gnosez

The most problem-some step is the removal of the retainer clips which I just cut off since the weatherstripping adhesive will hold the 2 halves together. The old adhesive can be made more compliant with an application of heat (hair dryer or heat gun) as you try and separate the 2 halves. Remember to replace the small felt block.

It also helps to bolt up the tranny mount so the tunnel stays in the same shape as it would under normal conditions. If not you can end up with a too wide or narrow tunnel. The seat brackets for 240s can be purchased as an aftermarket item from: www.baddogparts.com

Thanks, Arne. I will order up the necessary parts and come spring rebuild my own rack.

Has anyone purchased a reman steering rack for a 240 lately and if so can you describe your experience (include the name of the company and any issues or insights)? I can get the inner and outer tie rods for just under $300. or get a whole reman rack for the same price. If the racks are junk then I'm wasting time and money.

I must have confused them by asking for just the inners as they only sell the inners and outers together as one unit. Thanks, I call them tomorrow morning. Now for the price of both sides I can get these or a rebuilt rack. I've heard both good and bad stories about the remand racks but my rack is 35 yrs old. No clear cut answer is forth coming so I'm off to bed......

Yeah, if I had more money when Dave was building my engine I might have been inclined to go the EFI w/individual throttle bodies but adding in those costs and an engine management system would mean having a great running and higher hp motor but no suspension or brakes. I'm on the fence about buying the box (I have their intake and linkage set-up) and will see how the overall cost of my replacements and upgrades for '07will run before ordering one.

Those are the bellows not the inner rods. Only one side is sold for the inners, hence the problem.

Yeah, looking at that TWM box is what got me to call Dave. The price is awesome too, however.

I agree that the difference uses (street vs track) will/would indeed make a CAI more attractive. My earlier post was in response to a question I had asked Dave recently. I was passing this on. No offense was intented. I do really like your box (no pick-up line intented either).... So two questions. 1) Having access to a metal fab shop would you share plans for the box (perhaps a barter of some parts - www.baddogparts.com - I know the owner)? 2) What is the line coming/going to the individual intake legs? I run a common tube for my brake booster since one leg doesn't generate enough vacuum. Is this what you are doing?

Actually bjhines, the person who I quoted saying that a heat shield and a duct bringing in cold air vs a "cold air box" works just as well if not better, was Dave Rebello. I'll stick with his advise, even if he is talking off the deep end since he got me 319hp@crank out of my 3.2L w/44mm Mikunis. That fabricated box looks great and would indeed be a pain to build. I will add the heat shield, put in the ducting, fab up a semi enclosed box, re-install my O2 sensors, dyno and re-jet the carbs. I'll post the results in the spring after I take the car back out on the track.

Nissan no longer stocks or has any inner tie rods for 240s and you can only get one side from the aftermarket suppliers. Where do I get the other side? The other option is to buy a complete rack but a search reveals that many are no better than the 30 year old ones they would replace. I did read where someone installed both (left?) sides but that meant that the threads on one of the inner tie rods would spin in the direction of wheel travel. I assume this is not a good idea. This is the time of year I start ordering parts for repair and upgrades, so any assistance would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance......

The "hood, special hinge" for gnose applications are available as a reproduction part from www.baddogparts.com

I was looking at the TWM cold air induction box myself earlier this week as I was thinking of replacing my ITG single filter on my triple 44mm Mikunis and called Rebello to see what they thought. They believe that the cold air box will become a warm-hot air box over time and without a heat shield it will only trap more hot air in front of the carbs. They suggested a better heat shield (good for 5-10 rwhp) and a cold air duct leading to the carbs. Of course I will need to rejet the carbs and dyno the engine with the hood open. A little metal, an assortment of jets, and some duct work will do as opposed to spending over $350. on a cold air box. Thanks Dave....

Must be the George Foreman electric grill......

Hi - the Z Car Club of New England (www.zccne.org) would like to welcome you back into the Z car fold. Sign up for the forum - membership is not required. There are more than two dozen 240 owners within a 2 hour drive of your location. PM or email me: john@baddogparts.com

Try Summit or any other racing parts website. Your local auto electrical or speed shop might have them too. Quality is what you want so stay away from the autozones, etc. for this one. Mine is located in the firewall just between and down from the hatch plate and the linkage arm pivot. That way I can get at it while opening the hood. I take it out as an added theft-prevention devise. From a bad battary experience I switched to a 24F (positive post is no longer under the body cross member) battary. You'd need to get new cables for that. A worthwhile upgrade.....

Besides being too heavy, too TT like, too underpowered, and so unlike what Ford managed to do with the new Mustang, you have to ask yourself just one question; "In 30 years will the 350 be as loved as the 240 is today?" Maybe that should be the poll question instead........

Bad Dog Parts makes single point jack plates that weld onto the middle of the rocker panel allowing you to jack both wheels off the ground at the same time without bending or crushing any body parts.

Well said. The 350 may be a great driving car but any genes it might have in common with an S30 is that the same company made them. That Ford could make a 2006 vehicle that actually looks like a Mustang is a cradit to their design department. Though the rear end needs work.

the answer is in the title.....

Sorry that I was away the past few weeks or I could have driven a few miles and inspected the car for you. My observations based on the limited pics show the dash to be cracked, with carpets for a tunnel cover, with more rust than shown (a side view pic would help to determine the condition of fenders, doors and rockers)., no engine bay pics, crushed rear bumper, and who knows what shape the wiring is in. I'm sure this has been brought up before but how about a list of Z people by State that potential buyers could contact to go over and look at a Z like this for them before they make a purchase and/or mistake. Even some better pics and an on-site set of eyes can mean the difference between getting the Z you want and the piece of junk you'd spent hundreds of dollars shipping across country. When I got my latest 240 via the internet I contacted a local Z car club and had them look at it for me. I donated some money to the club for their efforts. Sign me up for New England.....

Yikes, I had to click to another screen when my wife walked in the room as those pics were orgasmic. Three Toyo GTs in one place! Those GTRs and Gnoses!! The freaking sway meet parts pics were totally uncalled for. Now I need those imagines to go away if I'm to get any sleep tonight.....

Gas is lighter than water so if you got any water in your tank it has to be drained from the bottom too since that's where the pickup is for the fuel line. I had this happen about 5 weeks ago so I have more experience than I needed. Drain the fuel, put in dry gas, put in some good gas, drain the fuel. Put in more clean fuel, now disconnect the fuel line before the filter in the engine bay and run the pump until tha gas runs clear. Repeat at other points along the way until you get as far as (in your case) the injectors. Replace all filters. Put in new gas and some more dry gas, then try running the engine.

I have at least one but I'd need to check on which side it was. PM me.

Non-stock set-up: coil-overs 250f/275r spring rates camber plates 2.7 degrees negative-front/2.0 rear 24 1/4 - left front (225X45X16) 24 3/8 - right front (" ") rear wells have been rolled out so hard to tell but 24 3/4- left and 25 (245X45X16) - right all equal with me in car and 1/2 tank of gas At rocker (front at half-moon to bottom of rocker (not lip): 5 3/4 and rears before front of wheel well 6.0, all +/- 1/8 right to left) At 6.5 qt oil pan: less than 5 inches Not a daily driver but driven (hard) 5,000 miles or more a year (a New England year that is....)