Yarb

I wouldn’t advise filling the trans before installation. Plenty of opportunity to do that while putting the cross member and shaft in.

Hey Cliff, Give us an update Friend.

Hey Cliff….Is there anyone that can help with the old school bleed process?

Gonna need some pics to even begin to understand the situation at hand. More pics at different angles the better.

Has the fuel dampener been removed also in the past?

The FPR @siteunseen is speaking of is on the injector fuel rail itself.

3/8 hose into the pump. 5/16 EFI hose out. You have the wrong fittings on the pump I believe

Suggestion for the future tuning of the fuel system. Install a FP gauge between the filter and fuel rail. This helps a lot determining fuel issues in the future and monitoring the fuel supply. IMHO

Opened just fine for me on my end.

Replace the crank seal. What’s the issue with the balancer?

I thought the stock radiator was a 2 row system. Has yours been replaced at one time. I went to the Hart’s radiator site. Looks impressive. These type of shops along with machine shops are fading away.

Please post the photos in the Classified section.

No need for a tube bender if you’re not set on authenticity. Install a couple of flex lines.

Might be over thinking the washer situation a bit. Do the install and snug them down. I realize you’re dealing with aluminum casings on the carbs. Someone might have a better idea. Using a torque wrench on aluminum scares me a bit. Keep in mind you should be dealing with only 5lbs of pressure.

I think you will find that the diaphragm is cracked. Take a pistol grip vacuum tool and test it. $20 dollar investment. Another option is 123 distributors or a Chinese distributor off eBay.