chaseincats
Free Member
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Joined
Everything posted by chaseincats
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thanks for the info guys. next time im at his place ill try these suggestions!
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Gotcha. The only place where dual filament bulbs should be are the top outer lights of each 280z style housing, correct? I remember that the only dual filament bulb in the whole car is plugged into the driver's side top outer bulb socket.
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Alright, I'll ask him to send over pictures. But do you mean that having single filament bulb where a dual *should* be would make a change as drastic as this to the way the car functions?
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Got an update for you guys: It seems the brake pedal has somehow been switched around such that when it is pressed, the running lights (side markers included) all turn on. When turning the running lights on via the combo switch and then hitting the brake pedal, all these lights brighten. We've been studying the FSM but are coming up empty here. Any ideas? -chase
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right, my vacuum advance is dead. I was wondering how/what I should set the car to to compensate for a lack of advance, does that make sense?
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I never set ignition timing when the car was outside of idle. Wouldn't getting timing to run at 35 degrees require twisting the distributor to quite a bit? After twisting it, wouldn't idle also be out of whack?
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@rcb280z Finally gave up on trying to fix this thing and am just going to go with a permanent advance. Do you mean that at idle (800) you set your distributor ignition timing to 35 degrees instead of 10? That seems like quite a bit, no? After doing that did you have a pretty rough idle?
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Thanks for this awesome write-up - I'll pass this along to my friend. It occurred to me today that I believe he does not have the firewall ground wire connected - could that be of consequence? Everything seems to *work* with it having been disconnected thus far...
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The car does run and the rate does not correlate to engine speed. The flasher relays are most likely original (that said so are mine and they work fine). There are no electrical modifications to the car and the bulbs remain incandescent. I have the FSM but I wasn't sure if the switch had a ground itself down the loom as there are quite a few ground symbols on its wiring diagram page.
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Will do - it's my friend's car so the next time I'm at his place I'll grab some shots.
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Hi guys, Working on a 1974 260z and ran into another weird lighting problem. The brake lights work as intended with the running lights off, but when the running lights are switched on, hitting the brake pedal does not brighten the rear lights. I checked the bulbs and the brake light bulbs are indeed dual filament like they should be. The odd thing is that when the running lights are switched on, both filaments are lit, that shouldn't be the case right (assuming one filament is for brake lights and the other is for running lights)? Any ideas as to how to get the brake lights to engage with running lights on?
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Hi guys, So got a weird one for you. We've been doing some work on a 1974 260z and the turn signals on the car don't blink in a standard rhythm. They randomly blink super quickly, super slowly, and everything in between when engaged with the signal stalk. I'm guessing this is a grounding issue with the turn signal stalk itself, right? I can't seem to find where the turn signal grounds out to , does anyone know? Any ideas? -chase
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If you rented it from your local parts store, it should have come with at least one in their box
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I still don't understand how the car is running w/o the fuel pump going
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totally understandable, let me know how it goes
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The problem is with your new clutch master not slave cylinder's piston length. Your clutch pedal is connected to a push rod (piston) which directly goes into your master cylinder. The piston you have is (probably) too short which is in turn not able to push enough fluid through the clutch hydrolic system to fully actuate the clutch fork thus disengaging the clutch enough to change gears. TL;DR: clutch master (not slave) piston length is most likely the item that isnt matching up to oem length. Compare the oem one you have on hand.
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In that case ya, it's your clutch master cylinder's pusher. Swap it out with the stock one you still have (I think you just need a pair of needle nose pliers that you can use to take off the snap-ring retainer clip).
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after swapping the master cylinder, did the clutch work at all w/o grinding?
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If you installed a new clutch master cylinder you need to swap the pusher rod (the metal bit that goes into the cylinder) because the reproductions are shorter for some reason (this was my problem). Also be sure its fully bled.
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Any luck finding the issue?
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Cool, I'll leave it as-is - thanks!
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Question for you - I've had a '78 280z for about 3 years and never changed the engine bay/gas tank fuel filters. When I look at the post gas tank clear fuel filter it looks brand new so I assume the filter in the engine bay is also looking great internally. Should I bother changing these even if they look brand new on the inside? I know these are cheap but if I don't need to change something I'd prefer not to break out the wallet.
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Here's a nice unsafe way to determine if fuel is somehow being pumped into the engine without your knowledge: unplug the fuel hose between the hardline and engine bay fuel filter, put it in a bucket, and have someone try and start the car (with the fuel pump switch off) and see if you get gas. You'll know real quick if theres some hidden pump somewhere (or if your switch isn't working/wired correctly)...
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The condenser definitely has a leak (the ac shop put dye in it) but said they couldn't solder the leak shut because the heat would just open a new hold due to the metal's age/weakness. That said, the machine they use at the store was able to get the AC charged to the point of it being proper cold which is why I don't understand why it won't take the whole can from the low side...
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Yep it was converted to 134a. The reason I think 20 isn’t enough is when my AC shop filled it up with their beefy machine the AC was freezing. With the 20lb I put in it was just coolish...
