heyitsrama

Referencing the manual indicates that there is no relay lined for it, it pulls power off the b/w line which is switched power, then runs power all the way to the pump in the rear. Placing a relay in that system would be ideal. @motorman7 I have a spare airbox for that style SU if you need one. ?

“My mind is telling me yes, but my wallet, my wallet is telling me nooooooooooo” Hahaha yeah I was looking through those online, I like the idea of adjustable flash rate.

Howdy, Was getting another revision of my wiring harness down, pulled the trigger on some LEDs for the chassis, just wanted to share results. I ordered from SuperBrightLeds.com. 4x 1057 LED (blinkers for turn signals + rear blinkers) : 1156-CW18-T: Cool White 4x 1056 LED (Tail light + Reverse) : 1157-W26-CBT: White 8x 67 LED (Body + Taillight [two spare, I like the older color for the license plates]) : 67-CW12-G: Cool White I need to get the flasher working, debating to get either https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/KAL50FB6R00/KAL50FB6R00-ND/1646199 or https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY to add load to the line. I think that it might be possible to just add the resistors under the dashboard or mounted on the driver kick panel. Should be straight forward to install. Leaning toward the amazon one, the price point seems to be good. Here they are for comparison on the car, brake off then brakes on. I do prefer the hazy yellow for the license plates ha... I just want people to be able to see me, I was thinking about something that would send a visual pulse by blinking the LEDS rapidly when the brake is depressed. Just wanna make sure kids in SUVs see me ha.

Restored a mk1 Sprite for some dude once, gave the car to him, the same week he started messing with a push button starter, he ended up mixing things up so much that the battery reversed its polarity. Don’t even want to open up that car anymore [emoji25], shame it was a great car to drive tops off. Here’s an SU manual: http://libgen.io/book/index.php?md5=650D1EFFD49B448501385D3E7FFB0444 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Going down 4 screws in order to get a start is an indication that the float level is out of adjustment. Although you have set the parallel adjustment, the middle lever should be adjusted too. From the top portion above the float (not the lip, rather the plane that makes the edge) set the distance to close at 14mm, I do this by blowing air into the float needles, and adjusting the float till I hit the point, measure, and adjust. Once you have this established you should be able to get the tune back to being around that 2.5 screws down. We’re are you located, maybe there is someone around that can give a hand. [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There are 3 mounting points, with 4 pieces. Here they are painted after a test fit Them placed into the car, I’m running a 260Z the front mount might be a little different from pictures I’ve seen. I have to test and see if the dash fits, it should, just have to double check [emoji85]

Whaddya mean it’s the worst one you’ve seen?! I spent so much time on this [emoji12] Have to strip paint off the front end, and prep for some paint, I guess I should try to find a 260Z grill, this one looks all jacked up, I think it’s a late 240Z model, but looks super tweaked.

Fixed my dash, a lot of stuff to get this car back up and running. Have to paint it next

Howdy, Anyone going to be in Monterey in Aug 22-26 for Monterey Car week // Historics at Laguna Seca? I’ll be working at Laguna on the 22, and probably will be at the track over the weekend, if anyone wanted to meet up and go for a cruise. It’s also supposed to be all about Nissan this year? :)

So what’s the status? it seems that you needed to align the jet, and then set the float level... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I’m in the processing of building out a mirror website for datsunzgarage, a lot of information on that site. I have the engine page up, https://specterbyte.com/datsunzgarage/engine.html Should be a couple days, I think I found a way to get the rest of the site up.

the mounting might be a little different from when Derek installed his, I've noticed some of the older guides have a different designed gen2 mini. I'm currently in the works of installing a newly bought gen2 mini in my 260z, I made a bracket yesterday, I still need to test the fit of it, and finish an upper bracket. I welded some 1" bars that are ~1/4" thick, I had to modify the top bracket to fit correctly, but can't run grinders this late, have to be courteous to the neighbors ha.

Okay you see all those terminal ends that are connecting with spade connectors. You should replace all the exposed ones with shielded ones. When these connectors have oxidization on them they are gonna have increased resistance and increased heat through the wire. You’re goal on anything electrical you touch is to clean it, and prevent it from getting oxidized. There is a common modification that people do to ensure that the starter is getting enough power to the stator which is to wire a relay into the system, so that there is direct power present. I’ve used ZX coils on old mini coopers for testing purposes, it was running fine, I believe Lucas coils are designed to run with no ballast resistor, it might say on the coil itself. There is no need for reverse polarity on the coil, typically for British reverse polarity cars they can be changed to standard ground on chassis. There’s a 9pin connection mod that you can do that would help reduce the load to the combo switch, I would need to find more information about this. If you need protected space connectors / round connectors, vintageconnections.com has some high quality stuff. That and super 33 tape + heat shrink should be helpful too. :) I think you might want to try that relay mod, research a bit, http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html If you do the relay mod, try to secure it somewhere. Chances are if your ignition system is changed to a points style, there’s a transistorized ignition board inside the passenger kick spaces which has been bypassed, I used this space for relays in my 260z, I made a bracket to add more relays, ended up with headlights, fuel pump, eletrical fans, all having relays down there. 260z are interesting cars, unfortunately they were also guinea pigs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I believe you will need to get a front mounted airflow measurement tool, measuring from where you are is after the balance tube. But I could be wrong, I would want someone else to double triple confirm. Was there a filter in the engine compartment? There are two additional filters at the float chamber of the SU carb, for me it was throwing off my float measurements, and causing my stalling issues, after cleaning them out, I was able to get a good tune. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Replace that fuel filter, and at the barb of where the hose from The fuel rail goes into the float bowl, there’s a filter located inside the barb, I would take those out and make sure they are clean as well if the issue persists after that filter change. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Uhhhhh so, those evap lines look like they are being pinched, if that’s the case the vapor won’t be able to escape. An electrical fan is starting to make more sense, at least you can throw a temperature timer on it... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here’s a heat shield I saw the other day, I liked the layer approach. I just noticed the use of that reflective layer under, I wonder how much that helps reflect radiant heat.

Im going to be doing an install as soon as the damn eBay person ships the vintage air unit. Your best bet for the mounts is just to make them out of a thin bar of steel. At least that's what it seems that everyone else is doing.

Does the car have a fuel return line? I thought allowing the gas to flow removes the opportunity for it to get heat soaked. It seems that people also run those insulated asbestos lines over the fuel rail. That should also help prevent it from soaking heat.

My estimation is that a vintage air unit, will run around $1-1.1k in parts, I just ordered a gen 2 mini Evap/blower unit for $400 off eBay, gonna put it all together myself. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232817705251 Is this it?

You can also tell by valance style, early 260s have a valance that’s similar to a 240, with identical turn signals, but the center portion has a slightly different mounting point. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yeah it looks super toast, the car sat for 15 years with no steering cover, I sent it out to Dave and he shipped me back a toggle switch to get me through the part search, but I really need to locate a replacement, it’s much safer for mountain roads to have hands up at the wheels. I’ve been thinking about trying to make some 3d printed replacements for this switch, I assume people have issues with theses.

Sorry for the delay! I did not get a notification for a reply, it would be this switch.

I ended up with a champion 2 row, I built a shroud for it, and have two electrical fans, with both of them on the temperature sits right around 185*. I use distilled water and some GE green coolant. When I go through the electrical system again, I’m going to wire in my temp-ground switch to only have 1 fan on constant, 2nd if it gets over 190* Oh I used some grommets to separate the body from the rad, I was reading that these alloy rads don’t like to flex. No issues so far. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile