Steve Parmley

Some of the pictures of C production 70's racers had similar flares in the rear but I never have seen the fronts bubble out like mine. They usually had a scooped out, not bubble curve. I did not take the time to "pretty" them on. I had 1/2 inch wheel spacers in the front to help turn in. For clearance I had to file off the lip on the flare for clearance.The wheels are 15x8 and the tires are 23x9x15 cantilever slicks designed to actually fit a 7 inch wide wheel. Another source that 2 Fresno autocrossers use is MAS Racing Products flares and look like the street flares I have. They're in St. Paul MN 651-644-6811. A more modern look and expensive look that fits tires just as wide can be found at ztrix.com called the Subtle Z. Check this thread out for pictures taken by member jmark of this kit and those tires on an SCCA E Production racecar. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18314&page=1 Oh thanks Ron. The green car was my daily driver I turned into an FP car because my project car was taking so long. I am reassembling it as we speak with less weight and more suspension work . And yes my main project, the orange car is still taking too long.......time, money, kids, laziness and old age.

There are a couple of pics in my gallery of my green car with the MSA "street flares" just riveted on. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2897&cat=500&page=1

I just bought the Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings from Summit Racing. It was much cheaper tham VB. http://store.summitracing.com/ Do a make and model search.

I don't know about Arkansas but in California you could double your asking price for a convertible like that. Looking closely, it appears to have been in an accident . The excessive front strut camber is the giveaway.

I was able to remove more of the privacy bars on the photo. The unveiling looks to have taken place at the Hooters in Yokohama. Ron......?

Using my ex-Soviet photo black bar decoder I was able to identify three of the main players in HS30-H's historic photo. Left to right- Pete Brock, Ron Carter and John Morton! This certainly muddies the which came first BRE or 432R water.

A pinky purple 1965 Corvair Corsa 140hp, four one barrel carburetors. ( 2 primary and 2 secondary). I rebuilt the engine in high school auto shop and had it on the road in the summer of 1973. The car's crowning glory was when I beat my friend in a drag race with his new Triumph TR6. I spent many afternoons in the hills and back roads learning to go quickly. The car taught me about rear weight bias and terminal oversteer on a rainy afternoon on Mt Eden road near my home town of Cupertino. The Old Oak tree just lost some bark, but the Corvair went to Chevy heaven. I kept the engine and it found a home in a blue 1966 Corvair Monza. It was never quite the same as the first one.

I have several styles in my gallery. Try www.ztrix.com and MSA for fiberglass and Victoria British carries some steel flares.

VIR looks like a beautiful track. Is that Grayson Upchurch's old car? He came so close to winning the runoffs in past years, it would be great to see that car finally win.

The first thing to do is buy the conversion manual from http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html and read. Many questions will be answered and many mistakes avoided.

Before you get rid of your spoiler take a look at it with flares. I just ordered one like yours. Here is Alan Giles track car with one.

How could a wing that looks so good on a Porsche look so out of place on a Z.

In Australia the Chevrolet logo while not exotic, would be out of the norm. I do wish the rear panel looked better because that is all most of us would see with his power to weight ratio.

Well, attention to such detail makes you Ross Brawn and Michael Schumacher combined. Weather in the California central valley ranges from effin' hot to Iraqui hot. Low on the humidity. I am still happy if I remembered to properly torque all the lugnuts. You have inspired me though and I am doing alot more reading on suspension and set up. Spreading the load around the strut for the swaybar mount should not be hard to design but if you have any pictures that would help.

O.K. I get some of this, but how is ride height related to chassis balance with a weather change? Also what is a setdown? I have attached a picture of Vic Sias' swaybar to strut attachment. Do you just weld a bolt to your strut tube?

It does look like the Kaminari which is my favorite one. Here is a picture of my brother's car with the Kaminari molded on. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3434&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 What I like about the mystery one is the thinner mid bumper which looks more 240 than the 280 thickness of the other MSA airdam they just came out with. It is probably too wide for a 240 anyway so maybe I should go with the Kaminari.

Sorry if this has been asked before but do you know if this airdam is available in the U.S. ? I realize this is a 240sx converted to a Z nose but I would like to adapt this airdam to a 240 Z if available. I stole this pic from the earlier G-nose thread and I believe this car is in Japan. Thanks for any leads.

Here is my green Z with the same slicks 23x9x15 r430 compound on 8 inch wheels. The flares are the "street flares" from Motorsport auto.

If those are 8 or 9 inch cantilever slicks on your car, some of the SCCA E Production folks are using the "Subtle Z" kit from www.ztrix.com pictured below Some of the wilder looking kits use really wide or offset wheels which might not be best for what you are doing. John Coffey of www.betamotorsports.com was using the ZG flares on his open track Z with 16x10 wheels.

You could try contacting Vic Sias himself. His business is at http://www.siastuning.com/ Maybe if you bought something from him the secrets might flow. I rode with him in his car before he sold it and was amazed at how much quicker his car turned in compared to my FP car. He was making great power from a near stock 280 by just using his customized fuel injection setup. I guess that is why his business is doing so well.

http://www.designproductsracing.com/DesktopDefault.aspx

You don't want to use the UL, ultra light Panasport racing wheels on the street even though they look like the regular Panasports. The heavier street wheels are one of the more popular wheels so they can't be too bad, though I have never owned a set myself. My wheels are the 3 piece 16x12 with 5 inches backspacing. I have coilovers with smaller diameter springs to make that backspacing fit. The wheels weigh 16 lbs. The SCCA is allowing 12 inch wide wheels with slicks in the F Prepared class for the first time this next season.

Zero offset on a 7 inch wheel is perfect for a street Z. With deeper dish you will need flares, have more kickback from bumps and ruts in the road, have quicker wear in the bearings and more difficult steering from the increased scrub radius. My Panasport C-8 wheels are pricey and thin and it would not take much to bend the lip. Mine will just see track use. Here is where I bought mine from. http://www.midatlanticmotorsport.com/