jonbill
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Everything posted by jonbill
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I read it as: Oil pressure was observed to be "high", relief valve was removed or Modified and then it started smoking. -
Does it smoke at idle or only at higher revs? What colour smoke? The idle relief should do its job before 80 psi.
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Those pics don't really look like an oil burner to me, unless its only just started. It just looks like it's been running too rich.
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I think that's better. The Webers will be happier with more static advance. You could go even further and take out a few mm of range in the centrifugal advance limiter.
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I used to use a pertronix igniter and it had similar misfire problems over 6k. I'd try a 280zx distributor if you can borrow one from somebody near.
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Thanks, very nice.
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Is that the AZC kit? Looks good.
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Running different jets in different venturi is only masking the real problems, if it helps at all. I think you have a couple of different problems. I bet they're not balanced properly which will cause the idle problems, and secondly the main circuit isn't starting right at the limit of the progression holes so goes lean before the main circuit starts. The bigger idle jets fill the gap there but it'll be rich during the progression phase. Smaller chokes or perhaps changing the emulsion tube will get the main circuit to start earlier. Which emulsion tubes do you have?
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This can take up a lot of slack: https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-twin-idler-gear-earl-s-blue-l6.html
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None of it sounds like the diff to me - diff clunks and bangs are a deeper note. This is more like something hitting the exhaust. Maybe.
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Is the sound constant? Does it change depending whether you're going straight ahead or turning? Is it speed related or does change when you change gear? Can you post a recording? I'd describe a diff with the pinion shaft moving in the housing as sounding like a wheel of fortune. But that won't be constant, and would imply that you've got two dead diffs.
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I meant skimming [emoji4] yeah, I wasn't 100% sure whether it retarded or advanced. Having thought again I agree with you, it'll retard it.
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Any amount you change the cam height affects the timing. Slimming the head a small amount I think advances the timing a small amount. This can be adjusted for with the 3 dowel jokes on the sprocket, or an adjustable sprocket. The limit of this is the amount of chain Slack the tensioner can take up which may be somewhere around. 75mm for the standard tensioner. Cam tower shims aren't the only remedy for it though - there are alternate tensioners you can get (from Kameari for example) which can handle more Slack in the chain.
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If you've got it that far stripped, I'd always clean it and put new bearings in, give it a hone and new rings. It's fun!
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Yeah, I saw that. I mentioned carbs because they have their own local reservoirs and will continue to work until the reservoirs empty. EFI only has residual pressure in the fuel supply line which isn't going to give as much as carbs.
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Pretty sure car with triple carbs won't run for 8-10 mins with the fuel pump off, and the carbs of course have quite big reservoirs. Any chance this car has got two fuel pumps?
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They won't be too cold. So not that then!
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What spark plugs are they? If they're too cold then they can foul at idle and cause misfire until they're back in the self cleaning temp range and clean again.
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Could be running rich from too much fuel pressure. Idle going up to 1000 when you turn the pump off supports this and the dark exhaust could be fuel not oil. Is the fuel pump & fpr giving the right fuel pressure?
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Early R200s are the same. There's a little roll pin that holds the pinion shaft in the diff case that shears and the pinion shaft moves around, beating its seat as you say. Makes a regular knocking sound as you drive especially round corners. . It's easy enough to fix by driving the broken pin out and sticking a new one in.
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It shouldn't be silicone, the vent baffle originally has some hard light coloured material holding it, but it quite often breaks off so people might be tempted to replace it with silicone.
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Does it fire when you're cranking the starter but stops firing when the key returns to on?
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Maybe there's nothing wrong with the carbs and the new HG is leaking coolant into #6
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I have these heat shields on my Dellortos. https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellorto-car-carburettors-parts/parts/dhla-parts/des12-dellorto-dhla-stainless-steel-heat-sheild/ They work fine. I previously had a large tray dividing exhaust from inlet which worked too, but made everything very inaccessible on that side.
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Each carb has a return spring, I think it's under the cover on the manifold face of the carb. The linkage should also have a return spring. (the carb springs are strong enough to return the carbs not the linkage) I'd take each carb off and make sure they open and close properly on their own before investigating further. If the carbs open and close OK then your linkage is binding up somewhere. It may just need a return spring or it may need adjusting. Or both. The page linked above (or alt least the books referenced there) have guides for correctly setting the linkage.
