dutchzcarguy

Okay.. not rubber.. but just remember when the engine starts to act up after a few hundred miles that it could be that your neoprene is gone..

Could come from just conduction.. or is it still hot after say an hour after closing the valve? I think those valves never close very optimal anyway..

(sarcasm..) I would never have guessed! 🙊 They differ a lot! But the old are history, try the new ones, just put in 2 exact the same needles.. Does anyone know if you can use the needles from a HMB46W (boatanchors ? ) flathead carbs in a roundhead HJG46W ? Probably not.. ( Those carbs are so different it would surprise me if the needles are interchangable..) Yeah it would, but if you do this with those rubber rings... don't expect it to last longer than a few hundred miles at the max.. you need to put in new brass bearings.. at least on the side were the axel comes out.. the other end you COULD place a cap on to let no air in.. i wonder why no one came on that solution.. i find it simple..just put a cap on the end and it's leak free.. 👍

AND... as it's thread is tapered, you don't need to screw it all the way in.. as a matter a fact about half way is enough and some tape (PTFE) is a good insurance that you don't brake it. It's a mistery to me what they used. But they say it's zinc.. colored blue or yellow.. I can give you theire website. but i have to say: they only did my parts because i bring and get them myself and they do them between the other (Very big) orders.. Last time he said they normally don't do these small (private) collections of parts. GTO Plating BV – Passie voor Perfectie (It says: we have passion for perfection.)

Also.. Hexavalent chromium - Wikipedia

Just looked it up.. but hexavalent chromium.. isn't much better.. i remember there were a lot of sick service engineers in the Dutch railways (NS) because of it.. we call it chromium6 and it's very bad stuff.. (when taking of paint and layers.. you need an awful lot of protection..) Read this also: What is Hexavalent Chromium (or Chromium-6)? | Britannica

Good news/info! 👍 Happy to hear.. i guess i heard people telling about it.. calling it a cadmium finish but in reality it's zinc.. So these new plated parts are in Hexavalent chromium.. Am (again) learning something today! 🙂 EDIT EDIT EDIT !!!! EDIT.. as you said not all is chromium6.. i looked at the website of the firm that did my parts and they say it's zinc passified in blue or yellow. so NO chromium6 on my cars! 😅 Tip.. put a small steel strip in the springs.. now you get a nice perfect passified part..

I understand that the thread was already 1/8"-27 NPT as the tap needed no force to go through the thread? You DID alter the thread on the sensor, i think that's the way to go! If this connection is gonna leak (As there are now 2 sorts of threads on it.. sort of..) you use some tape as sayd.. (also.. I just remember.. i think the thread on there was tapered? .. so i think as you went further on to the thread it was more difficult to cut the thread?) anyway use some PTFE. (always put it on stretching the tape and go with the thread, not against it. 2-3 turns is enough.)

I hope you did this in a "well ventilated room" as the "gold" is a metal called... Cadmium.. it it very poisonous/toxic! (the proces to get it on there is called passifying) There a lots of passified parts on our cars.. When installing a oilpressure sender it's no problem to use some P.T.F.E tape also called teflon tape on the thread, to keep it from leaking. Personally i never have seen a o.p.s. that was leaking in the way you described.

I often use some soft copper plates that protect any part that i put in my vice, i got it from a plumber, also the slater has some left overs that you could use. 🙂

I wondered if the "damper" isn't installed backwards? i'm not sure but isn't the lower tube the inlet? Haven't investigate this as i'm a lazybone...

I agree.. Ownallday, take a look at the angle and look of the "scratches" in my original (120Kkm) engine.. it's totally different. On the other hand i want to hear from you what the end result would be after just a hone and new rings..

Sorry but i smiled behind my hand.. when you sayd that the diameter was still 86mm.. It would be shocking if it wasn't! Normally you shoud measure it in 1/100 mm i've seen (Swiss made) parts that were made on 1/1000 of a mm! (NOT of inches!) My bet is that the 300$ are gonna be as i call "learning money" and there is nothing wrong with that, but be prepared to pull the engine again.. Those proffesional engine builders.. most know what they are talking about and your engine has a LOT of miles on it. so it really needs a rebore. As for the crank.. it can be as shiney as a new chrome part, but that tells me nothing. Use a micrometer to test it. And look in a service man. what it should be.. (And you have a good chance you find out that the crank also needs a new surface and new bearings.) Yes i know i'm a bit harsh (i learn't that us Dutchies are a bit directer than you americans.. 😉 ) but it's now that you could save yourself 300+ dollars and a lot of unneccessary work 😮 (Think of all those bolts that have to be unscrewed and screwed on again.) I never said it's a cheap hobby...

Ownallday wow! What a lot of responses! In just one day! I agree with Patcon, those vertical lines don't look good.. You need a rebore (and a extra income.. maybe you can sell that coin collection) Also the worn bearings concern me.. If i tell you i haven't been on a vacation for the last 25 years.. (doesn't interest me i guess) Now you know where i get the money to restore some cars.. I always say: I'm on vacation when i'm behind the wheel of my own beautiful z(x) cars! 🤠 Maybe you could get yourself a good engine L24/L26/L28 with carbs (test it yourself, ask to do a compressiontest, if they wouldn't let you do it the engine is probably no good!) There are a lot of ways that lead to your destination.. (I have seen engines cheap and you could take a look inside with a camera, those things are cheap (on your phone ones) endoscope.)

You should be able to buy them in the color you want.. tape is going to let go in 10 years or so... You could also put a small ring of heatshrink on the end part of the tape.. so it stays better on! 😉

Hi, That's not good, they should look like these.. this L28 is now 44 years old and these pic are 3 years old.. It has run 119000 km (i'm sure about the km's) and in excellent condition if you ask me.. When your cylinders are glazed and polished looking just a quick hone is not gonna help.. The walls are gone.. You could test the diameter of the cylinders first and look if they are perfect round, inportant spot to test is the lower diam. of the cyl. There where the skirt of the piston sits. if there is any oval you need a rebore.. and new pistons. and yeah it is/can be a expensive hobby. 😬 Have you also done a compression test, a leak test etc.. it can help a lot to know in what condition your engine is.. Maybe some pictures of your cyl.walls? and what you think the engine has run (Mls) ?

Also ... Look into the servicemanual(s) on this site!

As your resistance is about 29 ohms.. that's too high.. It should be lower then 10 ohms.. my 280zx of 44 years old has around 5-6 ohms.. (and it has 1 line broken and i know the spot.. repair with silverglue.. is jobnr10232..😒) I'm sure you have multiple interruptions in your lines (look with a magnifying glass and you will see the spots were it's broken!) Use some silver glue (Little is enough) and put it on with a very small pointy brush.. careful! Silverglue is very expensive as it contains a lot of silver and it conducts electricity very well! You can buy it in a few grams container.. anyway.. we can here in the Netherlands. 😏

Wow.. is this partnumber still available Richard? I had an original years ago didn't need it and sold it (for a lot more) .. My part ended with E4100 i believe. so it has been superseded. (72610-E4600)

Yeah, These days one off parts are made on the spot! No transport needed, look at the military in ukraine! They make the part they need on the spot! By solidworks you mean a brand in 3D printer design stuff? I don't know what it is.. yeah i bet google knows.. ( In the '80's i build a (2D) plotter myself size A3! a commodore C64 computer controlled it. I also did learn it all the letters and numbers etc. in basic/bin.code.. was fun! So i could build myself a 3D printer when i could buy the "head" separately.. no no.. don't say it i got projects enough at this time (still busy with carport and) bought myself some heatpumps.. to install them it costs 1800 euro.. crazy i do it myself!!! )

After all these years.. they are all cracked.. get yourself a 3d printer (or someone who has one) and make them yourself (and sell a few to get even..) Mart.

WOW... So.. as a (direct!) dutch guy i say.. so he's a PODS now? 🙊 sorry had to make that joke.. Oh well.. now he can't screw up any car.. it's all very sad.

POS? Positive? AH!!! Piece of Sh*t! 😂 Hahaha... I had a painter of that kind gave him money for the paint so he could buy the paint, never seen some.. then his POS girlfriend broke my 400 euro windscreen.. (stored at theire home) they said i never brought it to them.. they had never seen it! (It's in my log. i recorded the exact day i brought the screen!) then i cleaned the dash that he took out of the car very well.. and it came back like a turd, completly white from new plastering they were doing in theire home.. 👿 looked for a pic but can't find it.. anyway it was covered in white powder and spiderwebs.. some people..pfff...

Hi, did you look inside with a camera? They can be bad.. Framerails, i made them myself, if you look close they are not that difficult to make yourself.. Especially when you only need the "under the floor" part(s).

(Btw.. i was talking about the new crate engine) NO, we didn't need the EGR in 1981 also no cath.. Those came with the 300zx somewhere in 1988! If this engine has no linings in the exhaust manifold it could be a Dutch market engine. (Maybe the rest of euro also..) but the partnumber says california.. (If you compare the number on the valvecover and in the link i gave above.)