Mark Maras

Possible origin. In the logging business here in the NW a Caterpillar(bulldozer) driver was a cat skinner. The term was used from the 1930s-1960s at least. It probably came about as soon as loggers started using Cats.

Good eye Fred. Perhaps a right-hand drive Z in reverse image? An easy way to alter a pic. if you need a left hand drive Z.

Beautiful Z. The way prices are climbing, who knows?

Current price at Pick n Pull in Portland is $2.49 per foot.

Be brave. Take it out with a ratchet. If it doesn't spin free once it is loose, spray some lube at the base of the plug & retighten & loosen a few times to lube the threads. Repeat the procedure to remove the plug. I don't think you'll have much trouble because you used antiseize. Chasing the threads would be a good idea. If you fill the flutes of the tap with grease, it will trap any particles that could fall into the chamber. Also, I always pull the plugs when the engine is cold. There is less chance for damage due to the different exp. & cont. rates of alum. & steel.

Rats! Looks like thrashing on green-eyed Lillith is to become your Super Bowl tradition. Sorry to see the damage. Don't know if it will help, I have a spare L26 & an E88 that could give you a runner until the new build is complete. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help out. Mark

No. In fact I hadn't heard of it before now. Thanks for the tip. Mark

Hi John Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the Wurth brand but their products sure look interesting. Mark

Thanks again. I will put that idea to bed & persue zinc coating. Oh wait, that is the same idea, just a different approach. Mark

Thanks for the update. The salt water, as I understand it, is the electrolyte in this scenario. Would anodes protect the chassis, temporarily, as long as everything was wet from salted roads, or perhaps a life at the beach? I'm sure ratio of salt to water is a consideration but if it were concentrated enough to act as an electrolyte how, far apart would the anodes have to be. Anyone? Mark

OMG! Not again. Thumbs up on finding all the parts, Curious if the inside of the valve cover shows any scars. Can,t imagine the collets coming loose unless something compressed the spring. Considering the fact that you "know" this car in the Biblical manner by now & you mentioned that it is a she, could her name be Lillith? Keep treating her with love, she will give up her tantrums & be your friend. Mark

The used Subie that I recently purchased had spots all over the glass. I first tried glass cleaner, then lacquer thinner,my next attempt was going to be abrasive, then I remembered the clay bar, it worked better than I imagined. My dad used to use Colgate tooth powder to remove scratches. Something he learned in WWII. It worked exceptionally well. Mark

Goosebumps from that one.

I don't know the answer but I'm curious how much movement you have, any movement in the u-joints or a very high speed vibration at 85 mph or above? Mark

327 with fuel injection heads, with an automatic?. OMG where would you start. IMO this one will never see the road again.

Gotta love creativity. He must be a relative of Red Green or a member of the Possum Lodge.

Has anyone tried Versimold for tail-light gaskets or bumper covers? It looks like it would be a great alternative for the rubber parts that can "nickel & dime" your budget. Mark

Having installed a 73 radio into my 71 years ago, The face plate will have to be changed to a 73 also. Sorry, I don't know if it was an early or late 73. As I recall it was a straight forward swap. No wiring issues. But as I sit here & remember, I should have had issues with the antenna switch, I think, by the time I swapped radios, the original antenna had been vandalized twice & I replaced it with one that had a spring at the base, eliminating the switch by the radio. Mark

My dad used a spray bottle with water in it to check plug wires. Start the engine, turn out the lights,& mist the wires. If they are bad, kick back & enjoy the light show. Much better than getting shocked & banging your head on the hood, Mark

The fuel pressure to the SUs should be 3-3 1/2 psi. No more than 4, Mark

You'll need to tell us how light you want to go. Myself I've always wanted to have a stripped Z for the street but loving to drive a Z year round, a heater is a must & the list goes on. I'm torn between fun & creature comforts. You'll have to consider what you want to keep depending on your wants & needs. Mark

Nice score with all the goodies. If this Z is as "rust free" as it looks from the pics, it has spent it's life in a well protected home & you've found a rare one. Everything you've heard about the liquid sunshine in the Northwest is true. I doubt some areas in a Z ever totally dry out even in late summer, Congratulations, keep it dry & enjoy. Mark

I'd go with an L24. Bolt it up & drive it. No screwing around modifying this & that to get it to run. Being in college, you'll need a reliable car that won't take up your time & money. Mark

I agree, a good used engine is not that hard to find, Pull the valve cover, spark plugs and give it a compression test. You might even find a club member that has a spare. Mark

I've used water activated fiberglass mat, avail. in the plumbing section of Home Depot, to temporarily repair an old leaking hot water pipe in my house. It is made for leaking pipes & marine applications. It held up to the heat & pressure just fine. Might be one of those repair items to tuck into a tool bag too. Mark