panchovisa
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Everything posted by panchovisa
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Funny you should ask. They are ARP studs from Summit Racing. I ordered 16 and got 16 packs of 5 each!!!!! The holes have to be opened up to 15.5 mm to press studs in. PM me if you want some studs. -
Now it's a toad with a G-nose. Still ugly.
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Hurst-Airheart 4 piston front calipers and vented disks from old Datsun Competition catalog racers buffet. Rebuilt stock hubs (wanted aluminum hubs but am spending to much already), 3 1/2" long wheel studs (for the vintage race look), also stayed with four studs for vintage look. Getting custom made wheels so four studs are no problem. -
6" steel threaded collars, single spring seat with thrust washer under spring,"soft" 260 lb spring (I want "soft" spring to go with big 1 1/8 adj. swaybar), camber plates mount on top of strut tower (gives me 1" extra bump travel), two thin rubber bump stops (2nd rubber acts as bump travel indicator). -
Welded in brace from spindle/brake forging to strut tube. Trying to minimize deflection under hard cornering. Also new tab to use for two piece brakeline to stop the kinking of braided line through full wheel motion. -
How about airbrushing the hood to look like it was clear with the engine compartment of your dreams underneath? Or just put a number on it (and the doors) and RACE IT!!!!
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Rebuilt hub (new races/bearings/seals/extra long wheel studs) and blanchard ground Datsun Competition vented disks with aluminum hats. Needs safety wire on disk bolts yet. -
Nice to see someone making their own parts. You have spent alot of time on your car and it looks great. -
Alan, What is a practical limit for your S20? 8K? 9K? More? I know (read) that with a full race prep'ed top end the L24 (full bottom balanced, my is)is good to 8500 (I'll know for sure when I get my race head freshened up and on). No matter the engine, at some point there is a limit that is "peak disapointment", the key is to stay just short of it! -
Ok, a little dorsel fin (holding video lens), but gills on the front fenders behind the wheels definately! -
There is an awful lot of red!!!! What happens there? Peak dissapointment? I took my "stock" 240 to 8500 rpm and got away lucky with just throwing a rocker arm out from under the cam (no nicks on rocker or cam). Fixed engine and added a rev limiter!
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Chris, hope you don't think I was slammin your paint job. The car looks great. I just think if the idea is for tiger stripes more would be needed. But what do I know about graphics (my car is pure vanilla!!!!). If I ever go for the "cow" motif I'll let you pick how many black patches I need (fair is fair) I remember how load mine was with full race engine and megaphones (made me jump when I just blipped to 3K!!!!!)
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Looks like you've got a pretty sound shell. Taking it all the way down to bare metal is the way to go. I'd recommend taking a hammer and dolly and knock all the seams tightly together and stitch welding them to make the chassis stronger and quieter. Add sway bar mount re-inforcements to the front, strut braces, etc before priming and sealing seams. Keep up the good work. -
Hey Tony da Tiger! Cool idea ,but you need more stripes!!!!! Kinda looks like the hood and the cowl are held down with black racer tape (just jokin, but it kind of does?). Maybe if the stripes looked like the wind was "smearing" them backwards along the side? Or a faint narrow white shadow outlineing the black? Have you stepped on it in anger yet? Does it do everything you planned on?
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Jack the front up under the center of front cross member. You can put jack stands at each end of cross member where front control arms attach to cross member ( you will have unobstructed access to frame rails). I'd also move floor jack (or third jack stand)to tranny bell housing incase frame rail lets go completely (tranny will stop against tunnel/firewall if car falls). You can also jam a piece of wood between trans tunnel and tranny for more security. Any funny noises = move your arse!
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Why don't you guys just remove the forward (towards front of diffy) cross member and un-do the two nuts on back of diffy??? The struts, and a-arms will be still connected to rear cross member and the moustash bar stays where it is (unless you need it later). The diffy will move forwards and down.
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Try a longer rod on the slave cylinder. Just pull the rubber boot off of slave (the rod comes with it), measure rod diameter and length and find some steel to make various lengths till you find one that works (radius the ends on sander/grinder). The adjustable 240 type will also work, but needs the pivot arm with the hole (you probably don't want to drop tranny to change it though).
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Carl, looks pretty complete to me (although some of the images didn't appear). I pulled four rear stub axels apart OFF the car. I don't recommend that! I had struts locked down in huge machinist vise and had to lag screw the workbench to garage wall studs to keep from tipping workbench over while I broke nut loose!!!! I will be re-installing soon (after struts are welded for short shocks, coil overs, etc.) probably off the car again (will finish torque ON the car though).
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Hey, it looks like you did your burn out over the only puddle in sight. Or is it bleach?
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Kyteler, nice job on pictures. One thing Victor hasn't told us yet, what diameter the new wheels will be? The old were 14", the new 15",16", 17"? I think no bigger than 15" for old school look (ok, maybe 16"). Many more tire choices at 15, 16, & 17.
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Victor, the Mark 3. The Mark two looks slightly odd with half the number of bolts, and the Volk doesn't have the vintage look you wanted. Since the Mark 3 wheel disassembles you can chose any color for center (an anthracite gray might look stunning) so don't make a choice based on red centers. Try a photo chop of your choices (with color choice) on photo of your car. Also the spun aluminum rim halves could be anodized in color.
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This looks serious! -
Bumpers on a racer?
