seerex

hey are you moving to the states when you leave japan?

ok its a 12 volt unit and the part number is #22433-h7500 , i bought a custom harness from a guy for my 72 which i converted to electronic and i have these great info sheets I can try and can for you tomarrow which list everything from start to finish on how to convert using the ic ignition module

The only diffence i found was if the side of the coil listed if it was to be used with the ballast unit , if that was so it was suppose to lower it output to I think 6 instead of 12 like you were using it without a ballast. Thats what I read on the side but i have the nissan coil number somewhere if you want it?

pm'ed ya i have a electronic ignition conversion guide that might help

Any zx coil should work as long as it is not for an early ballast type setup, whats the prob?

I think alot of the price can be based on where you are located as in are there many rust free ones or many of them at all for sale, and also you have to take into consideration that fact if its truly as nice as the pics point out you would have to do very little to make it a fun road car, if anything. I don't think 12k is out of this world as a price , but as a daily drive I would say no but it you want a trailer queen or one to park in the living room yes

hey I found this place it might of interest , nice old style wheels http://www.ggarageusa.com/alta/aftermarket4x114.htm

I love the ssr mesh but the price doesn't love me, I was trying to price them from the japanese website and I was getting very depressed, I have a guy in the states that says no prob with getting them but I am afraid to call , i might pull out my visa and regret it later , not sure of the offset but I am trying for 16's but new they only make 17's and 15's . I am just gonna wait and hope they come up for sale for a reasonable price . Jeff

just rechecked and they are 1/4 on my 71 and I believe those to be original

roflol no i think 5/8 is a tad too big , sorry my mistake

thats is what I was thinking as well, if so I think they are the 5/8 fuel line , just checked the garage because i just replaced all of those on my 72 recently and I thought i had some left over, but yes in case of overflow it takes the extra fuel and dumps it into the airbox, not sure if there is a nissan number for that, both of my local nissan dealers give me the dumb look when i ask for things like that

Hey I just looked at my engine and are the hoses that come from the carbs or come from the valve cover? There are two hoses from the carb which are overflow hoses another from the valve cover to recycle the fumes and then a 4th that runs from the fuel fume recycle thing mounted next to the air cleaners on the firewall, maybe yours is diffrent than the ones in the states, Can take pics of mine if might help

this might be an alternative http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7929902947&category=43955

You are very right the rare offsets and size makes them very desireable, I am having the same problem finding the right set of ssr formula mesh wheels , i find them but not in the size offset or hug configuration I need , supply and demand

looks kinda rough but I bet its also rare http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7930481157&category=33631 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7930482001&category=33631 wish I had a rhd to put it too

there is a company that regualrly sells them<military units> in carolina I believe they bring them up to street legal status and add other goodies to make them more friendly, I looked into for a bit then I drove one for a while and was impressed with what it could do but not for the lack of turning ability, ride, harsh interior, and general lack of use-ability in the city , if you want one still after driving one for a bit get an early year model< if you are getting a non-military unit> because they have numerous military features that were removed on later non military production years, good luck great vehicle just too much for me

wow guess am a bit out of touch with the market for the watanabe's but that seems pricey , I guess they are getting so hard to find now its driving up the price

Well i am no expert on any z for that matter a fuel injected motor, check the fuel pressure like you said you are going to, not sure if you have a ecu on the 280z but if you do I would confirm it being good, if you have a stand alone ignition the 80 model black box on the side of the distributor check that as well, your air flow meter is working ok as well? these are just thinks I know will not allow an injected motor to run if you are getting gas, probably didn't help much I think someone else will get more specifics for ya, good luck

racer X -26% , hhhm I will sleep better tonight

thank you for the link , I always can use extras

I would expect more rust than he says just to be safe and I would recheck the floor and rails if there is rust there most likely there is more he doesn't know about, anytime bumpers are shaved I would be cautious of how its done only way is to use steel to be safe, and I think his exaust leak is from the huge hole between the weatherstriping of the hatch and the body panel , everyone I know that has bought a car from ebay or looked at one was generally disappointed unless it was a newer car ,have him email you more pics and close ups , never hurts and if he isn't willing to , i would pass just my 2 pennies

me and the wife are rethinking buying a new full size pickup now, wanted one for a boat and trailer hauler but at these prices the HEMI doesn't look so good , neither does the titan , either way I hate to said what we are all thinking but I doubt they are going anywhere but up

Kinda funny I have a close case of both , got one and have tinkering with it for over a year now just got it running right but still needs brakes but only paid $450 for it but I love it dearly just for making it "MINE" so to speak but it need lots of cancer treatment , and now i just got a rust free 42000 mile 2 owner 71 thats very clean and will be getting painted and completed in under 2 months we hope after getting ti this week. I love both aspects of what you are looking for but if nothing else try and get a good rust free or close to it, that seems to be the biggest cost in repairs not motors or other stuff and as well if you have someone else do the body work or paint it makes the bill easier on the wallet , good luck

hhm thank you , i know what to search through in the galleries so i can print them up to take to the body man, as well as lay out which i do and do not have in my parts bin, funny how everyone has them slightly diffrent or not at all, guess previous owners and diffrent tastes I assume, so now that i know what to look for i will be in good shape , thanks again Jeff

"Baron out of their tree "