Mark Maras

Thanks for the pics. Those plugs look very good. Was the engine fully warmed up when you started on the test run at what rpm did it start to misfire?

@jalexquijano Don't clean the plugs. Take a pic and post it. You could clean the plugs (after the pic) but if the mis-fire continues, you still won't know if it's caused by the plugs. Bite the bullet and buy new plugs.

@jalexquijano I've experienced lack of fuel in my Z. It had a partially blocked fuel filter at the time. There wasn't any cutting out, missing, spitting etc. It just wouldn't go any faster than 45 mph no matter what gear it was in. It would free rev to 6000 rpms but under power, in any gear, just 45 mph. The only time I've experienced high rpm misfire in mine, it turned out to be ignition related. I changed spark plugs and the misfire went away. Try installing a new set of plugs and see if it improves. I'd still like to see a pic of all six plugs.

I've never had one come loose. Hopefully, a PO didn't tighten it properly. I'd tighten it properly and stow the tools needed to do a roadside repair in the car for a few months.

Not enough info. Spitting as a symptom doesn't tell me squat. Start over with, WAS it ever running good and work your way into WHEN it started to run crappy and WHAT you worked on. This could be something as simple as tightening choke cable clamp, so think about it. Also include driving conditions before and after and your own thoughts on it. Did you ever take a pic of the six plugs?

I hope you get it. That's a steal if it's as good as he says it is.

As far as the clunk goes, check your drive line u-joints. The clunk when starting out in reverse makes me suspicious. At what speed do you notice the sway? can you feel it in the steering wheel?

We could solve them all but we'd be preaching to the choir. However, it would be a kick in the a$$ to be able to sit around over a beer (over 105 craft breweries in Portland metro area) and agree with each other. We'll keep you in the loop when we settle on a time and date. How far N of The Couv are you?

Let's get together for coffee, beer, food. What does your schedule look like?

When I stripped mine I found many places where the adhesion to the metal had failed and there was light rust hiding under the mat. I found that when the mat is cold most of it will chip off with a HF wood chisel.

I used lacquer thinner to clean my spray bar. Had to soak it for 24 hrs. to dissolve everything on the inside. A torch tip cleaner is an excellent tool to clean the holes.

I'm told that a door hinge and bushing kit from Dorman, Part# 38397 is a good replacement. Cheap too. $8.00 on Amazon. Probably not a whole lot more at your local parts store. P.S. the bushings will work in your shifter too.

I've been in contact with Oliver. He hasn't found the box that he thinks has the bumper piece that Jai is looking for but says he will keep looking.

Thanks for the link. I've emailed her the info. Jai's 280 is a beautiful red 76.

Nice find and welcome Ben. Interesting dent in the top shoulder of the fender. Garage accident? Did you get original bumpers with the car? The reason I ask is, we have a member that has an early 76 that needs an end from a front bumper and the rubber filler strip in the center. If you were going to go the early bumper route, perhaps you would part with your old one. Sorry if I appear to be a vulture circling over forty three year old meat. Our member in Georgia is trying to complete her bumper to get ready for car shows this spring and summer. No luck finding the parts so far.

You forgot the happy face emoji , so I added one. Good news. Sounds like we're getting close. The trace of color on the two plugs looks good. I'm told that the darker tan color that we all used to try to achieve is not applicable to modern gas formulas. Were all the plugs about the same color, especially #4? Please explain "Even better when the pump measured 4.2 psi." You shouldn't notice any difference in the performance whether the fuel pressure is at 3 psi - 4.2 psi. If you have noticed a difference, I would suspect a float needle valve is leaking.

What do the other plugs look like and how did the car run?

DITTO

Oliver's email address is zman@zspecialties.com

@240260280 Glad you brought that up. I couldn't remember how far to lift the pistons. I looked for the proper distance but couldn't find it except a British SU site. What is the proper distance?

@jalexquijano Prior to checking the mixture two things must be done first. The valve adjustment and ignition timing MUST BE CORRECT. Checking mixture. Use the piston lifting pin located under the side of the carbs. to check the fuel air mixture. With the engine running at working temperature, use the piston lifting pin to raise the piston about 1 mm (1/32"). If, while the piston is raised 1 mm, the engine speed increases briefly, then returns to normal, the mixture is correct. If the engine speed raises and stays high, the mixture is too rich. If, when the piston is lifted the engine speed drops or the engine dies, the mixture is too lean. Let us know what you discover.

@Redwing I'll check with Oliver to see if he has the right side and the long rubber center piece.

It would be better to see where the fuel level is before readjusting. Pull the domes and pistons (not the float covers). When you pull the choke on, the nozzles will lower and you'll be able to see the fuel level above the nozzles. Look and see if the rear carb fuel level is close to the front carb level.

Did it stay at the scene of the accident and call 911?

Yes. Then start it up, shut it down and check the fuel levels again in both carbs at 2 1/2 turns to be sure the fuel level isn't too high and pooling on top of the nozzles.