sblake01

You might not weaken the structure by 'installing' a V8 but unless you do some reinforcement you will weaken the structure by driving that V8Z!

It sounds like you guys are talking about the b/y wire that connects to the press-on terminal on the solenoid. All that wire does is link the ignition switch with the starter. Without it the car won't start but it's not a fusible link just a wire. At least that's how it is on my 78Z and 79 810. It comes directly out of the wiring harness and neither car has been altered.

Do it! (But don't lose the stock wheels & hubcaps!)

A V8Z is really not a good idea either, for the same reason-- Unibody construction. To do either 'properly' you need to do some structural reinforcing. That gets back to that 're-engineering' of the car. I have torches and welders, etc. but I am not an automotive engineer. In my opinion, T-Tops and V8s are for cars that originally had them.

Thanks, Alan. I come here to learn and once again, I have! I had always associated RHD with the rally cars. Interesting that in the letter to Keith, they say "We had some questions ourselves but when we directly asked the director of Nissan Italia, he insisted that this was the car." In the letter to me they say " . . but we didn't have serious doubts until the article had gone to press . . "

Here is the reply they sent me. It has been saved to my computer, scanned, and it is clean. re_ datsun s30 rally car.txt

I, too have emailed Mr. Annis and am awaiting his response.

Sunroofs on series one Zs aren't really my cup of tea but since there is already one present on your car, your modification is much more preferable to what is already there. It could actually be pretty nice if done right.

I don't know. In twenty years of working off and on with L24E and L28E engines, I've never known a fuel pressure regulator to go bad. But the electronic bits; thermotime switch, air pressure reg., water temp sensor, thermal transmitter, cold start valve, etc., I alwas keep at least a couple of each on hand tested and ready to go.

No body is venting on you. I believe his question was would he notice the hp freed up by removing the stock fan. I was simply trying to answer that. Rather than sticking things in the radiator, drilling holes for senders, tie wrapping senders to your radiator hose, relying on a manual switch Id prefer to let the car work the way it was designed to. Cars that overheat because of the fan clutch either have an inferior aftermarket one or a malufunctioning factory one. Just my opinion based on my experiences not a rant or a vent. Sorry you took it that way.

Somehow, I think you are talking about the AIR regulator. If you disconnect the hose from the FUEL pressure regulator, the car shouldn't run at all. If you suspect a fuel pressure problem, perform the fuel pressure test outlined in the FSM. The problem you described at the beginning of this thread leads me to the thermotime switch/cold start valve combination. Have you checked those yet?

I have known people to drill and tap a hole in the water outlet and mount the temp sender for their electric fan there. Seems to me if you have the skills to do it that way it would be much more accurate.

If you haven't bought one yet, I looked through my stuff and found 4 of them. I've just finished testing them on my car and they all work. If you want one let me know. I'll let you have it for postage.

Check you Air Regulator. Sometimes called an 'Auxiliary Air Valve'. If it was originally a California car, also check the Altitude Switch.

I read somewhere that the transition to having a sway bar was 2/73. Based on Carl and ChrisA's response, it must have been sometime druing the month. That's why it's so hard to pin down some of these things. So many things about the early cars are not clear cut.

I have a setup to convert LP's to CD and lots of LP's. What are you missing?

Turbo and F.I. The real fun is about to begin!

If it take a few times to start up especially when it's cold you need to look into the thermotime switch/cold start valve combination.

daddz, I just can't break it down that way. What I like to listen to doesn't change because I'm in a Vette or a Z or a pickup truck. I don't need to assimilate what was happening then, I was there! I would enjoy Burbeck (Paul Desmond) in a 350z as much as I would in a Duesenberg. But I wouldn't enjoy 50cent in either.

I understand your meaning when you say that. But, you'll always get argument from someone. I use the stock fan/clutch on both my cars and a 180 deg thermostat. I live in SoCal. No overheating problems. You have to make sure you have the correct clutch. Nissan used Atsugi fan clutches. In some cases they used Ampco fan clutches. Those are the only ones I would ever use. Under no circumstances would I use one from Autozone, Kragen, Pep Boys, etc. I'm sure the Datsun Engineers wouldn't have put a device on their vehicles if it didn't perform properly. Remember these parts, if original, are 20 to 30+ years old. New ones or at least properly working ones do work. As far as the 10% hp increase thing, I'm not driving a race car so what good is that?