Mark Maras

Let's get together for coffee, beer, food. What does your schedule look like?

When I stripped mine I found many places where the adhesion to the metal had failed and there was light rust hiding under the mat. I found that when the mat is cold most of it will chip off with a HF wood chisel.

I used lacquer thinner to clean my spray bar. Had to soak it for 24 hrs. to dissolve everything on the inside. A torch tip cleaner is an excellent tool to clean the holes.

I'm told that a door hinge and bushing kit from Dorman, Part# 38397 is a good replacement. Cheap too. $8.00 on Amazon. Probably not a whole lot more at your local parts store. P.S. the bushings will work in your shifter too.

I've been in contact with Oliver. He hasn't found the box that he thinks has the bumper piece that Jai is looking for but says he will keep looking.

Thanks for the link. I've emailed her the info. Jai's 280 is a beautiful red 76.

Nice find and welcome Ben. Interesting dent in the top shoulder of the fender. Garage accident? Did you get original bumpers with the car? The reason I ask is, we have a member that has an early 76 that needs an end from a front bumper and the rubber filler strip in the center. If you were going to go the early bumper route, perhaps you would part with your old one. Sorry if I appear to be a vulture circling over forty three year old meat. Our member in Georgia is trying to complete her bumper to get ready for car shows this spring and summer. No luck finding the parts so far.

You forgot the happy face emoji , so I added one. Good news. Sounds like we're getting close. The trace of color on the two plugs looks good. I'm told that the darker tan color that we all used to try to achieve is not applicable to modern gas formulas. Were all the plugs about the same color, especially #4? Please explain "Even better when the pump measured 4.2 psi." You shouldn't notice any difference in the performance whether the fuel pressure is at 3 psi - 4.2 psi. If you have noticed a difference, I would suspect a float needle valve is leaking.

What do the other plugs look like and how did the car run?

DITTO

Oliver's email address is zman@zspecialties.com

@240260280 Glad you brought that up. I couldn't remember how far to lift the pistons. I looked for the proper distance but couldn't find it except a British SU site. What is the proper distance?

@jalexquijano Prior to checking the mixture two things must be done first. The valve adjustment and ignition timing MUST BE CORRECT. Checking mixture. Use the piston lifting pin located under the side of the carbs. to check the fuel air mixture. With the engine running at working temperature, use the piston lifting pin to raise the piston about 1 mm (1/32"). If, while the piston is raised 1 mm, the engine speed increases briefly, then returns to normal, the mixture is correct. If the engine speed raises and stays high, the mixture is too rich. If, when the piston is lifted the engine speed drops or the engine dies, the mixture is too lean. Let us know what you discover.

@Redwing I'll check with Oliver to see if he has the right side and the long rubber center piece.

It would be better to see where the fuel level is before readjusting. Pull the domes and pistons (not the float covers). When you pull the choke on, the nozzles will lower and you'll be able to see the fuel level above the nozzles. Look and see if the rear carb fuel level is close to the front carb level.

Did it stay at the scene of the accident and call 911?

Yes. Then start it up, shut it down and check the fuel levels again in both carbs at 2 1/2 turns to be sure the fuel level isn't too high and pooling on top of the nozzles.

Canards?

@jalexquijano I agree with Cliff. Raise the fuel level in the rear carb to the same level as the front carb. Reset the mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns, check to be sure that fuel isn't pooling on top of the nozzles and drive it. When the engine is warm, if the engine seems like it lacks power under acceleration, SLOWLY pull the choke while accelerating. If the fuel mixture was too lean, adding choke will richen up the mixture and you'll feel the performance boost under acceleration. If adding a little choke improves performance, drop the mixture screws 1/2 turn and try it again. @siteunseen Tick tock, tick tock! Time keeps on slip'n, slip'n, slip'n, into the future. Fly like an eagle.

I'd reuse it.

@jalexquijano Where are your mixture screws now and how is it running?

I've been considering this possibility and It could be that minor variations in the fuel height don't make much difference. It could be that this float level discussion is "much ado about nothing." Then I thought about a lower fuel level and how it would affect the choke. Pulling the choke on will have less effect if the fuel level is low. Dropping the nozzles and allowing fuel to puddle on top of the nozzles is the choke action. It would probably only affect cold starting if the fuel level was low and the temps were frigid. Like trying to start your Z in the garage in the dead of winter.

I think we're all hoping for some clarity on this. Thanks in advance.

Will the rpms drop if you pull up on the pedal? I'd start raising the mixture screws in 1/2 turn increments to see if the dark plugs will clear up.

I agree. that's why the 1/16" (1.58 mm, 1 1/2 turns) below the nozzle top. It allows adjustment without fuel puddling on top of the nozzle.