26th-Z

HLS30-00026 and 27 - no chain.

HLS30-28726 would be a 4/71 manufacture date. You'll want to check Carl Beck's site Zhome.com for particular dates / serial numbers of changes. Sounds like you have the correct ash tray and lighter arrangement on the console and the hole in the dash is just bare. Pull handles on both sides is fine as would be just the passenger door. Jute and carpet under the seats / tool covers.

I didn't mean to rob this thread but I enjoyed the comments. From 'wooden skis' to 'Lange Bang'; yea, she's the Lange bang all right!

That's an authentic 1969 poster for Lange Ski Boots. 69 was around the time buckle ski boots were introduced; when the snow ski industry really took off. I had a pair of Langes and metal composite skis by Head.

Old wooden? No, no, skis were pretty sophisticated by 1969.

I have the AMCO front and rear bars which I bought used, years ago. At one time, I was thinking of mounting them, but they will go separately with 27th if and when I sell her. I actually have a bunch of AMCO stuff. Attached ad for the Z. I'm also attaching the 1972 Datsun options brochure for comparison. The interior luggage bar is going in 26th. My thoughts about the bumper bars are like those of front spoilers; just another thing out there to get bent. The AMCO bars really don't protect anything and will damage the bumper itself when it gets hit. They DO look great, though, that 'touring luxury' sort of look. Every installation of the front bar that I have seen is over the rubber strip with chromed, slotted cap screws with a nut and washer inside. I guess, that if you use the hole in the upright for the top flange bar mount, you would have to take the screw out of the rubber strip. You're going to have to drill the upright for the lower flange anyhow. Last, but not least, I have a proper hood that I would sell if you're interested.

In today's lingo, that would be called a ghost block. Makes sense that the alphanumeric digits are casting lots or batches. I could imagine a number of individual blocks being cast at the same time. Perhaps position of the mold in the casting process? But that would assume only one casting process per day. I see what you mean by the engine number assignment. Yea, Ok.

Hi Kats, And the same strange situation with the engines: a block cast earlier with a higher machine number than a block cast later (although days later). I would assume that the engine ID number was assigned when the casting was machined? What do the 'A' and 'D' mean?

Had to look at my casting numbers. HLS30-00026 has engine # L24-02338 casting # 9828A. HLS30-00027 has engine # L24-02162 casting # 9901D. 26th is a November car. 27th is an October car.

The picture I used was not from Z Car Depot but their part may very well be from the drive shaft. I think they called it a propeller shaft yoke. Anyhow, Jeffrey, you're on the right track with Terrapin.

If I understand you correctly, you are looking for part #11? The yoke? ZCarDepot has them - $40

My experience with car covers on open trailers is that the wind will billow the cover and cause it to rub / slap against the paint. I wouldn't recommend using a cover for that purpose.

Beck-Arnley https://www.beckarnley.com/ I use the Permatex Ultra Copper as well

No, it's the level of naivete, and high level of "I could care less". Nonsense yes, but that guy is there to sell his car. That's all. BaT banter is just that, banter.

I did an internet search and read a few things to confirm what I already knew. The chemicals in the polymer evaporate out and the material becomes brittle over time. Heat will make the material pliable, something in the 200 degree range, boiling water temperature, but the material will return to its same brittle state when it cools down. There is no way to infuse the material with what has evaporated out over the years. There are some really good products to protect and slow further damage, the Mequiar's being one of the top five, but that's about all you can do.

Yea, those look like tow bar brackets. Nice car, but I would cringe at making the restoration budget work.

Resurrected Classics: I was looking for the hood prop clip that welds to the top of the radiator frame. Max cut one out of a car and sent it to me. They have some replacement body panels and I bought a rear valance and spare tire well from them. Very well done replacement body panels. Yes, they are legit.

I was just talking to an engine builder who was describing the benefits of ceramic coating the combustion chamber and piston tops.

"This looks like political commentary." No it doesn't.

If you are going to buy one, why not get the real one from the source? https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

I think your car is way more valuable with the period upgrades. It should drive much stiffer with better road-holding capabilities. I was going to go for a set of your wheels before Alan talked me into a set of Watanabes. I have adjustable camber bushings also. But I think you will enjoy your car much more set up the way you describe. The stuff you have on your car is just as valuable. I would keep the BRE options.

Joined here in 2003 after spending a couple of years with Carl's IZCC.

I have been buying a bunch of stuff from McMaster Carr lately. Their metric nut and bolt inventory is very good.

I notice E4125 on your document, Kats. But we were talking about E4126 as the early H.L. cover set? I'm confused.

Just returned from the body where I snapped these pics of 26th. The shape of the bracket for the master vac hose is not as defined as on 27th. Also, the tool bracket is not bent over like the bracket on 27th.