SteveJ

Make sure the fuel level in the tank isn't too high. How to test: Turn the key to ON. Use a piece of wire to short to the terminals at the sending unit while someone watches the gauge. The gauge should go up. Remove the wire after testing, keeping in mind that the gauge probably won't respond too quickly. If the gauge does not respond in test 1, leave the key in ON. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at the yellow terminal. The voltage should be changing a lot. If it's not, it could be the gauge, but more on that later. If the gauge moved in test 1, pull out the sending unit. Measure resistance between the two terminals while moving the float. If the resistance doesn't change, you have a bad sending unit. If test 2 failed, double check at the body harness/dash harness interface. Find the yellow wire and test voltage to ground on the dash harness side with the key in ON. Good luck and report back on the results. If you don't understand the tests as I laid out, let me know.

Very unlikely they are related. Start a new thread on the fuel gauge, and I'll give you some tests to run.

I couldn't tell you myself. I just happened to have an extra set of visors handy, so I took a photo to show what @zKars was talking about. It was the only screw, so it seemed obvious to me. Look at this link and click on the photo: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/10/recovering-sun-visors-by-derek-garnier.html I think it tells you what you need to know. Yes, it's for a 510, but it looks the same as the 240Z visor.

I'm running SMs on a stock L24. It doesn't seem too rich to me.

I would suspect the hatch seal first. Then move to the hatch glass weatherstrip.

This one

It's listed, but it's unavailable from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/4919/oil-cap-o-ring-72-83-zzx

The manual is saying the marks are 4º apart. There is one screw that allows you to adjust this indicator relative to the distributor mounting bracket. There is another screw that allows you to adjust the distributor relative to the indicator. When you adjust both, you can get well over 8º advance at idle.

Is it my imagination, or did you get the opening for the fill cap powder coated, too? It seems like that would be best left to staying the natural aluminum.

Be careful when you doubt the Captain. I looked at all 3 I had lying around and found no gaskets, but once I opened the parts manual website... But not surprisingly...

Maybe a pinched wire. Maybe a mistake in reassembling a switch. The wiper switch connects the wires to ground.

Yep, one or more of the circuits going back to the switch is probably grounded.

By the way, check the coolant and oil. If either appear tan to brown, PARK IT IMMEDIATELY! I hope one of the contacts I provided can help you out.

Yikes! Does the white smoke smell sweet? It could be a blown head gasket. I'll PM you contacts for a couple of Florida Z clubs. Maybe one of them can help you find someone.

Look at this thread for some ideas: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108060-electric-fans/

What exactly do you need measured? I have an evaporator sitting in my garage. Do you have any typical fittings you could send me to test fit for you?

Frankly I didn't even notice that your compressor is a DeVilbiss. I just happened to notice the standards mentioned in the question. That's true blind squirrel action on my part.

Yes, I've had those snap. No, it wasn't fun with the removal even if a friend helped me with it. No, we didn't have to drill into the head to remove the bolts, but he did have to spend a couple of hours with mapp gas to get them loose. Having said that, I would suggest trying an induction heater on those bolts. The neat thing is that you can buy a free-form coil that you can wrap around the T-stat housing near the head to heat the bolts closer to the head. This will put the head into the bolts close enough to the head to get the desired effect. Here's the induction heater I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PD8ZSXZ Here are the free-form coils I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084TCX7NG While the price of entry may seem high, there's a pretty substantial chance this can save you from spending a couple of hours trying to remove broken bolts. If you want to see one of these induction heaters at work, look at my YouTube channel. I give a demonstration. I also used this on a 280Z rear axle nut that a friend couldn't remove with a 2 foot breaker bar. I applied the heater for about 2 minutes, and I broke it loose without breaking a sweat.

I looked at the Q&A on the oil Garrett used.

If you are talking about the knobs, this is what I used to remove them in the video: https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-piece-63594.html

Are you asking how to remove the knobs from the rheostat & trip reset? Or are you asking how to remove the brackets from the dash frame?

Are you still using stock wheels?

In addition to the link @26th-Z posted, here is what Z Car Depot offers: https://zcardepot.com/collections/featured-products/products/wiper-blade-arm-wire-metal-original-style-240z-260z-280z-70-76?_pos=1&_sid=c318e6548&_ss=r

Are you sure you bought the 240Z springs? Are you accounting for sag in the old springs?