duffymahoney

Old clutch slave decided to leak. It probably didn't like the nice new clean brake fluid:) NOS clutch slave, spring and hose going in today. I hope it this is the last thing that breaks for a while.

Trading most of them for things I want/ need. I will be left with just a set of triple 44s.

I have 11 Mikuni carbs:) I have been hoarding.

All great info. I wish I had a few more intakes to look at as far as linkage, location of arms etc... Next is test cutting it out of a plastic or perhaps aluminum. Im not worried about the holes going through and sealing, but that being said I like your idea of not having them go all the way. That would be easy to do. Cost will be more then current intakes. But this should look like a work of art when done. Customizable. Could be anodized, Racing logos, bores, the cad file could also be used for efi intakes. I don’t have the cad skills, a buddy is helping me and will sell these if anyone is interested. He has two amazing cnc mills. He owns prototype and design company and also his dad owns a super high end auto build shop.

They will be cnc’d It will be 3 pieces. All cnc’d, so they don’t need to match. Throttle shaft points can be moved. It’s a copy of the Harada. I studied a bunch of old manifolds and i think the harada has a good throttle linkage system. The plate/ bridge will have holes all the way though. The idea is it could be used for vacuum or a balance tube or ? But again it’s a one off so it could always change they won’t leak, it will all be npt threading. I love the feedback

Thanks! Next is my Mikuni triples. I am hopeful I like the sound of them and pull enough to leave this motor in the car. I am also designing up a cnc intake. Should be fun.

In and bleed. I bench bleed it first. As you can see I know why it failed. I have a new correct cap coming in the mail

https://www.upgrademotoring.com/

Just going to match them for now. Hopefully getting this done tonight, but my garage is too hot:)

Luckily mine is a very low mile z. So hopefully it's just remove pin, remove CMC. Bench bleed, install, bleed etc...

I have been driving it every chance I get. I enjoy it so much. Ac blows cold enough, but the fan is so loud I mostly prefer driving with the windows down. Last week I pressed the clutch in, and boom, warm clutch fluid squirted onto my leg. Then the clutch wouldn't do much. I luckily was close to home and a few pumps I could get it in first. So now it's time to change the clutch master. Which is a first for me. Luckily LynchBurg Nissan had a Nos one. They still make this part but it looks a little different.

Got a link to the exhaust system?

I meant nikki:) The stock fuel pump.

New Old Stock.

Thank you. The seal from the GMB 550-8040 tore. So I had to buy another Nos lizzy from another datsun. Oh well.

Thank you! I’m having a lot of fun. I have used several zinc shops over the years. I would suggest a local shop since shipping gets expensive. I use a shop in Spokane wa or Portland Oregon most of the time. I built my own vapor blasting rig. I did a detailed thread on here about it.

I tore a seal on the shaft of the fuel pump. The one that keeps gas from going in the head in case of an rip and keeps oil from the engine bay out of the fuel pump. Someone said the GMB 550-8040 was exactly the same inside. That isn’t true but it’s close. Their seal is actually a better design and works and should function perfectly. So now 3 fuel pumps to make one nikki pump. Still I’m below 100$ total into the project. She looks amazing.

Vapor blasted my 2nd e31 Head. This one also has some casting issues. Hopefully less this time.

Vapor blasting sure does wonders.

Working on a Nikki fuel pump for my series 1. My 240z didn’t come with the original fuel pump. Bought this one on eBay and also a nos one from Datsun 500 for 30$. The plan is to use the screws and all the rubber gaskets and internals. It’s a little more haggered then I would have wanted. Hopefully it comes out nice. The internals of the pumps are identical. I will vapor blast the 240z Nikki body and it should look brand new. I am using this write up for guidance. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50679-rebuilding-the-nikki-fuel-pump/

Thanks! It's been fun, I love having a paint job I don't care about. I can actually use the car:)

Did you get new seals or did you re glue them?

My tech buddy thinks I should put gauges on it again around 70-75 outside temp. He wants around 30 psi on the low side. To prevent freezing.

I believe I will pick flag orange. It matches other inside areas better.

So far no leaks. Pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes, then I let it sit for 1 hour, no loss of vacuum. I then pulled a vacuum for another hour. Then begin filling. I ended up doing r134a, because compressor is setup for it. Also my buddy that is a tech told me to do that as well. I first overfilled the system, I was using a 5 gallon jug of 134, and it moved faster than I would have guessed. Now while running with a bumped idle and 60 degrees outside temp,I have about 19- 22 or so on the low side psi, and 145-155 on the high side. Which is in the chart for R134a. The system only has one sight glass, and it's kind of crappy. My tech buddy said to try it on a hot day going 60 next. The system was working well and pushing 42-44 degree air out of the vents! They felt much cooler then that though.