webdawg1

You could always use the "240Z Restoration Guide" (See link below) as a general purpose "Restoration" guide and break the items into sections/sub-sections that you can check off as you work your way thru the various systems. (I.E. - Fuel system, Brakes, Cooling, Engine...etc...etc) You got to have some sort of game plan...or you'll just have stuff scattered to the four winds...Plenty of ziplock bags will help too with keeping track of all the nuts/bolts/washers. The Zcar Micofiche CD or course....Wick Humble's "How to restore your datsun Z-car" is a excellent reference also... http://www.jasonjarvis.com/main.html webdawg1

You might want to check out the following url: http://www.alfaparts.net/index.html (They also have a Datsun section) They are also looking for folks to send them old rusty parts so they can produce new stamped parts. webdawg1

Man that would be nice!!!....Now come on back into the real world....get hold of yourself man....(Smack Smack Smack) Most folks either redo their own tanks themselves or send them off. See the following urls: http://www.gas-tank.com/ or http://www.gastankrenu.com/ webdawg1

Before you do anything you might want to check out the following url: http://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs.htm webdawg1

You might try the following url(s): http://www.courtesyparts.com/index.html Located in texas, but not sure how near they are to your location. or MSA at the following url: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php or VB at the following url: http://www.victoriabritish.com/ webdawg1

The following url should help you out some to get everything sorted out. I'd go ahead and change out those fusible links if I was you. They run about $5.00 each from MSA, VB, ...etc...etc. Attached word document dealing with fusible links might be of some interest also. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.gif webdawg1 Fusible Link Info.doc

You should probably get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) instead. That other manual won't help you out too much. As far as picture #2, #3 are concerned, the following attached file should help you out quite a bit...looks like the PO "REALLY" did a number on that puppy. FSM will have a really good wiring diagram in the back to help you sort things out... webdawg1

Do you have a "Death Wish" or something??? I'd would trust heavy duty jacks stands under the car...any day of the week, compared to the car placed on the rims!!!. You may want to invest in some heavy duty jack stands and be done with it... webdawg1

Yes and No. Let me explain... If they have never been turned before you would probably be ok. More than likely tho they have been turned at some point in their service life. What you need to find out is the thickness of the rotors now. Reason being, that if you turn them and they are right at or just above the "Minimum" spec for the rotors more than likely they will be "Below" the "Minimum" spec and could (Most Likely) warp at some point. Turning the rotors cleans everything back up and gives the pads a flat surface to mate to when breaking them in. Also found a product by 3M that cleans the surface up even better after turning them. See url below: http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSP4K8BYQSbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/gvel_GS2QVMPRKLgl/command_AbcPageHandler/theme_us_aad_3_0 webdawg1

Might want to spray them down with PB Blaster for a couple of days (Every couple of hours) and see if they will break loose after that. As a last resort, maybe heat them up a little bit with a torch. As a general rule tho, usually the PB Blaster will break them loose. webdawg1

If it was me I'd go with the "Gold" with polished lip. The black wheels just sort of blend in to the point of being obscure, if you follow my meaning. The "Gold" ones on the other hand come across as saying to the prospective viewer "Go ahead punk, make my day" or "You want a piece of me....OK sucker, lets go at it....right here....right now!!!!" I plan on going with "Panasports" when I get to that point.... webdawg1

Make any difference in sound when you make a long left or right curve? Could be your front wheel bearings perhaps.... When was the last time they were looked at and or repacked with grease? Are they adjusted correctly per the FSM (Factory Service Manual) in regards to the preload on the bearings? Just a couple of things to think about and or check out.... webdawg1

Get your kids involved with it....make it a family affair. You should have it done in no time with that much help.... I would think most kids would really like spending some "quality time" with "Dad" doing cool stuff with the Z. You would probably be surprised how much they would get into it once they get going good on it with you...Have a family meeting and discuss it with them and see what they say.... webdawg1

Will the strut for a 73 work on your 72?? If so, I saw a brand new LH strut (P/N: 54303-N3425) at the following url: http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/firstvisit.htm#pricing Might want to see what they will take for it....in other words 'haggle on' brother man....hope this helps.... webdawg1

Anybody out there other than "spdloader" that has used this product before?? Trying to do a side-by-side comparison with "Tank-Renu" which appears to be the better product at first glance and costs quite a bit more... (approx. $200-300 or more, depending on the condition of the fuel tank) Downloaded some "Red-Kote" general installation info/MSDS sheet in case anyone wants to check it out. webdawg1 Red-Kote.pdf Red-Kote (MSDS).pdf

Those are for the "Half-Shafts". Should need a total of four (4) if you are doing both sides at the same time, which is usually a pretty good idea. Looks like they are made by "GMB" from what I can see in the picture. webdawg1

I see these inner shift boots on eBay all the time, and every now and then the metal ring that holds it down. You could probably make one out of thick sheetmetal fairly easy, or get it off of eBay. Attached a couple of pictures that show you what it/they look like when in one piece. webdawg1

You might want to go to the following url and download the "EFI bible" which will probably help you sort things out with the EFI. Will probably save you a lot of time and money if you use it as a general EFI troubleshhooting guide. Print it out and put in a cheap binder as you'll probably be refering to it quite a bit...might want to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as well, because you'll be needing it also. http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/ webdawg1

Make sure you get FI (Fuel Injection) rated hose. Napa has a pretty good selection of hose. Ask for H202 5/16" FI hose. Should run you about $12.00-$14.00 for two (2) feet. Might want to check the condition of "ALL" fuel related hoses while you're at it. You'll be surprised at what you find, so you might want to make yourself a list of what all needs replaced and work your way thru the list and check them off your list as you replace them. webdawg1

If you're going to be replacing fuel lines...etc...etc, you may want to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as well as a Z car microfiche cd. (It will help out a lot in the long run) I suspect that if your fuel lines are in pretty bad shape on the tank end, then I can just wonder what they look like under the hood...point being that it just takes one small leak and you could have a major fire on your hands. You may want to do a search on "Fuel Tank Renu" if that z has been sitting for a long time. Do a search on "Alternate Fuel Filter" if you want to read up on doing a filter prior to the electric fuel pump. There is a small filter just inside the inlet side of the fuel pump (See picture) and it can be a PITA to get out sometimes. Napa has a pretty good selection of fuel rated hose to select from. Should be able to get just about everything you need from them... webdawg1

Should be looking at around approx. 750 Lbs. total. About 600 Lbs on just the engine, and approx. 100-150 on the tranny. Eastwood has a roll around engine/tranmission stand that will support up to 1200 Lbs. I'd go with the extra margin of safety..... webdawg1

I'm sure it really makes all the various elected office holders "Really Mad" as they drive around in their "Limousine's"..... Right !!!!........Which we are also paying for with our tax dollars. About time to toss some of them out of office.........Hello.... webdawg1

I found a "Reference" picture that shows the locations for the various sensors screwed into the housing. webdawg1 EFI System Components.doc

That would be the "Water Temperture Switch" that is messed up. P/N: 22120-N4202 Runs about $53.03 from your local Nissan dealer. Red wire turns into the blue wire at the bullet connector just prior to the wiring for the switch, and the other black wire coming back out of the switch is the ground connection. The thermotime switch is the one behind it with the brown connector still attached to it... webdawg1

That's a pretty special bolt. (See picture) You should be able to get one from the following website: http://www.nissanparts.cc The bad news is shipping will probably be somewhat high for just the one bolt. You might try your local Nissan dealership if you have one near you. The P/N for the bolt is 55565-E4100 I also see them out on eBay from time to time too. webdawg1 Spindle Bolt Lock Pin.bmp