Bambikiller240

That sure is a VERY nice looking car, and I *think* that I'd love to own one like it. With one notable concern.........Having both the battery AND the fuel tank in the trunk, in such close proximity to each other would scare the Sh*t out of me. I'd have to put that battery in an enclosure before I'd take it out of the driveway! My $.02

After having made sure that the engine is in full tune, if the symptom still persists; you may need to look into the condition of the Anti-Backfire Valve which is part of the emissions controls (if your car still has them installed).

Guess it is an individual choice, but I really like the way I can do just about anything on my car with only a few different sized wrenches or sockets. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm will let you undo just about anything. Oh sure there are "other sized" bolts on the car but for common work these 5 will allow you do do most maintainance. For high corrosion areas like the fender bolts mentioned or the Thermostat housing, I would consider S/S, but FOR ME, I would only change those that I would get a great benefit frm changing. Bolts of the correct size (not in S/S) can be obtained through Lawson Products.

Stock means Stock. What many have suggested is to only make changes that can be undone easily. That would preclude changes to an different engine and trans and new suspension, UNLESS you plan to maintain the old engine/trans in good running order by keeping the entire engine and transmission internals well lubricated including the metal parts and seals etc. so that it could be dropped into the car at a moments notice and be driven immediately without any worries. What you are describing would (by most people) be considered as MAJOR changes to a car.

No sealer should be necessary.

Libre Wheels auction ended early this morning.........No Bids, No Sale.

Ah, I see. So then part of the problem is sellers with a short supply of brain cells. :stupid: Some folks are their own worst enemy. Very sad that some people will fall for stuff like this. It does, however go a ways to explaining how certain politicans get elected. Glad that someone like Gary (beandip) is around to save their bacon, and start the education process.

I hear what you're saying but there is a great way to stop it from continuing. We start prosecuting the local people acting as agents for the foreign crooks as accessories to the crime. When that happens, the supply of people willing to take on this kind of work without practicing due diligence and taking the necessary steps to ensure the financial instruments (check, bank draft, whatever) are valid will disappear. If this is "known scam" that happens frequently, then IMO, the local agents have an obligation to go the extra mile to ensure that a legal transaction occurs. $.02

Civil Servants my A$$!:sick: Why am I not surprised? No wonder people pull stunts like this, it's because they can get away with it!

Pick the muffler of your choice (Borla, Dynomax, Flowmaster, or??) and have a local muffler shop that does high quality work build you a mandrel bent custom 2.5 inch dia. system. If you need the "Y" pipe from the exhaust manifold, it is available from Motorsport Auto, or Victoria British, or maybe even Nissan (not sure about Nissan).

In a Z that I owned a few years back, I had a noise that occured when I drove over a rough railroad crossing. I would hear a kind of "Thump and Rattle" that turned out to be the spring-type support hanger for the right-side Hand brake cable (from the "U-shaped bracket to the right rear brake assembly) being a bit stretched out and allowing the cable to hit other parts of the car when the suspension was compressed on that side of the car.

I vote for keeping it very close to original. You have a great start with the car that you found. It would be a pity to drastically alter a "SURVIVOR Z". Mild mods such as 2Many mentioned wouldn't hurt, but anything major should be avoided IMHO.

Do you have a link to a place that sells this stuff? Any specs for us to compare the product to Dynamat?

I would expect to have no holes in it. Especially no holes big enough to stick my head through. It's a "pretty" Parts car at best.

The first time I experienced Upstate NY in winter, I was totally amazed and completely depressed at the condition of the cars I saw on the road. All I can say is SALT SUCKS!

...............is another man's parts inventory for eBay sales!

That makes sense! No use paying before you need the parts. Keep an eye on eBay and elsewhere. You never know what will come up for sale. When you spot what you want GRAB IT!

I'm no fan of ZX "cars", but heck it's got an L28 w/ EFI and probably an R200 Diff so it's worth more than $50, but that cancer would scare me from a safety standpoint. What other hidden parts of the car are ready to collapse next time it hits a pothole. I will say that the car is a great example to prospective Z buyers of why it is SO important to do a thorough inspection of a car before making an offer and purchasing something that becomes a project (money pit) that one hadn't planned on .

Hi Mike: Your car is similar to mine in most respects, though manufactured two months earlier. Mine is: HLS30-55703 11/71 1972 Model year **My seats are the old style NOT flip Forward No Gas Door latch pockets for seat belt retractors Remember, that back in the early 70's the cars for a particular model year went on sale in October of the previous year, so Nissan started production of the cars around July or August so that they could be on-shore in the US, and available by October. To be sure, there is overlap at different times and places in the Z production time line, but "generally" I've found the info at ZHome to be quite good. With the list of features, a VIN and Production date, QCAR17 should be able to determine what he's got.

Maybe she overheard you talking about roasting her tires and videotaping the heinous act for the gratuitous pleasure of your friends and aquaintances. :cross-eye :devious:

First of all, I'm flattered at your comment, but I must say that there are many others here who know more than I. Mike W has given you good advice. You should be able to confirm the type of your car with the VIN and the information at ZHome.com. If you do find a need for more help, don't hesitate to post and we'll do our best to help you! **EDIT** HLS30 019889 was Last of Series One Body Style HLS30 21001 was First of Series II Body Style

They do not look anything like the Ground Control set pictured on Pg 1 of the thread. I don't think they are the S.T. brand either. Shape doesn't look right to me. Perhaps Victor Laury can confirm (since he has one on his car), but the shape of the Rear bar in your picture looks similar to what I remember the MSA bar looking like. Also, no mounting brackets are shown, so even if it WAS the right style bar, you'd be then searching (and paying more $$) for the rest of the hardware needed to install it on your car. If you are going to want to buy a used set of bars, I'd pass on these and wait until you find a seller who can show you a picture of a complete set-up that confirms that what you will be getting is what what you want to have. Painful, YES! Choices, Choices. Patience, or $$

See my posted reply on page 1 of this thread. Ground Control has what you are looking for and it costs $259 for the pair according to their website: 1" front & 3/4" rear. Picture in previous post. My understanding is that Suspension Techniques also offers the type of Rear bar that you are looking for. Both companies have very good reputations IMHO.

An excellent piece of advice!

The one at the top of the picture appears to be the front one. That one at the bottom looks like the kind that will require drilling the chassis to me. You're right, it shouldn't. But I guess it depends on your definition of "right". What is your definition? Size? Brand? Style of bar? [/list=1] Since your first post, I have done a bit of searching myself to see what is out there, and selection is much more limited than it was last time I was looking (about 15 yrs ago). You may have to compromise.