Bambikiller240

Chief McTwitch Guess I'm with ChrisA on this one.

Gran Turismorator You scored -24%

IIRC, someone found a post on zcar.com that claimed that it worked on Z's. (probably started there by the eBay seller of these thangs)

About a year and a half ago when I was shopping for weatherseals, I called or emailed everyone I could find on the internet that offered seals for 240Z's including "datsunrestore.com" (which is actually "Too Intense Restoration" aka Troy Thacker) and every one of them who would give the manufacturers name indicated that it was from PRP (Precision Replacement Parts). That was about 80% of the people that I contacted. FYI, some of what Troy sells is made by or for him, at least in terms of upholstery, shift boots, e-brake boots, etc. I have found (in the past) that if he doesn't specify that an item is "Nissan OEM" you had better ask rather than assume. That is not meant as a slam to Troy, it's just my observation from past dealings with his company.

I'm not supposed to use names, ...........but Yeah, that's him. "Huggy Bear"

Ed: The people I talked with indicated that the rubber used to make the PRP seals did not seem to be as compliant (soft) as the OEM seal material. They thought that was themain problem. $487 seems high for the PRP kit. Was that price on their site or somewhere else? You could buy a lot of OEM seals for that $$$.

As far as I know there are only two "suppliers" of weatherseals for 240Z's. 1. OEM Nissan 2. Precision Replacement Parts ( http://www.prp.com/prp/ ) These people make and distribute the non-OEM seals and kits sold by MSA, Vic Brit, Too Intense, ZTherapy, and everyone else that I've heard of. I will always spend the money for OEM. ALWAYS. Especially for Door Seals. I've heard too many complaints about problems with closing the doors after installing PRP seals. A few people have claimed to have no problems, but many more have related serious issues. It's not worth the gamble for me.

Back in the day I used to win cases of beer from some people that I went to college with by getting them to bet that I couldn't get 2 - 8 foot long 2" by 4"'s completely inside my Z. It isn't as small of a car as people think.

Ahem, Isn't this the pot calling the kettle...........? :tapemouth

Operator error or faulty bleeding equip are likely causes. Try a search of our site using "bleeding brakes" or "Brake bleeding". The proper procedure has been discussed many times. FWIW, Consider investing in Speed Bleeders for your car. Simple, no hassle, one man brake bleeding. (Do a search on "Speed Bleeders" also)

27 MM Socket / Wrench

I'm 6' 2" and have no problems.

Be Careful, I think that nail polish remover might eat or discolor the plastic. I've tried it on a couple of different materials and it seems to be pretty tough on plastics.

hls30.com is probably expecting me to contribute so I offer these..............

They just snap into the back of the gauges. Getting to them is a bitch. Unless you have spaghetti arms, and eyes on the ends of your fingers. If I was going to do what you plan, I'd pull the entire dash out to do it. Just My $.02

Bad Elecrical portion of the Ignition switch? (on the back of the lock assembly)

From the 2002 Blackhawk Datsun Show. After getting an Autograph from Mr. K, was one of the highlights of the show

I've had success with putting the transmission in 4th gear, setting the E-brake HARD, and then using a socket and long breaker bar. It doesn't always work, but almost every time I've done it worked. If it doesn't work .....then find an Impact gun.

The problem may be in finding a line w/ nuts short enough for this application. Of course, you can bend the tubing into a corkscrew to use up the "inches" that you don't need. I had to do that on a line to the RF brake caliper once. If you are interested in having a Stainless Steel (or even a Mild steel) line made up (or ever need other lines made up, there are two places I've done business with that provide good service and quality workmanship: Classic Tube Inline Tube You send them your damaged line, they return it and a new exact duplicate line.

I've never seen the flare nuts sold separately (at least not in the last 10 years). As Victor says, if you kill the nut, it's best to replace the line. The brake master cylinder lines are (were last time I checked) still available from Nissan and weren't too expensive. Best way to remove them is with a small pair of Vice-Grips and lots of penetrant. NOT WD-40 ! ! Use something like PB Blaster, or my favorite, Kroil; and a lot of care. Apply some anti-seize to the threads (only) before reinstallation

The people who are most knowledgable about this stuff are at www.hybridZ.org. While there are a few V8 Z car people here, the club is mostly comprised purists who stick with original Nissan equipment.

I hope not. The pic of your car is one (huge) reason I can't understand the effort to make this POS work in an application is was not intened to be used in.

FUSE? Fuses can look good and still be bad. Pull them and test with an Ohm-meter. Cost about $.50 to put in a new fuse and eliminate that as a possible cause of your problem.

Mike, I think my response is being seen with more "ferocity" than I intended. I was just pointing out the reasons / facts as I see them. Indeed to each his own. The only ferosity I have in this area is shadetree mechanics (I don't recall any of us being ASE certified, or professional auto mechanics and yet disagreeing with the wisdom of the manufacturer, and professional mechanics who serviced these cars. Who had many problems with these things, even to the point where they issued service buletins, and dealers illegally replaced the Flats with Rounds when their "professional" mechanics could not resolve the customer complaints. It's not just a bunch of "shadetree" mechanics who have low opinions of these carbs. The manufacturer didn't like them either. That's it, that's all I was trying to get across. If they work good for you (or anyone else), great. My first Z was a 73 and had Flats on it. I didn't have any reliability issues, and performance was fine (but I had nothing to compare against). When I rebuilt my 71 Z (using the 73 Z motor) I switched to Rounds, and I noticed a marked difference in the seat of my pants, and the smile on my helmeted face. Originality is something I understand and value, but that wasn't what Shane4golf seemed interested in. F.I. (properly set up) certainly should out perform either carb. Peace?