madkaw

I run the BWT -5 with 3.90 gears. 1st gear is mostly useless . In 4th it’s not bad, but I have a cammed motor. My motor just starts to smooth out at 3500+ rpm. I’m just starting to get in my power band. Like to have taller 1st and 2nd gears , but makes for a very quick launch.

I’ve considered new strut rubber mounts solely for the reason of NVH. After years of abuse I would think the rubber gets work hardened and brittle and does not absorb the road noise as well. How much can we ask from 45 year old rubber parts ? One reason I have NOT gone the coil over design is because of the pillow mount which eliminates the rubber cushion . These cars ride harsh enough with stiffer springs and shocks , then connect everything without rubber - eek. I guess it depends on your usage . I’m looking for more refinement in my ride and still have it sporty . I’ve considered new strut mounts to help with this. As far as OEM vs aftermarket , a 100$ difference for 4 items I can do . Ideally I’d like adjustable Koni and all new rubber with my ST Springs . Camber can be achieved by slotting the mounting holes for the insulators , but some might not feel comfortable with that.

Have you run the engine enough to pull the plugs and look? Terrapin has a good point. Had the same issue of one carb being lean( equals 3 cylinders) . Not sure if you are running a vacuum advance or not, but if she’s real lean and not enough timing she’s going to balk.

This pic jars my memory

You should have my number if you want to talk about it.

Make sure you get your old (unusable) ones back.

#retiredlife. I am tired from working on being retired .

I didn’t think your door cards were that bad a shape ! Maybe I didn’t look close . Good luck

Maybe the cam had been dropped at one time and was cracked - and it finally gave out.

That part went well!

It’s funny how you need to get to work when you retire from work!-lol! I can’t keep up with retirement .

Lots of meat on that header flange . I might consider a little sanding on the thermostat housing . I believe I had to trim the gasket too

Can’t believe this thread is 4 years old. Man I’m slow. I did order a cam today for the build . Potter Racing cam! Once I have it in hand I can actually start the rest of the assembly. Need to work out lash pads once cam is here, then check PVC - hope that works out well -eek! Meanwhile the 3.2 block gets a bath so I can drop the crank in!

Keep in mind that unit(s) are not light to move around. I bet the 5000 model weighs in at 75-80 pounds per ramp. I have the 3500 and I am pretty pleased . I paid much more for my 3500, so the price is good. Biggest issue is lowering of ramps has to have weight on it . So if you raise a car and then put on stands it’s a bit of a pain to lower the ramps. Also not a big fan of using the pinch welds because you have to line up everything perfect . Maybe the longer 5000 will be better than the 3500 I have. The 3500 definitely has to be set just right to raise the car on the pinch seams . I’m considering welding an attachment for using the frame .

Retired - sorry ?

Anyone know for sure if the s-30 roof structures are all the same? I know things changed down below, but not sure about roof. Depending on what you consider as a roof component , the shoulder belt attachment would be different - would it not? Forward of the shoulder harness attachment I think everything is identical. I will be studying this for obvious reasons. I am working with a friend - who owns a body shop and has been in the biz for 40 years.

An hour or sooooooooooooooooooooooo

I’d say at today’s market you did alright- ESPECIALLY delivered . They look super clean- congrats

Just do the megasquirt. There’s a vendor on Hybridz that sells a nice package deal that’s about plug and play . Then you can do what you want and have a programmable fun. You could buy a wideband and try to get what you can out of the stock EFI , but it will never be as good as updated ECU.

I have the push button hydraulic brake - wish I could trust it -lol

Unless you are worried about matching numbers, good used motors laying around for less than 1k. Those guys doing engine swaps about give away stock L28’s

Interesting - but makes sense . Cold engine needs more fuel.

I am using megasquirt - so I have a distinct advantage to tune my EFI. But I have read of guys who have success with a tweak here and there and can run stock EFI with a bigger cam. The cam really wakes these motors up, but power is addicting. The stock motors (L28’s) are all in at 5000, so a cam does wonders. Since it’s been reported that the stock EFI does fudge on the rich side at wide open throttle, someone could get away with more power with the stock EFI. Going carbs changes everything . Lots of info on EFI upgrades . EDI has come a long way

I agree with all of this except the cam perception. It’s not the cam that makes for poor idle as much as the ability to tune. My 490/290 cam probably isles as good as a stock engine , but I have the ability to tune it. OEM EFI doesn’t allow tuning, but I think you can get away with some cam mods which do wonders for these motors .

Running good goes to my point, but I understand the -while I’m there might as well. There’s also curiosity and the - I want to rebuild a motor -feeling too. Good luck and there’s always help here