Bambikiller240

It might also be the Transmission. Better rebuild that too while you're at it!! Carl

You didn't mention any alterations to the car, but I'm wondering......Have you recently changed the car to an internally regulated altenator? If so, did you install the diode needed for this modifuication to work correctly. carl

That is what I was thinking as well. Even the Euro (clear) lens sold by Troy at Too Intense Resto are mounted in the standard location below the bumper/headlights in the corner pieces of the front valance. Carl

Inf: Hopefully the Reverse switch IS installed, otherwise there is a open hole in the side of your transmission that will allow gear oil to fly out of the box, and allow dirt and grime to enter it. Look under the car, passenger-side of the transmissionn near the fill plug about an inch or two forward is the reverse switch (or the hole it goes into). All you need to install it is a wrench of the apropriate size. As far as the connections, I don't believe it matters which of the two wires on the switch connect to the two wires from the main wiring harness. Factory service manuals are available from Andy Russell in Chandler, AZ for about $75.00 You can contact him at Z@datsundude.com Sometimes you can find a used one on eBay for less, but they are usually kinda mangled up. Two 14mm bolts hold the seatbelt retractor in the pocket. remove them and you can pull out the mechanism and perhaps see what is wrong. Transmission shifter bushings (a 3-piece set) are available from dealers and from Motorsport Auto in Los Angeles. AIR they are about $10 for a set. They'll make a WORLD of difference in how the shifter feels to you. Good Luck!

Gav240z, So where's the picture? Is your dog invisable? or a pretend dog?

If all it took was a race on TV to stop you from bidding, you must not have wanted this "gem" very badly.

with all oif these bizarre snack ideas, one must ask...............are you people PREGNANT? Pickles and Peanut butter (and tomatoes)? I smell a "bun in the oven"!!!

(99% snip by carl) Hi Burt: If the symptoms started after installing the clock, I'd have to agree with the others who say that it (or it's installation method) is the culprit. IF possible, I'd disconnect it and see if the symptoms go away. If you want a clock that looks like an original 240Z clock, but operates like a quartz clock, the contact info below might be something to look into. He uses 240Z clocks and converts them to a quartz movement internally. More reliable and I believe that he warrenties what he sells. zclock4u@aol.com Ron Bradley PO Box 3001 Seal Beach, Ca. 90740-2001

I can understand the satisfaction one would derive from turning this "lump" into a work of art. You'd have to get a lot of satisfaction from the result, because it would be a HUGE undertaking. Time AND $$$$$. I hope somebody saves it from the crusher.

The auction decription starts out: "Hubby describes this car as "barn fresh". This Cali guy describes it as P.O.S.!!! :devious:

It's not? Where's my sunglasses? Carl

As far as I know, it was given to members of the press corps when the 350Z was introduced, and is now only available to buyers of the car. Anyone else have info on the book?

Except that the way it is done (or can be) now doesn't affect handling. When done correctly you end up with almost perfect 50/50 weight distribution and a car that screams. Just ask Pete Paraska. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html

Not at all. Completely independant of the spring and compression there of.

Brian: Is your fan a metal one or the plastic variety. The reason I ask is that I've never heard of a plastic one failing before this sad story.

Smokey: The 260Z came with the same crappy "boat anchor" (flat-top" carburetors as the 73 240Z. Most people replace those carbs with either the early type "Round-Top" SU's or Webbers (which it looks like the green car has) Basically it would be the same car as a 73. HOWEVER, The 72 and earlier 240Z's had a higher compression cylinder head and developed more horsepower that the 73's (and 74's); and the pre 73 bodies were slightly lighter in weight than the 73/74 bodies. Other than the above, the differences are largely cosmetic.

Children are Great.............Barbequed - W.C. Fields

I'd rather have the 260Z, from the limited info you posted on the other car Regarding the V8 Z, need more information than just a picture. There are several methods to installing a V8, and QUALITY of the work can vary significantly. I'd do a LOT of research on how the car was modified, and the quality of the work before I'd buy a V8 Zcar. PS The farther back towards the firewall that the engine is located, the better handling and (weight distributon) will be. The best method is said to be the "Jags That Run" installation method. That one gets the engine as close to the firewall as possible and is said to be superior to any other design for adding a V8 to a Z car. The outer body on the V8 Z looks nice in the picture (from a distance), but you need much more info to make a wise decision.

If it is just "brown water (i.e. not THICK brown water) it could be rust. Rust is corroded metal, it will color the water, but will not combine with the water to form "sludge" If what you are finding is "gooey", "sticky", "slimey" thick gunk; you have found water and oil emulsified. Probably a head gasket or cracked head situation as mentioned by 2Many.

Geez whiz, I thought that sub-species of woman was extinct!! Hasn't been one sighted around these parts in quite some time! Quick, someone grab a net, I'll unlock the zoo! :stupid:

Doesn't cost much to drain it and refill. 90wt Gear Oil ---brand of your choice

Would you like Fries with that?

There is more than a grain of truth to the geographical description of both, that's for sure!