Dave WM

Quart to a gallon? that's a lot of oil. anyway I am pretty sure you just need to use mineral oil designed for use with R12. this assume you have a stock system that has never been switched over to R-134 (often done considering the age of these cars, a common practice was to convert after R-12 was no longer used sometime in the mid 1990's). So make sure you know what you have before adding oils or refrigerents as the two types (12 and 134) of freons and oils are not compatible. You may want to do some research on ester oils if you are unsure and just want to add oil due to a leak out of oil. Some details on what your are doing would help (conversion, full recharge, repair, replacement of parts etc....). Example https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-1-quart-bottle-mineral-r12-w-o-dye-w-o-parrafin-sold-by-each-59000/20891190-p?product_channel=local&store=9308&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=9308&gclid=CjwKCAjw_LL2BRAkEiwAv2Y3SfO9u8ORqhQYzALS54Zgp6sql9jkTBwAa2E_aCQFCGzjXSt3Hi9Z8RoCrfoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

That other stuff you have circled, yes it looks like someone has been in there, and used a tad too much sealant. If I was doing another I would be tempted to use one of the anaerobic types vs the silicone types. Either way avoid using too much. I don't think it will really cause any issues unless it went on real thick and was allowed to setup too long, creating some end play issues with everything buttoned up. Just a thin coat is all that is needed. See the circled in yellow, that is the seal I am talking about

in the video one of the bearings had a seal on one side, there should be no seals there, just the open ball bearing and cages. Talking about the bearings in the adapter plate. you can see it clearly in that last pic of the post above, the bearing has a black plastic seal see just behind the small gear on the counter shaft. Unless that is an optical effect. you need to see if the balls and the cage can be seen from the same angle.

The little gutter is pretty delicate, when you get the new replacement you have to fold up the end cap that seals one side, the metal used is much softer from what was installed in mine, it would not take a lot to bend it out of shape or mess it up in general, just install it last just before you are ready to close up the trans (but don't forget it of course) this will help keep it safe from handling damage. I would buy 2 just to be safe incase you dork one some how in the process. One other word of caution, I cant say this for sure but there maybe an early ZX 5 speed that did not use the CCW tightening nut on the rear of the main shaft, if you have one that tighten CW you want to preserve it as much as possible as I think they are hard to source. I presume Nissan changed from that due to the self loosening tendency of a reg nut.

I tried searching and reading the FSM and the rebuild book. They touch on it but I am pretty dim witted so.... piston 12 o clock is the front of the piston as if it was installed in the engine. So example the piston pin is front 12 o'clock and back 6 o'clock Gaps at o'clock please 1) bottom oil control ring at " " o'clock 2) oil ring expander ring at " " o'clock 3) top oil control ring at " " o'clock 4) bottom compression ring at " " o'clock 5) top compression ring at " " o'clock

looks like the adapter plate counter shaft bearing has a seal on it. I don't think that is a good idea, pretty sure that is supposed to be an open bearing. You would want gear oil to freely flow through out the trans. I don't know if I would tear it down just to replace that, or try to pick it out, or just leave it. the trans looks good after all.

ah that explains it! well you can just make it by saving the approx. 12" bypassing the seat mount bump out.

the actual wire that connects the antenna to the radio that is. I decided to replace my orig as it had broken and I fixed with a splice. Radio reception not being that sensitive I decided to go the route of starting with replacing that, just in case I was having a loss due to the splice. Anyway bought 12ft thinking that should be plenty (and was the longest in stock at AZ). Removing the seat and safety belt reel, the metal cover by the door sill and of course the plastic rear quarter cover give you access. there are several attachment hold downs that secure the wire along its route, so I decided to just undo the old and put in the new at the same time to keep the lead dress the same. I was surprised to find the 12 ft cable about 1ft short of the end destination. I used the old cable taped for security to the new one to fish it thru the rear most section. this save you having to pull the piller trim and maybe the smaller rear quarter plastic. just make sure you have a good tape joint. there are NO hold downs after the 1st one right at the end until you are past the piller and the seat belt mount. I went back and made sure I had all the slack out as best as possible AND re routed the portion that went under the seat mount (there is just enough room to snake it thru a channel at the side of the seat mount/floor joint. With that I had an inch or so to spare. Reception is not really any better, but at least I know its not the antenna cable. When things get cooler I will pull the radio and do a alignment check. The AM is fine (not that there is much to listen to) but the FM struggles to pull in moderately strong signals. Maybe its just the way it is, but after 45 years I can see how perhaps something has drifted in the IF stage or RF tuning. A 14 ft cable would be much easier to work with, the orig cable was more that 12ft (measured) but not sure exactly due to the splice that I had added.

just redo an S30 with an updated inline 6 and be done with it, and buck the trend, make it standard shift. Another old fart putting in my 2 cents. If it looked like that I would more likely buy a 1gen fastback mustang body and make my own car. At least you have an endless supply of parts that way.

have you inspected the wire connection blocks from the combo/dimmer assembly?

infinite resistance, an open circuit. Your vacuum should be connected to brake booster port or some other manifold vacuum, you have it connected to ported vacuum, not correct for the reading of manifold vacuum. I suspect its all working as it should, how does it drive?

only thing diff between N and all the other gears engaged is the output shaft not coupled to any of the syncro hubs. So all the gears as spinning around on needle bearings, the counter shaft and input shaft are spinning on ball bearings, lots of action but for the turning of the output shaft (2 ball bearings not engaged). My guess is its just normal noise that is masked by lots of other noises that are there in any other gear. It really is a matter of degree of loudness as to whether there is a real problem or not. You can do a pretty good inspection of the gears once the case is split, and the forward counter shaft bearing (the small one) is not too hard to remove and replace if you suspect it. The main adapter plate is a LOT more involved, I would look for signs of actual failure or excessive radial play before diving into those bearings. Don't get me wrong its actually kind of fun to work on them, just saying you could end up doing a lot of work just to find out its still going to make some noise.

looks very clean, what kind of oil do you use?

I assume you are staying in contact (with pics above) with the supplier just to make sure everything looks right. It looks like the cut out (for the floor pan) is long enough from the pic, just too far aft for the start and finish points. Not that that's a big deal just wondering.

I can see how the design looks to be welded over the existing or at least using the bottom 1/3 of the existing frame rail to weld too. No provision for direct attachment to the floor.

is this the video you mentioned in our call

Must be Rodney Dangerfields Z car..

tried calling no answer. call me lets talk this over some.

here is a thought, depending on your welding skill, get some sheet steel, try cutting and patching, I would do that just to see if I can weld well enough, Practice on the patch. IF it all looks good and you find no other evidence of rust with the bore scope you have a win. IF the patch process turns into a cluster, then you still have the rails that you can give a try or find a welder with the skill level needed. My only exp with welding is a cheapo HF flux core welder I used for some exhaust work, I had no idea what I was doing, but after a LOT of welding and grinding off bad welds it came out pretty well. I did a butt weld to round thin tube used in the exhaust, prob not the easiest 1st time MIG. So really depends on your skill level what you want do to.

OTC is nice, harbor freight is cheap, sure either is fine. you have to let the engine warm up some, same with compression testing, warm engine will give better results. Typical to be 16-22. Altitude effects it as well, higher alt, lower vacuum. I don't think you have a smoking gun yet. Try smoking the engine for a leak test. I prefer this to the spraying flammable fluids around it. Block off the throttle body with a foam cup, get a stogie and blow smoke into a pipe connected to the intake manifold (brake booster fitting works well). look for smoke. Sneaky things like PVC or EGR and create lean runs. missing or damaged fuel injectors rubbers, cracked hoses around intake. Smoke will find them the best. For EGR you may have to remove the valve and just make sure its clean and that the diaphragm is operational.

In four days I might add.. up and back with a couple day layover in Phenix city AL. I was going 70-80 most of the time 18hrs a day also no radio (lost that in KS, turned out to just be a sticky of off switch), lost brakes somewhere in Arkansas (my bad after not properly tighten up brake line fitting after replacing a rear brake slave), timing chain guide lasted till the return trip in TN, did not even know it and continued on home. Next up is the tail of the dragon, then the big'un, Alaska via the ALCAN hiway. I thing the only real issue for making long trips is to replace that guide if it looks worn at all.

another question, does your car have a altitude adjuster for the EFI?

did you check the fuel pressure? what were the numbers, engine off, pump on and engine on with a vacuum reading as well.

beside social distancing can we try car distancing, WAY too much tail gating going on. and one more how about smart phone distancing, like away from you while driving.. I went out for supplies today, so many stupid driving, even with less cars on the road they tailgate like crazy and are all over the road while doing what I call the head bobble, look down, look up, look down, look up all the time weaving in the lane... I wonder how many annual traffic fatalities are a result of smart phone(distracted driving) use and tail gating. I was out driving a few months ago to the motorcycle off road park in the suburban, 2 lane road, guy is passing coming head on at me, ignoring the double yellow line, I had my lights on, guess he was in a hurry (everyone drives at least 10 mph over the posted limit, guess that is not enough for some) I got real lucky as a bridge was right where it needed to be for me it had a wide curb side that allowed me to move over and let the idiot pass, it was close I mean the bridge was not that long and our combined speeds had to be in excess of 100 mph. I did every thing I could think of, mainly seeing the bridge and getting on the brakes hard enough to slow down and meet him right in the middle of it. what a moron...