LanceM

OK, Sounds really cool, would be a great ride.... Now reality check time... This is an old guy talking, advice is free so take it for what it's worth... Get the job first. $40K, 5 years of payments and full coverage at your age what will be your monthly payment be until it's paid for? Do you really want to live at home for the next 5 years? Do your parents really want you to live at home for the next 5 years? What if you or they decide that you should move out on your own, can you afford the car and life's expences before the 5 years is up? Don't mean to sound like your old man or an A$$ but all I want you to do is look ahead a little bit, don't get strapped with a 2000 pound monkey on your back eating at you every month. Nothing worse than hateing a car you bought to love, spoils the fun of driving it when everytime you see it all you think of is a payment book..... Been there done that.....

Here's the link, this is like a book on Datsun L series cams and engine top end componets. It's 18 chapters long and you will have to look through it to find the part about internal/external oiled cams, the whole thing is a good read. http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html

Can't use both oiling methods, only one or the other. I will look up the link when I get home tonight and post it, it's good reading.

Depends on the year of 240. I just swapped an 81 5 speed into my 73, clutch arms are the same. Bearing carriers are different. If you are using a 240 clutch pressure plate switch the carrier from the 240 4 speed to the 5 speed, if you are going to install the pressure plate from a 280 then you need to keep the carrier from the 5 speed. The carrier from the 240 is shorter as the pressure plate is taller if you don't swap them you won't be able to engage the clutch. The 5 speed shifter also has a crappy spring loaded bushing in it, I swapped the shifter from the 4 to the 5 speed. Other than those items it was a bolt in with no tunnel cutting.

hf240z, It depends if you are using the old style 240 cam or the newer cam. The new cam has oil hole drilled in all of the lobes, easy to spot, the old style cam did not and needed the spray bar for lubercation. If you switched the P-90 head with the cam that came in the p-90 you should be OK. As a side note I read somewhere and probably have it in my archives somewhere that the spray bar is the better method of lubercation. The internally oiled cams tend to burn something like lobes 1 and 8? and there is a method of blocking the cam and using the spraybar.

I guess I should send a note to #1 thanking her for being such a PIA Got rid of her (well maybe she got rid of me, don't matter it was a good thing any way you look at it) and got a Z, still have the Z and a #2 that has stuck through thick and thin, and me for almost 20 years with two fine boys, both with their eye on the Z! NOT! The funniest thing I heard from my oldest (15) is "how come it's always OLD (meaning me!) guys that you see driving the really cool cars?" I told him it's because they can finally afford them! House paid for, kids off fending for themselves, man I can't wait for that to happen! Trouble is that I'm going to be real real old by that time! Now if I could just come up with a few more bucks to get that new carpet!

On the starter solinoid you should have: the wire going to the starter on the inner heavy terminal, on the outer heavy terminal should be the battery + and the white wire which contains the fuseable link and provides power to the car, on the spade terminal inbetween the two should be 2 wires connected (at least on my 240 that's the way it is) both black with white stripe, which may look yellow from age. Alt: White w/red stripe to A terminal, black to E terminal, plug in to plug in (only goes one way) and the cap (the barrel item) it's body connects to E, wire to A. So it sounds like you have a few extra wires on the starter but otherwise have it right? but since you have no power to the car I would check the white wire, if it is open nothing is going to happen anywhere in the car.

Acording to my drawing the green/white wire comes from the ignition switch to the tach, black/white goes from the tach to the coil. If you are still using the black/white for power to your ignition you won't be getting it without either a tach in place or with the green/white and black/white wires attached to each other where the tach would be normally hooked up.

Yes you need the tach in to run acording to the drawing I have. If you want to run without the tach short the two tach wires together otherwise there is no 12V to the coil. I just put a ZX dizzy in my 240 and all I had to do to make the 240 tach work was short across the ballest resistor.

Might have to go find one and find out why.... That is unless someone already knows. With all of the mixing and matching that goes on now surely there is a combo that would work with offset, or at least you would think so. As far as better upgrades... well there are upgrades but a steel caliper weighs more than aluminum so maybe better is yet to be found...

Saw this on one of the antique tractor forums I frequent but couldn't find it to post here later. If this dosen't discribe tools and their common useage I don't know what does

The subject line asks it all, 300ZX rears look pretty good, why aren't they being used as an upgrade to earlier Z's?

No really, one of the world's air forces (maybe Germany?) painted a bunch of F-16's orange w/black tiger stripes for some kind of competition/demenstration and they looked really cool. Sort of driving a tiger instead of having one in the tank??

I bought mine when they were common and changing it was the only way to make yours stand out from the rest. Unless there is a big swing in collector interest the value of an all stock Z isn't much more than one that has been "improved". I know that mine isn't worth any more than I paid for it 20+ years ago, so all in all it was a bad investment if I was looking to make some money. Those that want to keep it stock should be very grateful to those that have spent so much time modifying Z's, without that type of aftermarket interest it would probably be tough finding any kind of part for early Z's. In the end it is "your" car, keep it stock or modify it, make it the way "you" want it to be. BTW, I'm thinking of maybe a orange w/black tiger stripe paint job on my 240, anyone ever seen anything like that before??

Yep that's the one, I haven't heard anything good about them and would like to have it before next year Hopefully a good used one will pop up. Thanks!

I'm looking for a 3 piece rear spoiler for my 240, looks like what was on the late 70's Z-28 and T/A. I think I have looked everywhere for new but maybe I've missed somewhere or maybe someone here has a useable used one to get rid of. Always looking for something....

You're going to hate me but I just threw mine away, it worked but needed a new mast again. I didn't have auto retract and if I forgot to lower it someone would bust it off everytime. Got tired of that and put on a unbreakable one. ....

I've alread cut in and luckly there isn't much going on inside and what was is taken care of. I just didn't want a glue on panel, I want to fix it right and once. I will check out tabco, thanks for the tip. Lucky for me I have this ace body guy available, he said that if they are weld in he would do both sides for $100 ready for paint! I've seen a lot of his work and when he is done you won't know they were repaced!

What started out to be a little rust hole had turned into the usual monster. Luckly for me my neighbor is a high quality body man that has a very good neighbor discount, at least for me Anyway the part I need to replace it Item 11 on page 25 of the VB catalog. His question is: is this a replacement panel (glue on over the top of the existing panel) which I guess is a common thing for a lot of replacement panels or a cut to fit and weld in panel? His preference and mine are a cut and fit panel but I need to know before I order and so that he can give me an estimate. Hopefully someone has gone this route before and knows first hand.

Just did a 5-speed swap today and got mine off no problem using a standard Craftsman combination wrench, box end to break them loose, open end to take them off. This was on a 240, is a 280 different?

80-90W would probably be fine, I looked in the Chilton's manual and it dosen't say. Takes 1 liter.

Ligonier Indiana, I think I own the only Z. Road salt killed them all 20 years ago. You go to a pick and pull around here and you have to show them a picture, then they laugh and say "you still got one of those!!!" I've also heard " never heard of them" show them the picture and they never seen one either.... Why are all the parts I want in CA and no one wants to ship!

Looking in my Haynes tech book on Webbers the # after the DCOE is a series # but dosen't really seem to make any sence... They are lumped together and apart, and the only referance to the series # is to accelerator pump stroke and float level settings and they don't go in number order smaller to bigger, other than that there is no mention of series # for any other time in the manual. For sure sounds like time to call an expert to make sure you order the right thing.

Around a pound per square foot, not bad and acceptable to me. I have shaved weight in other ways so adding this back for some quiet I figure I'm still ahead of the game both ways.

What I bought is not Dynamat brand, but is suppose to be the same thing as regular Dynamat but like half the price. It is really nice stuff and is very easy to work with. I am happy with it and look forward to driving with reduced road noise.