Yarb

Gonna need some pics to even begin to understand the situation at hand. More pics at different angles the better.

Has the fuel dampener been removed also in the past?

The FPR @siteunseen is speaking of is on the injector fuel rail itself.

3/8 hose into the pump. 5/16 EFI hose out. You have the wrong fittings on the pump I believe

Suggestion for the future tuning of the fuel system. Install a FP gauge between the filter and fuel rail. This helps a lot determining fuel issues in the future and monitoring the fuel supply. IMHO

Opened just fine for me on my end.

Replace the crank seal. What’s the issue with the balancer?

I thought the stock radiator was a 2 row system. Has yours been replaced at one time. I went to the Hart’s radiator site. Looks impressive. These type of shops along with machine shops are fading away.

Please post the photos in the Classified section.

No need for a tube bender if you’re not set on authenticity. Install a couple of flex lines.

Might be over thinking the washer situation a bit. Do the install and snug them down. I realize you’re dealing with aluminum casings on the carbs. Someone might have a better idea. Using a torque wrench on aluminum scares me a bit. Keep in mind you should be dealing with only 5lbs of pressure.

I think you will find that the diaphragm is cracked. Take a pistol grip vacuum tool and test it. $20 dollar investment. Another option is 123 distributors or a Chinese distributor off eBay.

Have you tested the vacuum advance? The FSM has a test for it. Chances are with the age of these cars the diaphragm is probably leaking.

I think to start with multiple pics of your engine bay for every component in question. My first instinct is you mentioned a ProTuner fuel rail. Would like to see how you have that installed. FPR etc. and how the return line is piped. My two cents

If his cylinders are dry I believe he’s got a fuel delivery problem. I’d start by routing a injector line to a bottle and check for fuel delivery.