Daniel

IN the rear lift by the rear end housing.In the front lift by the big frame looking thing that crosses left to right.Mine has a steel plate welded at about center.If you use your factory jack, postition it at the little notch that is behind the front wheel.and infront of the rear wheel at the bottom of the rocker panel.You should be concerned. The death of many a Z was because someone lifted it by the floor pans. That is where the rust demon would enter due to scratches and tears. Have Fun!! Daniel

Get yourself some rust killer.NAPA has it .They call it EXTEND.It looks like milk going on.It changes the chemical composition of the rust.It drys black.On extreme rust it drys a deep purple.You can paint over or leave it.It will never rust there again. Have fun!! Daniel

Good morning Guy, may I suggest you look at the Z garage, link #4 on this homepage.Then look under rebuild and scroll down to cooling.I believe you'll find this of interest. Daniel

Sounds like your points/condensor are not working therefore not allowing your coil to saturate.Check point grounds in distributor also.My grandfather would say don't leave that switch in that position you'll burn the points up(I wanted radio).It never happened to me but,maybe you found that exact position needed to damage them. Have fun!! Daniel

My first choice was just like 2mz's" stolen".Since that guess was taken I'd like to buy a few vowels and say perhaps "stone 'might mean firestone? Daniel

I have a friend that says the only thing he wants thats used is money. Daniel

I would still have the radiator checked out by shop.You would hate doing the job only to develop a problem such as a leak or the addition of rust/sediment from the used rad.Unless your fan clutch is bad I wouldn't replace it.Who knows yours may be the better part.The water pump usually leaks out of the "weep"hole in the unit as a sign that repair is needed.No leak,no problem.I think it will fit but yours must be removed anyway,right?Just put them side by side and compare.Only after having the radiator shop inspection would I install it.Myself,I stay away from used parts if I can.When you consider the last new unit lasted 30+ years thats not bad.Do it correct the first time and move on to something else.Used parts can trick you into thinking you are saving money,until you are installing your second or third used or you are on the side of the road because it was a "good deal"!The plastic fan has been baking in radiator heat for years.You know how dry plastic cracks and shatters.Guess what I would do.There 's a pattern developing here!! Have fun!! Daniel

Since we are just guessing if the vents are needed.I suggest wait and see.Should you get stopped in traffic on a hot day and start to overheat,just pop the"bonnet" to let the heat escape and prove a vent would be adequate for the task.The safety latch will hold it and unless your going backwards about 100 mph it won't fly open.Of course the frequency that you had to do that and results would determine the need or not for the vents. Have fun!! Daniel

Want me to think on Monday morning huh?I'll try.If the speed of the car was enough to allow the spoiler to press the hatch down.Then yes.The fumes though seem to act like the water at the rear of a motor boat.Move forward and you're fine slow down a little and the wake catches up with the rear.Slowing down apparently causes a pressure differencial and the car sucks the exhaust in.My car is white and I could see exhaust caused discoloration up the entire left side of the hatch.So my though is the spoiler could maybe help at some unknown speed but,I wouldn't call it a fix.Maybe a small band-aid if anything.The correct fix is easier than a spoiler install and cheaper! HaveFun!! Daniel P.S. JC, The fumes are spent gas not raw fuel.

Rob and 2manyZ's are correct.You will know when and if you need the servo rebuilt.There is a place here in Charlotte that does them for $125.00.They do trucks as a main business.I would like to add that I was once told if it failed you would either get hard brakes(no power assist) and/or poor running engine due to vacuum leak.I restored a 71 that I had put all new wheel/master cyl.You could bleed the brakes all day and get no pedal.It had a bad servo but ,none of the standard symptoms.That was the only one I have ever seen be bad. Have fun Daniel!!

Well guys, for years I have been fighting the exhaust fumes in car especially when letting off the gas.I went to the mountains and the rumbling down the hill about killed me.It became a mission to resolve the problem.I knew my rear hatch gasket was the normal place to go.But,I had repalced that only 4or 5 years ago and the car stays in a garage.It was like new.I reglued suspect areas.Siliconed the hose grommets,tail light gaskets,floor drains,everything.Well the other day I found the fix.There are 2 screws behind the latch catch on the car .They hold the tag light .Removing those will allow access to the catch adjustment screws.They are behind the tag light,you can see them without removing anything.With the screws and tag light assembly out of the way close the hatch.loosen the screws and press down on the hatch.This will position the catch the tightest location.Tighten the screws.I don't know if my gasket shrunk or the adjustment just moved to start the fumes,but that sure fixed it!!!Note,since the push down places the catch at the top of the latch you can move the catch down a fraction before tightening.I hope this helps alot of people. Have Fun!! Daniel

some body shops have large suction cups.Perhaps you could pull the dent out enough to solve your problem.If not when the tank is out the fuel opening is large enough to allow you to insert a pipe or 2x4 to push it out. Have fun !!Daniel

Well,my pulley swap theory is no good.Seems if you swap the pulley making the alt. faster that in turn increases the strength of the magnetic field within the alt. That in turn puts more load on the engine which would effect your idle.Also having the additional load at idle could cause the alt. belt to slip as rpm's increased.There are other issues I won't bore you with.The bottom line is the alt.s magnetic field acts sort of like a clutch on a kids go cart and once again you need to think long and hard about trying to outsmart the datsun engineers.They know.

Perhaps we should have said your battery is now of questionable dependability.Once you boil it, you are on borrowed time.It still has the potiental for other problems as well.Its a rather safe than sorry deal. Daniel

Welcome the 240! Y ou have just ask the same first question we all did.The more rpm the brighter is a 240 thing.The specs for the alternator show it 's charging ability begins at 1000 rpms.You could increase your idle.Thats to high for me.I do have a theory I'm working on.I believe you could change the pully on the alt. to increase it's rpm without the cars rpm increasing. Daniel

Guy_geo, I wish to add to your radiator issue something we perhaps overlooked.You said your rad. was dry.FIRST! find the leak! It could be a loose clamp/split hose or leaking heater valve at worst a leak at your head gasket that gets in your oil.I doubt that but I realized I overlooked the basics.Also a bad rad.cap can allow a" leak"overflow enough to appear dry. The fan clutch should be tested.It is easy to spin by hand when the car is cold.When the car is normal temp ,and the carOFF!!You should NOT be able to move it easy(someone help me).I have used the flex fan for years and have no fan clutch.Although I still believe the info. in my earlier post to be a good thing at any time.I wouldn't like for you to go though the motions only to find the problem still there.Do it 'cause it's a good thing!! Have fun!! Daniel

I had no idea arizona laws were so tough on emissions!If you have a well tuned car.Dist cap,points,plugs,air filter,plug wires,carbsset correct,etc. you should pass.I talked to a buddy of mine(in arizona) days ago with a 74 MG.He had failed also.He was told by a local to add two quarts of denatured alcohol to a half tank of gas.He passed!!Maybe you can get some methanol at a racing go cart shop and try again.Although I suggest a major tune up as my first choice.It's always more fun when they run correctly.Let us know how it turns out. Have fun!! Daniel

I think 70 and 71 were vert. 72 and 73 horiz. I like the horiz. It makes the car look wider.As for repair,my 1990 300zx service manual has the procedure on page el-84.You use a dupont#4817 conductive silver.If you screw up it wipes off.My 240 manual refers to the same procedure and part #.It appears to be easy just time consuming.I would think your nissan dealer would have a manual with the info as it doesn't appear to have changed since 73 and is probably the same on all cars.If you can't find it let me know and we'll work it out. Daniel

Yes it overcharged and boiled.My thought s are it is the wire I mentioned or the volt reg.The battery is no good now.Wear safety glasses,better yet a face shield and cover your skin,wear gloves and get the battery out.Batteries can be real dangerous when they have been abused!! Daniel

The other item to check.The volt reg. has a plastic connector that mates with the wiring harness.The white wire turns the volt reg on and off.The connection on the harness side goes bad.If you have never had a volt reg a new one wouldn't hurt.I hate to just throw money a problem, but knowing its 30 years old if not todays problem it will probably be tomorrows.I would get that fixed fast.An overcharged battery can leak acid killing the metal it hits,the fumes will eat the paint from under your hood,it can explode. Daniel

Doug, Just remember those holes you cut to let heat out also let rain water in.That may not be a problem with you or perhaps you seldom get rain there, but I see it as a leaky roof that lets in moisture causing rust and making it difficult to keep the engine compartment clean.Just something to think about. Have fun!! Daniel

no problemo amigo(your welcome) Daniel

You will want to replace the thermo.They're cheap.You have to remove it anyway because while the rad. hoses are off you want to backflush the cooling system.That means run a garden hose with good high pressure from the top hose and let it run out the bottom.The coolant normally runs the other direction.The backflush is like if you rub a fish one way it smooth but backwards its rough.This gets the rough out.As for the need or not for three rows.The cost is not much more than 2. Cool is good.In the event of a waterpump/hose leak you have a little more "get home fluid".Trust me in the future odds are you'll say glad I did it before you say I regret it.Also please check previous post about thermo housing broken bolts it will save you alot of grief. Have fun!! Daniel

I used the word "backfire' because that the term you used.Although you have a muffler,you basically have a straight pipe exhaust.The resonator stopped some of that.My thinking is still backpressure.Ever hear a lawnmower without a muffler when you let off the gas,or a race car?Your old exhaust muted that.Your new one with thelarger diameter and free flow is a megaphone.There are other issues that can cause that ,but they would affect performance drastically.Since yours started with the new exhaust thats where I have to look.I'm not a fortune teller but I think I see a resonator install in your futureLOL . Daniel

That backfiring is called back pressure.Listen to the 18 wheeler as they let off the gas.Same thing. Daniel