Mark Maras

IMO 903 was the darker of the two blues. 115 was more a silvery (metallic) blue. Patcon is right about samples. It's the only way to be sure before you spend big bucks on paint.

Thanks for sharing. One could pull the doors without re-aligning the hinges. Quick and easy.

Wow. Those are perfect. They should offer those with the leather kit.

Probably could have had a better outcome with better brakes but I'll bet the "big moment" started with high "speed", a whole lot of white knuckle understeer and one of those damned Saturday night power poles that jump into your way telling you to slow down. Except for that last one. The one that looks like it has a heavily loaded diaper hanging low on it's rear. Could it have that much rust that it's sagging under it's own weight? That's sad.

New to me to. Nice to add another source. Or is another voice?

^^^, more info on those would be appreciated.

Joedatsun Gorgeous, but it's not nice to post a single Z porn pic and not give us the centerfold too. We do want to see more. Please.

Hello and welcome to the club. A few months ago I bought a late 71 (series 2, same as the 72s) from a wrecking yard that was going to crush it. The body is actually a bit better than the 260 that I'm working on. Engine, trans, half shafts, and a few assorted goodies were already missing. Since then I have stripped the body of everything but the rear end and the suspension which are coming out soon. My intention is to cut the spot welds and take it apart and sell everything I don't need. (not much) A few members have gotten some of the parts already but there is a quite a pile left as you can imagine. I don't know how many pieces you'll be needing but I'll bet I have quite a few that you'll want. I have a COMPLETE dashboard (several cracks), heater box and ducts, COMPLETE wire harness end to end seats and more. We can use the club PM, email or phone, whatever you prefer. Talk to you soon Mark Maras

Engine porn. Beautiful!

All original is nice but I like an upgraded, (which could include stripped down), personalized Z as long as the changes are done well.

I'm in Portland just across the river. What did you find?

That's soooo tempting. Almost moved to Canada in the late 60s. (not to avoid the draft btw) I just love Canada and Canadians eh. The way things are going here in the land of "In Greed We Trust", I might want to leave soon and avoid the post election rush. Maybe I could even drive Westwood again. Fantastic track.

My ,still improving method, for re-bending a nice radius in the floor pans. I used a 1 7/8" hinge collar from a Bulldog Hinge. (Available at you local chain link fence co. They usually have old ones in their supplies) It is little more than a 1/8" x 2 1/2" piece of sheet metal bent into a U shape (1" ID radius) with long legs. They're very bend resistant. I cut about every 3", (as described by Patcon) flattened any mislocated bends 3" at a time, clamped the hinge collar to the inside of the floor pan in the proper location and rolled and beat the panel to conform to the collar using the clamp handle for leverage. It actually worked quite well but next time I'm going to heat the radius area first. The goal is to roll a radius into the floor pan 3" at a time without all the beating. Heat would make it a lot faster and safer than a BMFH.

Yet another consideration is a mig liner. They're available in many diameters. Last time I bought one it was about $1.00 per foot.

"Swirl Pot" is probably a brand name here in Portland.

Cliff, I think a drill motor would be an excellent method to determine straightness of the needle but when finished with this sanding procedure aren't you left with one carb running richer than the other or are you compensating with the nozzle adjustment? It seems to me that new needles would be the better answer.

Have you tried beermanpete's advice about swapping pots (and pistons) between carbs? You'll be able to tell which part is bent, Piston or pot. IMO I'd start looking for replacement part(s) ASAP. I doubt if it's worth the time and money to try to straighten it. Whatever "it" is.

If the needle isn't 90 degrees, I think it would rub the inside of the jet (nozzle).

Oh yeah, I've dropped them too. Now I place a rag with a small hole on the cowl and set the piston on it with the needle protruding thru the rag and into one of the cowl slots. The piston sits securely on the rag and the needle is protected from my clumsiness. To be sure the needle isn't the problem, blacken the needle with a Sharpie pen and slide the piston up and down. If there is contact, the black ink will be scraped off revealing the brass contact point. This will also work for locating interference between the piston and chamber. The choke is activated when the handle is pulled into the up position. At the carbs., the choke cables pull the fuel nozzles down. This temporarily boosts the amount of fuel in the mixture. Virtually the same action as dropping the nozzles down with the adjustment screws.

Easier yes. The tunnel is thinner material than Charley's floors but are you going to lose needed clearance for the exhaust? Just a thought.

I like the onion analogy. Layer upon layer of corrosion. Patience is the key to removing stuck fasteners. Wire brushing exposed threads, plenty of soak time, a rap with a hammer, heat and last but not least, I usually try to tighten the screw or bolt before loosening. Often times there is enough clearance in the threads to break it loose. gwri8 Is it possible when relating the extent of your "intimate" Z knowledge, you referred your car as HER? It might explain the look you received.

Needing the choke when the engine is warm is a sure sign of a lean mixture. Inadequate fuel supply, wrong float setting, are a couple of the more obvious reasons. They may need the mixture adjustments opened up 1/4-1/2 turn more, however, the overflowing carb and the sticking piston have to corrected first. Does the piston stick at the bottom of it's stroke? If so, it is likely nozzle misalignment. When aligning the nozzles, adjust them to the top. That way when you drop the nozzle screws down 2 1/2 turns later, you'll have a little extra clearance to ensure the needles don't stick in the nozzles. If the piston is sticking higher up, carefully inspect the damper and chamber for scratches and or dents. Not only is the piston supposed to drop but it should drop at the same rate as the other carb. The overflowing float bowl is likely caused by a defective float, float pivot or too much pressure. (You already replaced the needle and seat) One way or another the needle and seat are not closing the fuel off when the float raises.

Given the limited description, I'd say everything is just fine. Timing chains are supposed to run tight and 8" of leverage on the crank nut isn't much leverage to turn it over. Especially a new engine.

Wow. Not even close to any Z. The car on the box does look like a Toronado. The actual model looks more like a new Camaro with an old chrome Pontiac Judge grille.