dutchzcarguy

A simple test to see if your rear hatch seals are doing the job well is some small strips of paper between the rubber and the hatch door.. If you close the hatch and you can easely pull the paper out.. then you have a leak there! 😮

Interesting.. i ask myself as i have the original part.. are the originals also coated in a weld through paint/primer? I know that i have one left skin.. original nissan with the number on it. Out of my (gigantic) foto records/archives .. i believe these pics are from that left side skin.. I hope you can use these to compare.. as i was looking for these in the files pile for 20 minutes at least pfff... 🤢 Watch careful as the top pic's are from the inside!, next one is outside.. (with the 260z partnumber.)

Eh..?? Where are they?? Is my computer "kaput"? 😮

Often some PO just used bigger fuses and that's catastrophical for wiring.. never ever use bigger fuses and take care of contacts because dirty contacts make heat and distroy wiring harnesses also.

On #375 from Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883 you see a video of a manual body, and the requested location of the part!

Hahaha... A painterdocument of 21 pages long! Well done! Now he knows what to do and what is asked from him! I told my painter... JUST paint the Damn Thing.. and do it RIGHT! I think your car is gonna be one of the best restorations! Kudos to you!

Also.. let them know it's a re-useable box, so they don't make a mess of your engine-box!

Put the engine on a block of wood, that's under the oilpan edge and under the standard mounts, then put it complete in a box made of plywood and do not use nails but glue it together and use screws to put it all together, make a "floor" part and a "cap" part so they can take it apart and not distroy it. they can use it again to send it back to you. you can screw the top or use bands to keep the floor and top together what ever you prefer! Nice to hear your resto is going well! 👍 Mart

A hillbilly way to make it airtight is.. clean it.. (degrease it) then a little drop of oil but only on the middle part. then a blob of silicone or malleable glue over it. When the glue is dried open the valve by hand a few times. Leak fixed.. but this workes only on that side of the carb .. 😢

As your parts are "not often seen parts" @HS30-H you can put them also in this topic.. 😉

Also on that same attic (in my garage ) a brand new 300zxtt exhaust.. original nissan.. 3 pieces (mid and left and right end piece) i think that's another 3 grand? oeps!..

That's part nr: 43 on this exploded view.. if anyone is interessted in a complete nr: 41 set of left and right. brandnew.. i got a set.. 😉 I ditched the original boxes and i have painted them an extra layer of black but they are never used complete front legs.. (sorry not for cheap..) ( Sorry, no pics of them as they lay on a attic over (above) the 4 post lift and has not easy access.. )

Yeah, thanks! I took them (the measurements) over.. more or less from the old wheel.. i drawed some lines on my wheel and took a black&decker-powerfile to make the "fingers" turned out to be more easy then i thought it would be.. i got a perfect grip on the wheel.

Nice! Looks a bit like mine that i made myself.. (i prefer my light color.) I made a matching shiftknob on a lath from the same mahogany wood as the wheel. Does the wheel have the ridges for your fingers, can't see them in your pic's? You can clearly see the "fingers"in the wheel.. much apriciated as there is no powersteering! It's made of 12 pieces of mahogany wood.. some waterresistant wood glue and some 2 comp. glue to glue it to the steel wheel inside.

It's the smallest ring that has some damage.. i would paint that one black and polish the rest.. you be surprised how nice they are when polished. All that green stuff is removed easely.. (it's the copper in there that makes them greenish..) Take a small drillbit in your small powerdrill and put some cotton around it and polish away..

Nothing fake about that chrome.. it's real chrome!! (it's damped (Vapor deposited?) on the plastic..) btw.. i don't know if the knob is removable, take some good lighting and a lot of patience, maybe you see how it's constructed.. and see a way out.

I think these Japanese cars have the metric system on wiring.. so you need 2,5 mm2 wires for the headlights, actually 2 mm2 would be sufficient but i think they are 2,5mm2 (house wiring over here is often 2,5mm2.. good for 16 amps) If you are gonna use the H4 lamps of 65 watt a piece then you have no trouble at all.

Yeah right!

It says: "Remove brake drum adjust hole plug" What beautiful english... 🤬 I would say: Remove plug out of brake drum adjust hole.. 😮 ( Because i would name the thing that's meant, first.. You guys.. tell me what is the better english? )

There should be a hole (on the flat front of drum) that is (possibly) closed with a sort of lead.. through that you can alter the brake.. see service manual.. but i would hit the front from the drum with a hammer.. just light hits all over them.. maybe some heat helps too?

Yeah.. what i thought.. can it be that your vacuum in the distributor is defect..

Thanks for the picture! Is this just a pic found on the internet or from a member on this site? Would like to see what kind of turbo he has installed there. I wonder also what those (fuel?) lines are on the air intake tube? Injection? (seen left of the gauge)

Till last week i didn't want to chase rust on my 240z.. hahaha... now i took it to a friend for a check ( as my 280zx is on my own lift..) and it had a few holes after 22 winters of use.. not bad.. in the dog legs as you guys call it.. Maybe repair it next year.. not a lot of motivation on this side... 😫 Also behind the lower part of the front fender there is a lot of rot.. pfff.. repaired those 25 years ago.. and are very rusty.. Your work looks good, just be sure not to spray any sinkpaint over rust because it will rust anyway. only clean steel will accept the paint good. Take your time and brace, brace brace... when taking out big pieces.

Eh.. yeah.. normally a no brainer but if your not a electrician even remotely... let someone else take a look.. If the red and green are the up and down wire of the antenna.. put those on the outer 2 connections of the 3 from the switch. The middle one gets a pos or minus depending on what your antenna needs to go up or down. See service manual or product papers from the new antenna.. (These are plus i think because the antenna used in these cars is chassis is negative.) AND..what?? 🙂 (white?) 🙂 Original the blue wire is the antenna up/down.. i think? pos. 12 v is up on that wire and 0v is down.. You need a 12v+ to the (P) contact in the middle of the switch to make it work.. (get it from the fusebox or a existing wire that was used for the old antenna.)

And.. it has to have a auto return to the (middle) off position! So the plus 12 v is on the P-contact (most times the middle one on back) and the UP and LOWER signal cables are on the other 2 contacts.