chaseincats

Weird - mine you can pop in and just spin around. No "keyed' edges on mine I believe...

So if this is accurate in terms of install direction and not just facing that direction for ease of drawing, that would mean that the float should be pointed to the front of the car?

Hi gang, Installing a new fuel sending unit (top loader for a '78 280z) but don't remember which direction the arm is supposed to face once installed (towards the front of the car/rear/left or right side). I keep bumping the internal bits of the tank during installation and once almost ran out of gas because the arm must have been jammed up against something in the tank denoting a full tank on the gas gauge. Any idea which way the arm is supposed to face once installed in the tank for a '78? -chase

whats the benefit of an ampmeter over a voltmeter?

Ah, ok gotcha. I thought the reverse checking assembly was datsun speak for the reverse switch. Thanks

Sounds good, thanks for the info I'll keep that in mind when dealing with the nut. Kind of confused regarding the reverse switch because that tranny rebuild PDF that has been making the rounds (attached) talks about it - but glad it seems to be wrong i guess! -chase Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

Hey gang, now that we got the shifter pin out, I'm putting together my bag-o-parts to reseal this transmission and have everything except for 2 bits which are NLA. - main shaft nut (right hand threaded one which is a 280z trans only part) - part number 32354-a7400 - reverse switch o-ring size 22x2.5mm - cant find part number Anyone have a source for these or know if they're really necessary?

wow, neither did I - very cool

sounds good - thanks

Quick question for you folks with a volt (not amp) meter. What does your guys' volt gauge read when its sitting off in the garage? Mine is sitting at a smidge over 12v - is that correct? It seems lower than I remember, but I could be wrong.

nice job!

I actually haven't seen the seal yet - that method is what I relayed to the person working on my trans. I believe its just a lip seal so you should be able to just pick it out

The shift rod comes out by pressing it through the end cap. We used a press to push it through but if you put it in a vice and give the end of the rod a few good wacks it should come out the other side, allowing you to swap out the grease seal.

What I believe the person working on my transmission did was wedge a block between the shaft and housing after removing the nut and stuck an air hammer in there. Blasted the pin right out.

yep thats the plan!

Update: Got it out with Dave's help. For those who want to know you put the housing in a vice and tap on the rod end gently and it will push the plug out undamaged and can be re-seated afterwords.

Right now I'm actually the middle-man. The guy whose working on it is about a half hour away and we're spitballing on how to get these seals put in. I'm going to see the part tomorrow

Also is it possible to even get that rod out without having to remove/destroy that pressed-in plug at the end (#21)?

Ya I was thinking that might be the culprit/would need to come out. Anyone have any experience getting that out to change the seal?

Ah, I took a look at the chart I was looking at and the seal is for the end plug or something?

32858-U6702

Yep, the reason we're trying to get it out is it leaks trans oil out of the shifter area. Besides the o-ring on the inside, the transmission diagram is showing an oil seal goes on the outside of the trans (between the housing and the part where the shift rod enters the housing), is that correct?

Hi guys, Refurbishing my '78 5-speed transmission and having a tough time removing the shifter rod from the tail housing. The (what looks like) outcrop from the shifter rod (shown in picture) refuses to separate from the shifter rod even after we take the nut and washer out. Is there a trick to getting this out? -chase

Update: so there wasn't any red stuff on wiper arm (not sure where I came up with that) but the wiper arm wasn't 100% pressed up against it. I heavily bent the arm so that it makes good contact with the coil wire now but that didn't seem to be it. I grounded out the connector to the gauge to see if it would peg as a full which would confirm the wiring and gauge were working and they are, which is good. I started jiggling stuff on the sender unit and the gauge started dying then coming back to life so it was an electrical connection issue between the harness and unit coil. What it ended up being (we think) was the rivet connector between the yellow power wire (from the harness) and the wire for the coil/wiper arm on the sender unit. I could spin the rivet inside the housing meaning there was a poor contact between the yellow power wire and the sender unit's coil wire. We put some solder on there to bridge the rivet with the wire's connector and it may have done the trick. If it still isnt working properly, then we're out of ideas - will update you guys later on. EDIT: I forgot to mention, I tested the float in a bucket of water and it worked with no problems

I believe its not firmly pressed up against it. When I get back in town I'll pop it out and report back