chaseincats

If it's that tough, I may just send them back unfortunately.

Its the hex head on the chart

Hi guys, Not sure if any of you have tried installing the MSA bullet mirrors (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02e02/50-1178) but I'm having a bit of trouble here. They mount by way of 2 bolts with their hex head facing the inside of the door (basically the mirror is installed such that the bolt sandwiches the door between the mirror's threads and the hex head of the bolt which is located under the curvature of the top of the door. This seems incredibly difficult to install as you are basically holding the hex head inside the door and hoping you can find the threads of the mirror blindly so I'm figuring I must be doing something wrong. Anyone have any experience with these?

Awesome. This is a huge help - case closed

Actually hold on, isn't that dimple on the retainer ring and not the fuel sender unit itself?

great to know - I'll go give it a look, thanks!

Weird - mine you can pop in and just spin around. No "keyed' edges on mine I believe...

So if this is accurate in terms of install direction and not just facing that direction for ease of drawing, that would mean that the float should be pointed to the front of the car?

Hi gang, Installing a new fuel sending unit (top loader for a '78 280z) but don't remember which direction the arm is supposed to face once installed (towards the front of the car/rear/left or right side). I keep bumping the internal bits of the tank during installation and once almost ran out of gas because the arm must have been jammed up against something in the tank denoting a full tank on the gas gauge. Any idea which way the arm is supposed to face once installed in the tank for a '78? -chase

whats the benefit of an ampmeter over a voltmeter?

Ah, ok gotcha. I thought the reverse checking assembly was datsun speak for the reverse switch. Thanks

Sounds good, thanks for the info I'll keep that in mind when dealing with the nut. Kind of confused regarding the reverse switch because that tranny rebuild PDF that has been making the rounds (attached) talks about it - but glad it seems to be wrong i guess! -chase Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

Hey gang, now that we got the shifter pin out, I'm putting together my bag-o-parts to reseal this transmission and have everything except for 2 bits which are NLA. - main shaft nut (right hand threaded one which is a 280z trans only part) - part number 32354-a7400 - reverse switch o-ring size 22x2.5mm - cant find part number Anyone have a source for these or know if they're really necessary?

wow, neither did I - very cool

sounds good - thanks

Quick question for you folks with a volt (not amp) meter. What does your guys' volt gauge read when its sitting off in the garage? Mine is sitting at a smidge over 12v - is that correct? It seems lower than I remember, but I could be wrong.

nice job!

I actually haven't seen the seal yet - that method is what I relayed to the person working on my trans. I believe its just a lip seal so you should be able to just pick it out

The shift rod comes out by pressing it through the end cap. We used a press to push it through but if you put it in a vice and give the end of the rod a few good wacks it should come out the other side, allowing you to swap out the grease seal.

What I believe the person working on my transmission did was wedge a block between the shaft and housing after removing the nut and stuck an air hammer in there. Blasted the pin right out.

yep thats the plan!

Update: Got it out with Dave's help. For those who want to know you put the housing in a vice and tap on the rod end gently and it will push the plug out undamaged and can be re-seated afterwords.

Right now I'm actually the middle-man. The guy whose working on it is about a half hour away and we're spitballing on how to get these seals put in. I'm going to see the part tomorrow

Also is it possible to even get that rod out without having to remove/destroy that pressed-in plug at the end (#21)?

Ya I was thinking that might be the culprit/would need to come out. Anyone have any experience getting that out to change the seal?