Bambikiller240

Maybe someone who can read the Japanese charecters on the cap can shed some light on this. There are a lot of charecters to just say "OIL" so maybe there is a clue on the cap itself? Alan? Kats? anyone?

Thanksgiving represents the beginning of the season where retail businesses throughout the western world satisfy their own greed and money lust by making the general population feel that in order to demonstrate their affection for family and loved ones, they MUST spend large sums of money to purchase the biggest, fastest, newest, most "in fashion" products on the market. It represents the worst parts of modern society. IMO of course.

If any of you guys see this car on the road, please, for your own sake, DRIVE AWAY RAPIDLY. Occupant is armed and dangerous!

Good Write up Craig. I'm sure it will help many people! Carl

Hi Darren: The thermo *should* let the engine warm up fully to normal operating temp, if it's operating correctly. It's possible that the themo in your car is a 160 degree unit, whereas for *most * cars in your climate a 180 degree unit would be more suitable. To be honest, since it only costs about $10 for a thermostat and gasket, unless you have replaced it yourself recently, I'd start with replacing it. Are the Spark Plugs and Plug Wires in good order? If so, it could be that the carburetors need some adjusting.

That cylinder is the condenser , and YES, you can easily remove the distributor by loosening the two bolts that hold it to the timing cover. Just make sure that you have the engine at Top Dead Center (shown in the picture), and the pull the Distrubutor out. Don't rotate the engine while the distributor is not installed. Do your work and re-install it with the rotor oriented in EXACTLY the same direction. Make your wiring connections, "Time" the engine and your done.

I don't think that picture is of a 280Z Rear Sway bar mount. It looks just like the brackets supplied with aftermarket sway bars from Suspension techniques and Ground Control. The pic I'm attaching is from Ground Control. AFAIK, the 280 Z Rear Bar mounts FORWARD of the diff, not to the rear like this one.

Here's a picture showing where AI mean to route the Pertronix wires into the Distributor. (original picture from member "Zs-ondabrain", & modified by me)

Yes, that hose does help to warm the engine as it feeds semi-warm air into the carbs from near the exhaust manifold, but if it takes 25 minutes for your engine to warm up, I believe that you need to replace the themostat on your car. It should not take more that 5-10 minutes at the most to warm the car at the tempertures you are describing. PS, I leave the summer / winter switch closed all winter long from November through March. I live in the S.F. Bay area of CA

You use the small "notch" where the wire to the points used to go. When looking at the distributor from standing at the drivers fender looking across the car, it is at 12 o'clock.

Craig: Your Negative Batt Cable, The Large cable should be connected as I mentioned at the Starter, but there should also be a small wire part of the cable that connects to the firewall, so the cable basically connects to BOTH places.

Attachment is a blank page??

My 1972 Factory Service Manual listed 170 PSI as the compression reading for a new L24 engine

The switch from Plastic to Metal occurred much earlier than 73. Like in early 1971 manufacture dates, when the "Series II" changes came to North America.

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!! Well know scam. The check they send is a bogus one and by the time it is discovered, the car is gone, you are on the hook to the shipper for costs to send your car somewhere. There was two threads about this a month or so ago. Said it was coming from Africa somewhere.

To the "Upper" bolt that holds the Starter to the Bell Housing (the OEM location) Where have you been mounting the Negative Cable from your battery? Somewhere else? If so, then I think you've found the cause of your Clutch hose frying. The starter uses a lot of power (AMPS) and if the Neg battery cable isn't there, the current would probably use the S/S hose as a path to where ever you had connected the Neg Batt cable in order to complete the circuit.

You're welcome There IS supposed to be an ashtray there. Sorry, but I don't have a picture of one.

My CA 240Z had the beginnings of Floorboard A/C from a bad weatherseal. Thank goodness I caught it with just a few minor perforations. POR'ed and Power Meshed the snot out of it last summer. Now good to go!

My Rear Engine mount looks like this too. (Less rust, more paint) Car mfg'd 11/71

Doesn't help me (or the driver either I'll bet)

#1 Correct, cannot convert without major cutting an welding of the newer style mount brackets into the tunnel #2 YES.

Oh, Man that's a drag. Sure hope you get some funds from those guys soon. You shouldn't have to use your money for this IMO.

I don't see why it wouldn't work. HOWEVER, instead of worrying about heat burns from a torch or heat gun, you'll need to be careful to not get freeze burns from the dry ice. It will kill skin just as quick as heat will.

PhotoShop or MS Paint