Mark Maras

I don't think a blocked return line would cause fuel over-flow. If the fuel pressure is around 3 1/2 psi the needle & seat will shut it off. Also, if a blocked line was the problem, both carbs would be puking. The problem is in the rear carb float chamber. Check or re-check the following; float(does it?), float pivot assy.(NO binding), float tang adjustment(float bowl fuel level), needle & seat(does it seal), fuel pressure(elec. pump, bad regulator?). If I still couldn't figure it out I would pull the float cover off the front carb & carefully compare the two. Mark

Pull the float covers, again. While allowing the float to hang, blow into the fuel inlet fitting & gently lift the float. If the needle valve is sealing properly you won't get any air through it when the float is lifted. to keep bowl gaskets from Pringling, place them between pieces of waxed paper or plastic & keep them flat by placing them in a large book. Like pressing flowers.

Geoff The X bracing is the best & cheapest way to go. Also the possibility to make it multi-purpose as Carl suggested. Go for it. As a fabricator, I'll bet you could knock it out & have it installed in a couple of hours max. It would be great if you could do an accurate before & after either audibly or dimensionally. Maybe with the brace installed, one could belt a passenger to it to take measurements, tower to tower while cornering.

Many years ago during a Conference driver training course at PIR, I found the rear end in my stock 71 Z wanted to hop rather than slide in an oversteer situation. I installed a roll bar, for novice racing, mounted to the shock towers & the front side of the wheel wells (no x bracing). The change was quite remarkable. The rear slid, instead of hop, in a very controllable manner. I've always wondered how much deflection, in all directions, that simple addition eliminated. Many people shy away from roll-bars in a street machine but they are a great way to reinforce a uni-bdy car. Mark

Nice looking. Front & back clipped ala todays' fashion. 665 hp in a rear wheel drive GT is stupid. Why not make it a thousand hp or more. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. I always loved the Z's balance of power & handling. "On track", hanging it out in a corner, one can steer a Z with the throttle. Good luck with 665 hp. Jensen will sell few of these cars. It will be neither affordable nor drivable for street use. Too bad. Mark

George Carlin is looking down & smiling.

Turn off the censure controls. We are all big girls & boys. We've all heard it & said it. You know, skinned knuckles, smashed fingers, bumped heads. The ZX thread was an interesting, if brief, study. Plenty of other club sites regularly use that kind of language. I found the CZCC members reaction to it entirely appropriate. Please let us control ourselves. We have been doing a good job of it so far IMO. Mark

Possible origin. In the logging business here in the NW a Caterpillar(bulldozer) driver was a cat skinner. The term was used from the 1930s-1960s at least. It probably came about as soon as loggers started using Cats.

Good eye Fred. Perhaps a right-hand drive Z in reverse image? An easy way to alter a pic. if you need a left hand drive Z.

Beautiful Z. The way prices are climbing, who knows?

Current price at Pick n Pull in Portland is $2.49 per foot.

Be brave. Take it out with a ratchet. If it doesn't spin free once it is loose, spray some lube at the base of the plug & retighten & loosen a few times to lube the threads. Repeat the procedure to remove the plug. I don't think you'll have much trouble because you used antiseize. Chasing the threads would be a good idea. If you fill the flutes of the tap with grease, it will trap any particles that could fall into the chamber. Also, I always pull the plugs when the engine is cold. There is less chance for damage due to the different exp. & cont. rates of alum. & steel.

Rats! Looks like thrashing on green-eyed Lillith is to become your Super Bowl tradition. Sorry to see the damage. Don't know if it will help, I have a spare L26 & an E88 that could give you a runner until the new build is complete. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help out. Mark

No. In fact I hadn't heard of it before now. Thanks for the tip. Mark

Hi John Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the Wurth brand but their products sure look interesting. Mark

Thanks again. I will put that idea to bed & persue zinc coating. Oh wait, that is the same idea, just a different approach. Mark

Thanks for the update. The salt water, as I understand it, is the electrolyte in this scenario. Would anodes protect the chassis, temporarily, as long as everything was wet from salted roads, or perhaps a life at the beach? I'm sure ratio of salt to water is a consideration but if it were concentrated enough to act as an electrolyte how, far apart would the anodes have to be. Anyone? Mark

OMG! Not again. Thumbs up on finding all the parts, Curious if the inside of the valve cover shows any scars. Can,t imagine the collets coming loose unless something compressed the spring. Considering the fact that you "know" this car in the Biblical manner by now & you mentioned that it is a she, could her name be Lillith? Keep treating her with love, she will give up her tantrums & be your friend. Mark

The used Subie that I recently purchased had spots all over the glass. I first tried glass cleaner, then lacquer thinner,my next attempt was going to be abrasive, then I remembered the clay bar, it worked better than I imagined. My dad used to use Colgate tooth powder to remove scratches. Something he learned in WWII. It worked exceptionally well. Mark

Goosebumps from that one.

I don't know the answer but I'm curious how much movement you have, any movement in the u-joints or a very high speed vibration at 85 mph or above? Mark

327 with fuel injection heads, with an automatic?. OMG where would you start. IMO this one will never see the road again.

Gotta love creativity. He must be a relative of Red Green or a member of the Possum Lodge.

Has anyone tried Versimold for tail-light gaskets or bumper covers? It looks like it would be a great alternative for the rubber parts that can "nickel & dime" your budget. Mark

Having installed a 73 radio into my 71 years ago, The face plate will have to be changed to a 73 also. Sorry, I don't know if it was an early or late 73. As I recall it was a straight forward swap. No wiring issues. But as I sit here & remember, I should have had issues with the antenna switch, I think, by the time I swapped radios, the original antenna had been vandalized twice & I replaced it with one that had a spring at the base, eliminating the switch by the radio. Mark