Victor Laury

As a Roadster fan, I wish they'd make a real, light, cheap true sports, roadster model (not based on any model with a top). If they timed it's release with the revival of the Datsun marque and mached Mazda in Grassroots racing support programs, it would be my offical seventh heaven and I'd once more know the debit of car note!

I can only add, I didn't have this problem until last month when I installed my Ztherapy total restoration. Everything is lubed. As a matter of fact, the throttle pedal is way lighter now, As if ZT sent me lighter return springs. Well, If I try to creep at below 5 MPH - Wow! do I ever get into a surge cycle! I believe I've bruised a collar bone with my shoulder belt. I think I'm going to change my pedal height (rod length through the fire wall) and see if that helps. Too bad, my pedal is now right where I like it and can easily "heel toe" in it's current position.

Some of our members only have a 260Z or 280Z or S130. But if you included all those choices, it would be a complex poll!

Got home to find that my 240Z.org tee-shirt and sticker had been delivered. Pretty fast for their slowest, least costly shipment choice!

Even after all these items where replaced, I still had had a buzz goin on. Turned out the plastic cover over the shift pattern display was loose. (1st)Bzzzzt(2nd)buzzzzzzzzzzz(3rd)Buuuuuzzzzzzzzzz(4th)Buuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz A little super clue finaly solved my problem.

If you plastic media blast the car, you'll be ahead of the game and it's well worth the money (i'll guess about $600). The plastic media will not distort the 510 body panels the way sand blasting will. It will not blast out the rust but you'll be in the best posisstion to sspot blast those areas. My media blaster can spray primer (Thanks a lot AQMD ). So I had to find a body shop nearby to haul the work to after blasting

Whoa! I'm try to decipher his question. I think he may be inquiring about rod bolts? 8mm vs 9mm rod bolts Big ended bottom end? Reminds me of my Trinidadian girlfriend!

Just how much different is this car from the 610 coupe? Wheelbase/track? There's a nice 73 610 coupe for sale, If I installed an L6 and a roadster trans, just how close could I get?

Kyle's write up on the proceedures was a good primer for me. Anybody know where it is?

I must admit, Your'e finding some fine looking east coast cars!

Alan, Here in the States where we drive on the funny side of the road, I've never considered the E brake handle strange. That's the way it is in my roadster. I'm even happy it's arranged this way. I'm too big for both cars anyway. If the Ebrake handle was on the left, It would dig into my thigh. When I drove Les Cannady's Fairlady Z, I was amazed on how fast I adapted to sitting right. The hassle is overtaking, where you've got to swing right to peer around the car in front and then dive left to pass. Now that's awkward!

Not too many L-6's in roadsters. There also the problem with engine height as well. The U-20 and R-16 motors where rather short engines. We have enough trouble swapping L-4's in there with cutting the hood. In the late 80's, One of our vendors, Stan Chernoff, developed a swap kit for L-4's where you didn't have to "Raise the Scoop". My dream has always been to replicate the almost legendary "Roadster S". A prototype racer Nissan campained briefly in Japan only. It was outfitted with the prototype of the engine that would end up in the fairlady 432 (crossflow, hemi, DOHC, 2L six). But this roadster was 4 inches wider and several inches longer than your normal SR/SP roadster

Internals, Yes. But We got no, 0, rear Wheel Drive SR20's And none of the Turbo's. just FWD SR20DE's. Still an Awesome engine. It's the most desired swap for a roadster. The few that have been done look very natural under a roadster bonnet. Iv'e only seen 1 DET swap and it wasn't very clean.

St.Steven, You left out the evil laugh - BBBBWWWOOOOOHAAAHAAAHAAAHAAAA!

Looks Sweet! My only beef is the door ding trim. Personal taste - I hate that stuff

Ahh! true!

I wouldn't suggest setting the advance to 5 BTDC arbitrarily. Many Z's have had a distributor swap in their past and just suggesting a setting may kill performance or kill an engine. Different markets came with different dizzys as well. Much better to set your timing using total advance of 32 Degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance off and plugged @ 2,500 RPM. So, no matter what the initial mechanical advance is setup for, you'll know you've got it right.

Oops! Doesn't seem to be a franchise in Sputh Carolina though. http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm

Try the link to learn more about Mr. Vest http://www.datsun.org/fairlady/RockVest.htm

The Gas Tank ReNew franchises are all over the states and probably Canada as well. After my dealings with the L.A. franchise, I have nothing but accolades. Good Service and fair deals. I was returning a tank ReNew tank from a 72 that their repair had failed. I explained to them that this was out of a junk car that I was placing into a new car. They Did Not Care! They Covered their tank, No questions asked, no matter where it came from or who paid for the initial service, or which car it came from! I got a repaired tank without opening my wallet. Very refreshing to encounter real professionalism in this mostly crooked world.

Rock Vest! The Rock Vest? Roadster Racer Rock Vest? That would be the local expert, no matter how big an area "local" means.

I Really shoot for a balance of both.

No, Not a purple Saturn. possibly a teenage girl's pink VW Cab

No matter what he says, If you exceed 35 degrees total advance, Melted pistons are in your future. You might not even hear the ping at load, at speed, fighting the aerodynamic drag, foot in the throttle, engine beating itself to death.

Vent pulls