sblake01

$2.39 for 87 and $2.59 for 91 and still, apparently, climbing. (10/18/04)

Like I said, seek help or it could get frustrating and costly.

Mine had a GA16DE with a 5 spd. Better than a E16 but no match for the SR20DE/DET. I had a Jim Wolf intake on mine with the 96 Sentra cams, a tricked out ECU and a header. Ran pretty good. The price was right ($800US) at the auction and I put maybe $600 more into it in parts and work but I'm just not a FWD type of guy. Sold it for $2800!

If you're just pulling the cam, the 'dizzy' (I hate that term for a distributor) stays in. Use a chain wedge on the cam chain before you remove the bolt and pulley. If you use the mark on the pulley as a guide you wont have to mess with the dist., oil pump, or any of that madness. Talk to some people that have done it before you start tearing things apart. It's not a job for a beginner. Could get frustrating and costly.

You say in your eBay ad that it's similar(?) to the manuals for other years of Z's? If it's a 72 manual then it's only for a 72.

Well, I know you don't want to hear it, but the cam can be removed without doing all of that. None of that stuff i.e. oil pump, fan, dist, timing plate, chain, would have to be removed.

They are wierd! I had a 91. No sunroof but I just couldn't get past that shape!

One area to look at also is the themotime switch/cold start valve. A stuck closed thermotime switch or a leaking cold start valve will cause the car to run rich.

Oh, no! :eek:

Just a hunch since I've had it happen on both of my L engine f.i. cars. Check the temperature sensor. That's the one on the water neck closest to the distributor. A bad connection there can cause the symptoms you've described. It could also be a bad temp sensor I guess but cleaning the connection cured the problem on both of my cars.

I didn't mean old wasn't good. The Z is old and it's good. I'm old and. . .well, you can't have everything!

In high school, we had a family with that last name. Brother and sister. The sister seemed to get more of a ribbing. :classic:

Haynes calls it a 'bonnet stay'

In Florida, they require the car's color to be on the registration? Not so in California. And, don't worry Vicky, this thread is already off topic. We went from sun/targa tops to Supras to paint jobs.

Come on Bill, the 'wousy' joke is older than me! (like the others)

I've used both Brasso and No Touch Auto Glass Stripper. They both will remove most any kind of stains/residue but they don't do anything about scratches and pits.

How long would that motor live with a 9.5 c.r. and 16psi boost?

Tires can dry rot, even from the inside. If I buy a vehicle that has been sitting for a long period of time, one of the first things to be replaced is the tires, no matter how good they look. They may have been repaired or full of slime/seal-n-air, etc. It's just not worth the hassle.

I have a J16 but they're talking about a vehicle based on the 410/411 aren't they? EDIT: After thinking about it, I don't think the 410/411 came out until 64. So it must be a 320 based 'ute'.

I can fully relate to what BG says in his reply. I have been through that when selling cars in the past. Maybe eBay is the wrong avenue for him. I know it would be for me.

Not really because when you bid you're accepting the terms and conditions set by the seller.