Daniel

No the coil is just transformer.A couple of coils of wire. The fact you get a reading across both leads just means the wires between primary and secondary windings are good.When the points are closed it allows current flow thru the coil.when the points break the path of least resistance becomes the spark plugs and the coil" transforms"low voltage high ampre to high voltage low ampre the path of least resistance becomes the spark plugs.The rotor position in the dist. determines the cylinder that will become that path.The fact your car started and since it is new I thinkyour coil is good.You seem to have a poor ground path from you dist. to the battery.That path is dist.,block, to the location on the starter where your neg battery terminal attaches then battery.I hope this helps.The fix will be simple we just have to find it.Let me know if you give up.I don't want you to do so but,I'll stay online until then. Daniel

OK new game.It seems that when you replaced the point it ran.Thats good.It makes me think that moving/rescrewing that ground that looks good (NOT the worn wire the other one)had an effect.If you have scraped and cleaned both ends of that and still need the coil attached to get a ground path the only thing left is the battery neg.If you go from battery neg to the location it attaches to the starter do you get any voltage?If you do that needs cleaning at the starter end most likely but,both ends is a good thing.Usually The starter will be slow or not work at all when that happens.We need fresh clean connections.You can't look at them and say they look good.Those are the locations that hardly ever get touched.I wish it was here and we could work on it together.Don't get angry at the car.It's old .This is part of the game .You must be patient and learn the tricks.Feel good that you have help.When I walked in your shoes this was not available.It'll work out. Daniel

Ok I'm better now I checked on a dist spare I had and did not get cont. with the point open.That makes sense..It seems in the car it get a ground path that tricked me.I still think you lack a good ground in your dist as the coil connection has no effect on my readings.

First I stand corrected.I get full continuity 0ohms across everything in my dist. points open or closed.Unplugging my coil neg though hasNO EFFECT!!Still o ohms.That makes me wonder about the "good" ground wire in your dist.Since you just rescrewed one end when you replaced the points.Lets try this.Unscrew the other end and scrape the connector and where it seats.also while it is undone check cont. thru it.No need for the key on.It will shock you if you get between the points and the switch is on.

That worn wire is inside the dist right?The photo looks like it was perhaps smashed between the cap and dist..Probably just the photo.

At least it makes noise now!!Alway replace the condensor with the points.They don't normally go bad but when they do the points will suffer rapidly.Also make sure that wire with the bad insulation is not shorting out inside the dist.There should be no continuity between the dist base and that wirewith the points open.Thats why it attaches to that plastic insulator on the dist and the point.If it shorts the points are not even used as the ground path just runs through the dist. plate.Bad points could cause your plugs to foul over time as they do work together.tey to get the correct gap.Remember you're closer than you were!!!!Not to mention alittle wiser!! Have fun!! Daniel OH yeah make sure the plug wires are seated in the dist.cap when you replace it sometime the work loose during cap removal.Also the datsun book says a 60% power loss and poor running if the coil is wired backwards.Make sure the neg is going to the dist.

Just a guess but the power to your test lite may just be the dist.condensor discharging through your lite.If you don't have a feeler gauge the old shade way was to used a match book or business card to gap the point as a rough guess.Of course this is a temp measure.We want nothing less than correct.

From you photo it looks like the fiber piece that rides on the dist cam is worndown.Most of the ones I have used appear to have more meat on them but its hard to say.I would start by trying to adjust the point you have to correct gap and see if it starts.At least then you know your OK.Also another reason I remove the dist is to clean out all that dirt like you have.I would still remove and clean those grounds as I described.My guess is it was last done was sometime in the 70's huh?What about the age/status of your coil/plug wires?

O.K. the black coil wire is coil neg.It goes to the dist.The black/white is positive.The condensor on the coil is an effort to stop radio static noise,it has nothing to do with any function of the vehicle.As far as the point install,myself I remove the dist.(old worn out back, I don't bend like I used too.)On one side of the dist is the timing marks and pointer.NOTE THESE.On the other side is a single screw in a slot.Remove the screw and wiggle the dist up.These cars are great.An american car you must line up the timing gear.Not these.The dist bottom has a V shape and will only go back in the correct easy to do way.Remove the two point holding screws and replace.Turn the dist bottom until the cam in the center is at the high side of the lobe.Use the little slot with the screw in it and adjust the gap.0.45mm to 0.5mm.Tighten the holding screws and recheck gap.While your in there I like to use small wire brush or a razor blade and scrape those ground connectors and their mating surfaces.That way I know I have nice fresh surfaces.The condensor on the dist. is used to absorb some of the current that is looking for a place to go when the points seperate.When they go bad it causes the points to burnout and pit/weld.Of course as point wear they do pit as normal .When reinstalling put the rotor on and wiggle it to set the dist.Be very careful when removing that dist screw.These are notorious for breaking.I first tighten it A LITTLE!! then loosen a little then run it back down alittle.This in and out motion clears the threads and will save you alot of grief.Set the timing back to where it was and reconnect stuff.If you don't feel good about dist.removal you can get the points on the lobe by putting the car in 4th gear and rocking it back and forth.

check your points.If they are burnt or worn out /bad gap/stuck closed etc.Then your coil cannot saturate.As for the ballast resistor you can wire across it as a test.When you turn the key to the start position it sends 12v to the coil.When released and in the run position it uses another wire that runs through the ballast resistor to drop the voltage and save the life of the coil.A short test won't hurt it.All that resistor is is a strip of stainless steel.Also check the small ground wire inside the dist.You'll see it when you look at the points.Its about an inch+/- long.Make sure it has good clean no oxidized connection.NO !!THE POSITIVE IS THE TWO WIRE(now you know why) Have fun!!! Daniel

Basic electric lesson.It will travel the path of least resistance.Once you have built up enough carbon(insulator)on the electrodes Mr. electric will determine a single path of least resistance.The factory designed that engine and tested it using ngk.It's hard to beat those guys in the brain department.Bosch are for german cars.NGK for japanese.My old chevy is AC.

I had a similiar thing once and it was my fuel filter.At time of running large amounts of fuel it SOMETIMES stirred up enough sediment to starve the car.Idle was enough,When the car sat long enough the sediment dispursed until the next time.A fuel tank dip and clean and new tank to engine compartment fuel line resolved mine.I hope your is only an old filter.There are clear filter units at any auto store that allows you to see what your pumping. Have fun!! Daniel.

Simple test.Put a jumper wire across the two wires that are attached to your sending unit.With your switch on does the gauge go to full max?If it does then the problem is the sending unit..It's probably got rust/sediment on the float arm and or the area the contact travels on.The sending unit is easily removed by turning the ring at the unit.Of course you want to have low fuel.Shake the unit and listen for fuel in the float.That would limit its travel .There is an adjustment screw on the sending unit should all be well with the unit.Perhaps age has caused increased resistance in the path from sending unit to gauge or the connectors at the tank need cleaning.I rub a little oil on the rubber gasket to aid reinstall and prevent tearing.The fact that your gauge moves and is stable not floating around I believe it is good. Have fun!! Daniel

Firewall stuff is the same.Im sure you're aware your air cleaner won't switch over.I think there is a kit to allow you to use the flat top air cleaner on the round.The rumor is you need those horn looking things that are on stock air cleaners.Something about improved air flow for better atomization of fuel.Most of the aftermarket I have seen are just flat against the carbs.Not good.I also suggest while the choke cables are undone try this trick.Cut a plastic drinking straw in half.Slip it slightly over the cables and duct tape it . Use a coathanger or such and hang them from the latch on your opened hood.Add alittle oil to the straws.The next morning after gravity has done its work the cables will move easier than you thought possible!

I would try a boat cover/awning maker.The canvas would not hold moisture and be very durable.If it was painted the tank color you choose,that would limit any freying.They probably have strips near the width you need they use as tie straps.Those won't frey.Have fun Daniel

There is a trick that won't stop a virus but,will stop the spread.1st-open your address book and click new person/contact,like you do when adding a new friend to your email.2nd-In the window where you put the first name enter !000(exclamation and 3 zero's) Email address=WormAlert.The software may respond that the address is invalid or such but just continue.3rd-click add and OK.Now !000 will be the first(top)address.If you get a virus,it will try to send itself to !000 first.It will fail andstop then send you a message that reads"WormAlert could not be delievered"You now know you have a virus but your friends are safe.It also gives piece of mind cause when hoax's come around you don't delete something that was not a virus.

Why when something is broken people say it is "out of whack" but when it's repaired they don't say Oh good,"it's back in whack !" Why do they print -Do not eat- on the silica packs thats parts are shipped in.Was there once a moron that said,lets see, datsun sent me a nice new part-and look a snack!!

Yes,It's a z thing.People close the doors by grabbing thetop and the pressure causes the crack. Daniel

Myself I have found wd40 to be kids stuff.Liquid wrench is what you want to soak them in.Also note very carefully how the linkage came off.Years ago I took mine out and on replacement decided that it really didn't make any difference.Brand new paint job,starts to sprinkle,I hit the wiper switch,wipers take off across my hood!! OUCH!!!Brand new scratch!!:eek: :sick: Daniel

I have seen incorrect/dirty air filter cause that problem.Remove your air cleaner for a test and give it arun.

I recommend starting with the connectors at the fuel tank sending unit.Make sure they are clear of oxidation and are making good connection.There are two connectors.Use an alligator clip type jumper wire to hold/short the two together and ground the other end of the jumper.The gauge should go to full max. and hold there .Next,if needed remove the sending unit(of course low fuel,safety in mind)and make sure the travel of the sending unit arm is not being limited by rust/corrosion and that the float is not holding fuel and causing false readings.It works like a toilet float.You will see the contact path on the unit.Again it should be clean and smooth travel.Hook up your wires and test your gauge readings.I can't remember if you need to ground the sending unit housing,but you'll know.I would try to make any corrections from the sending unit.There is a set screw that allows you to move the float arm without having to bend it. Once inside the dash gauge you would have no way to verify your changes without reassembly and reinstallation.Also they put heavy duty adhesive inside the gauge to lock the factory setting.It can be difficult to break loose,this would be a last resort.Put a little oil on the rubber seal at the sending unit to aid in reinstall.It stops it from binding and tearing Have fun!! Daniel

I agree with 2mz's.The neat thing about a Z dist. is it will only go back in correctly.Its fool proof.Remove the two screws at the dist base at the block.Remove dist cap vacuum line and wire from dist.Wiggle it loose.It's very easy.It also makes it very easy to change/set points and condensor.Vise grips will remove the bad screw.Again be careful not to snap it.Be gentle Daniel

loosen the single screw that is across from the timing a/r indicator plate to make your adjustments.The two screws 2mz is refering to are for dist. removal.They would move the entire dist. including the a/r plate making the reference invalid.Be gentle on that screw as it is one that breaks easy if it hasn't been moved for awhile.Working it back and forth usually aids in breaking it loose.

Almost sounds like vapor lock.Is it a bucking type judder?Were you sitting still a long time on a hot day?Was the fix to run it on the open road a while or just park it for a couple of hours? Daniel

I have done two ATK replacements in two Zcars.One was 15years ago. One 10 years.Both still perform excellent,never a moments problem.They're the only way to go. Daniel