Ed

4. Take your car to the car wash and use their steamcleaner. 3. After you strip the engine you can either wash the internals yourself with some cleaning solvent or you can take it all to an engine shop and have it hot-tanked. They will also clean your pistons for about 5 bucks each. 2. There are a few books available that have a detailed outline on how to rebuild or modify your Datsun/Nissan engine. MSA has a few books that will help. But to get you started you should also pick up a factory service manual like a Chiltons or Hayes. 1. You will need alot of tools. Mostly metric. But a basic socket and wrench set from 6mm-21mm will get you started. What ever you decide to do, do your homework first. Get the books and read, read, read. Nothing is worse than doing all this work only to have it blow up. Good luck

Piston to bore size is very critical. Too much clearance and the piston can wiggle leaving scars on the cylinder wall, causing premature wear and can also effect compression. Not enough clearance and the piston can sieze in the cylinder. You must also remember that the piston will expand as will the cylinder but because one is made of aluminium and the other of iron you will have different expansion rates. $.02

I'm just guessing here but it looks almost like that area is discoloured because of heat. Like it gets too hot for carbon to build up. I don't know. One way to check for blow-by would be to inspect the cylinder walls. There might be dark patches along the cylinder wall where the ring isn't making contact thus allowing blow-by.

Whoever e-mailed the seller on this one got the listing changed. It now shows it's a 73! And the seller has included the VIN> Sorry wrong thread. Please disregard.

Allmost sounds like the "headlights dim at idle" problem. I remember reading somewhere that swapping to a Maxima alternator will solve the headlight problem, don't know about the flashers.

Though installing a five speed is pretty easy there is more to it than you might think. You must also install a clutch pedal (which I think requires the entire brake clutch pedal assembly thingy), a master cylinder that bolts to the firewall. And run the line to the slave cylinder on the tranny. Also you will need a different center console. I'm probably forgetting something since I've never done this. Good luck.

You could try your local Nissan dealer. There are also a few places that should have them. Then again some of us might have a few nuts laying around. To help you better tell us where you are located?

The bad news, the answer to your question would be, yes. That would be pretty dangerous. This is the rust you can see. Imagine how much you can't see. You could hit a bump on the road and loose it. The frame rails look like they are gone along with the floor boards. Take a small tip screwdriver and start poking, push it against the metal and see if you can push it through. The good news, believe it or not but that is repairable.:classic:

I would suggest you take the block to an experienced engine builder. They can sonic test the cylinder wall thickness and tell you exactly how much it can be bored over. They would also be able to help you select the correct piston for you to achieve the compression ratio you are seeking.

Jack up the front of your Z at the crossmember. Leave the drivers window down. With both front tires in the air turn the steering wheel. You should be able to turn it with one finger.

Where did you go to get the allignment? We need to stay away from those crooks!

My 73 (which was a california car) had 2 pumps. One electric by the tank which from the looks of the wireing looks factory. And another mechanical pump on the head.

If your lucky and the set up is spot on, maybe... 180-200 hp. It all depends on the tune.

First I have to see if it works. Then I will probably sell it.

If you do want to check the oil properly pour it into a clear plastic recepticle like a one gallon water jug. Make sure the plastic is clear and not smoked. Let it sit for a couple of hours after you fill it. If you do have water mixed with the oil it will be visible.

Brain fart. I forgot the picture.

I picked up a 72 and it had this radio. Is this a factory radio?

Break out the questions.:classic:

Don't worry Enrique, I could read your stuff forever. I learn something new everytime.:classic:

Good question, I'm also rebuilding a '81, F54. I have been using the torque specs specified in my service manual which has specs for L24-L28 70-78. I hope they are the same. BTW you shouldn't re-use the rod bolts. I would highly recommend either getting some new ones or go with ARP.

I always thought that removing paint could be done with a D/A and 60 grit without scratching or warping. Enrique, how would you recommend removing or preping the body for a fresh paint job. As far as I know my car has been repainted only once.

I couldn't agree with you more. Maybe have them do a radical change like NO wings, No carbon fiber, and a max HP of 500 or so.

Good to see you guys going. How will I be able to ID you?

You also have the vin # engraved on the firewall, drivers side below the cowl.