No issues with it holding up and black would be easy to touch up.

I’m wanting that cam myself, so this will be interesting. I’m tempted to go the cheap route and pull the Isky cam out of my 2.4, but I want to keep that motor a runner

A drill will actually spin the oil pump up to 50+ psi cold, but a drill probably is doing 2000rpm minimum . Cranking is less than 10 psi so it will only be a dribble. If it squirts with a drill - then your probably be okay . Start it with the valve cover off and clean up the mess later

I read a lot of rubbing issues on the outer lip, but not much is mentioned about the rear inner fender well. I found that I could clear the lip but the rear tire would rub up inside the well on hard bumps with the car loaded. I cheated in every way to get my 17x8.5 +4 offsets to clear. Including in the cheating was actually changing rear camber by slotting the strut mounting holes. I run 225/45/17 and I bet I could get 235/45/17 in there too. So I can see how if the diameter is kept down you can get 245 in the rear. I actually ran 245 all the way around first time and the fronts cleared - barely. The 245’s just rubbed too much in the rear to keep on there. Camber in the back will gain you some room. Positive offset on the rear would allow for bigger meats , but too much positive up front it will rub the strut . I actually flattened the strut perch on the wheel side to clear my WHEELS. Being 17” the wheel rim is on the same height as the spring perch, so adjusting spring perch( with hammer) actually helped. A smaller wheel would have a tire lined up with the perch and it would flex, so might not work

All the down drafts I’ve worked on - Holley , etc... the accelerator pump squirted with ANY movement of the throttle . It should be very sensitive to throttle input . I’d start there since it’s the easiest and cheapest

Didn’t mean jack this thread Charles

Nope - just parts replacement

Did you hear back from them

Got my meds .

http://www.pwrsteering.com/brake.html This might be the folks I used. Reasonable pricing for a rebuild . I’d specify that you will do exterior cosmetics .

I’m sore now - so can’t wait for tomorrow .

Today

Charles, I had a 73 rebuilt here in Indiana. I’ll do a little researching to see if I can find the receipt. I doubt I have it , but maybe can search and remember the name. He claimed that he could cross reference Bendix numbers. It did work great when I got it back

I get it -lol

Well almost finished with this project . Interior is done as much as I’m doing . Also buffed out a fender just to see what I could get out of this neglected paint job. The owner will probably be upset because I won’t have the time or strength to do the rest of the buff . Disc replacement surgery Monday . If there’s any work that will tear up a back it’s running a buffer for several hours . I wanted the owner to see what he could do with this survivor- though I think this is a re- spray . Color doesn’t match and it looks like there’s two layers of paint . It will make a good 10 footer for sure . Of course the important detail is that this car is almost rust free( some small surface areas, no pitting . The dash cover is a Accu Form , which I thought was made pretty well. Fit pretty damn well right from the start. Just some gentle massaging .

I used the Tank inc for my EFI Z. So far very happy with the results. Tank Inc version does require cutting into a tank. The Holley mat would probably eliminate posssibility of cavitation, but I have yet to starve my motor out yet and I run it low on gas a lot.