sblake01

That tip works on EFI cars too.

Both cars fit. What you can't tell in the pic is that there's about 6 feet between either wall and the left side of the Z and the right side of the truck and about 8 feet behind them. Plus it has high ceilings. To this day, my wife doesn't realize that, for me, that was the main determining factor when we bought this house.

Or you could have just used the sleeve that goes with the late model trans.

I guess Mr. Sutton was bored. He coulld have brought back just about anything but why a thread based on that man's twisted reasoning and logic?

That may all be true but I'd rather use my HVLP gun. Constant pressure no matter what angle you spray from.

I'd clamp it in my drill press, drill out the stud and put another one in.

A bad EGR valve or plugged EGR passages in the manifold can cause a high NO reading (most likely). If the EGR system is not working properly it will raise the NO reading. You can also have the cat tested to see if it is working properly but that usually doesn't cause such an extreme reading. Also an engine running above normal operating temperature due to cooling system problems etc. or the timing being off can also raise the NO but gemerally not to that extent. I did notice on the report that is passed the visual and functional EGR test but that doesn't take into account the there may be 'crud' in the passages. Also the timing seems to be too far advanced. (18 deg. BTDC)

I don't have a problem with Rustoleum. It's just an industrial enamel. But I wouldn't use a rattle can. They can be too inconsistent when you have to spray at diferent angles. You can buy Rustoleum in 1/2 pint, quart, and gallon cans and use a touch up or regular spary gun.

That's basically the story with my cars. I go to the shows more for the comraderie than the competition. I think my cars are 'nice' but that doesn't win shows. There are a lot of 'nice' Zs and nobody really cares one way or another for the 810. It's no Skyline! I do, however, have four first place plaques for the truck.

You should definately see fuel spurting out under those conditions. At that point, it's unregulated and should fill that jar pretty quickly. The problem could also be in the circuit that controls the fuel pump. You can make your own fuel pressure gauge with a brass tee, an couple of 1/4" hose barbs for 5/16" hose, and a gauge availavle at most any hardware store and it'll cost much less than anything you can buy at an auto parts store. I've been using one like that for years.

Those are Interpart LiftLouvers. I have some on my 810. They haven't been made for years and the company is out of business. I ended up buying another louver for an unknown vehicle just to get the locks to replace the ones on mine that had broken. Bought it at a yard sale for 5 bucks. It was kind of beat up but the locks were good and it even had a couple of extra 'keys'. Those 'locks' are plastic and really not made very well so you have the be careful with them even with the key. I much prefer the setup on my Chastain Shadow louver on my Z but those can't be adapted to the Interpart louvers.

Am I the ony one here that doesn't care for the 'asthetics' of carbon fiber?

For that price, they better be really well made! I hope you didn't join a Classic Z Car club just to sell those. Is that the price for one? I don't need to have such easy access to another 'Anything Datsun for profit' type source. I can find those anywhere.

It will be if the distributor drive is correctly mounted. This is such basic stuff.

Having put a new fuel pump on and the pressure regulator is okay although that's not really how you test it but it wouldn't regulate the pressure down to 10 psi anyway, I think you still have a problem with the tank. How did you clean it?

I hope you mean it does that when you not driving it. The problem is in the ignition cylinder. Combination of the tumbler itself being worn and the steering lock mechanism being worn. When right, you shouldn't be able to remove the key in any position but lock and the lock won't lock in any position but the lock position with the key pulled anywhere from about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to completely out of the ignition.

Didn't Nissan do a reisssue of that manual in 1997?

It's not a cylinder head temperature sensor on the water outlet. That's just a water temperature sensor. Different setups after 1979. There's actually no place to plug in a CHTS on a 280Z.

The order of the cables is fine. It's just that picture number two has the distributor rotated farther counterclocwise.

No, you fail. Look at the car next to the Z in two top pictures.

So, all you need to do is pull the distributor, pull the dist. drive shaft, reposition it so the rotor points at one where it should, set wires up right and then you'll be done. Otherwise you'll have a tough time when you try to find the marks with a timing light.

One way to tell if you have a later than 1977 AFM is to look at the connection on it. If it appears to be missing one terminal it's a 78 or later, if it has all 6 of them it's a 75-77.

Water pump, the pulleys, tensioners, and seals in the front of the heads. That's what I did on our 94 Infiniti J30 along with the timing belt but that's a VG30DE so it would be a little easier on an 86.

There are two caps. A taller one and a shorter one and rotors to go with them. You can use either set as long as they match. You'll know if you put the short cap over the tall rotor because it won't go all the way on but if you put the tall cap over the short rotor, it will fit but the rotor won't be close enough to reach the cap's contacts. I found this out a few years ago because my Z has the shorter combo and my 810 has the taller combo.

VG30E timing belt is not that hard to change. Lots of dissambly but not as hard as the later VG30DE, having done them both.