Dtsnlvrs

Where did you get that awesome avitar....always been a sucker for cute Japanese young ladies.

ditch the air pump, and all of its related smog equip, properly plug all holes opened up by removal of said non-essential equp. Castrol 10W30, and factory nissan filter, and nothing else Use at least 91 octane www.zcarparts.com

Well I not being there to help diagnose it myself, I will refer you to a local shop in the area. www.fairladymotors.com doug has been working on Z's for close to 20yrs....he really has his stuff together. He can help you figure out exactly what is causing the poor fuel mileage....could be a sticking cold start injector, temp sensor, faulty AFM...really tough to say. Give Doug a shot...he should be able to you out.

Lets see, 69 Corvette Stingray convertible...nice car but would not even consider driving it faster than say 90MPH (no power brakes) 87 VW GTI 16V....great college commuter car, handled nice pretty nible, but come on...FWD can never be really sporty 87 VW Scirroco 16V....see GTI 16V above 02 BMW 325 Ci sport...great family car...would of kept it but cant load up the camping gear and drive up a mountain in it 82 Corvette....had an auto tranny need I say more 02 Corvette Z06....closest to the Z for "feel" lots of pover, good driving position, handles great.....TOO EXPENSIVE 02 350-Z...greta power, great handleing, poor driving position. Triumph Spitfire...give it some more power (alot more) and it would be as great as the Z. Great driving position...easy to feel one with the car...handles well enough and can be modified for better. Porsche 911 RS America...great handler, great power, nice driving position, was built in the days before Porsche sold out...but trailing throttle oversteer sucks...very difficult to drive real fast without alot of training and track time.

Hilarious

used would work just fine....just gives me another reason to go down to Virginia.. I dont think those lines have been available for some time, but it is worth asking.

I am looking for the brake tubing that goes from the master cylinder to the brake switch for a 72-72 240. I am wanting to put a later model Master on my 70, and it requires different tubing. Aybody??

The accell rod should come directly off the pedal assy thru the firewall and hook to the funny accell cam thingy. The are attached with plasic socket assy that snap over metal balls. You should be able to just un-snap them then go from there.

Did I also mention that tract length tuning is almost considered a black art...usually the confines of an engine bay removes the possibility of true tract length tuning. It was lost when fuel injection was first used in formula one....they no longer needed the velocity stack lenght and then covered the engines....art lost.

Well you see it is like this. On carbureted engines, the longer the intake tract after the butterfly, the more torque, see it allows for higher velocities thru the venturi by creating more vacuum at throttle opening due to the longer tract between the butterfly and the intake valve. Velocity stacks are sort of misleading, they are not really designed to increase velocity rather to straighten the airflow before it reaches the carb jets....its side benifit is that changing the length will create minor increases or decreases in air volume....very minor, but when tuning carbs to perfection these differences can be used to help final tune. This is called "Tract Length Tuning" On fuel injection engines, this is negated due to having a pressurised fuel spray as opposed to "sucking" out of float bowls. This is aloso why throttle body injectors dont have venturii's. The Air horn (velocity stack) on injection bodies is used to straighten the airflow before the butterfly, and for show.

Kids these days just dont get it do they.

Well good luck in the next season

I have fixed many a fuse block and hazard switch on a z-car (both are nla for 240's) but i believe that if the factory replacement switch is still available it should be used. The original switches lasted over 20 years on these cars, and a new replacement switch will last longer than we will be able to keep most of these cars on the road. 100 bucks or so for a new headlight combo switch is pennies if you consider the cost of a wiring harness meltdown if a repair is faulty. Just my opinion here.

TWM Induction toyed with the idea of a su replacement throttle body, but found that most if not all su users when doing a conversion will opt for a dcoe body....the su conversion was aimed mostly at the british car guys but they all go with a single dcoe....prob cause of the siamesed intake ports. Anyway here is a good link. www.twminduction.com www.sdsefi.com

www.zcarparts.com

And lasty (from me anyway) YOU NEVER LOCK IT BECAUSE REPLACING THE WINDOW GLASS AND/OR REPAIRING THE DORR IS MORE EXPENSIVE AND TIME CONSUMING THAN YOUR STEREO IS WORTH

All the power for the light travels thru the hazard switch and the headlight switch. If you have no dash lights, side marker lights, or parking lights I am inclined to say that it is the headlight switch....if it was the hazard switch you would still have the side marker lights and dash lights. It is the only thing it could be other than some strange short.....besides should you not replace that 30 year old switch anyway. If the problem re-appears you will have a nice new switch to operate the functioning system once you find the short that iI seriously doubt you have......BTW if you order a new headlight/combo switch make sure and order a new turn signal switch as well. It is one of those "while I am at it" parts. Good Luck,

sounds like you got a short in the combo switch

......you move the couch into the garage so your family can spend "quality time" with you. ......you spend the evening in the drivers seat making car sounds and practicing your heel and toe technique. ......you celebrate Mr. K's birthday. ......the only things you have ever bought off e-bay were z-car parts. ......you understand the meaning of "SUN-MOON" ......you think the current Nissan execs are pussies for not putting a RB motor in a 240sx and calling it the "New Z" ......all of your vehicles have inline-6 engines (Z's, Jeep, and BMW) ......when planning a vacation, the first words out of your spouses mouth is, "so is there a race track near there?" ......you know the proper entry, apex, and exit points of ever turn and corner on your daily commute.

Lets analyze this....If you break a U-Joint that is like your Z saying no. And it is definately no ok for another man to service my Z. And if you dont drive it for a month it takes a "TON" of foreplay to get her started. On the other hand if you were married to a swinger chic all of your statements would apply to your marriage as well.

I have tried the porterfields, hawks, metal-master, and EBC Grennstuffs....I would recomend for street use the EBC Greenstuff pads, you can get them or the hawk pads from the tire rack... www.tirerack.com

They must not be tuned right if it stumbles off the line.

Holy s&$t get that thing off of there. There "should" be two small bolts (10mm head) holding it on I think the crank Damper bolt may also go thru there....you can remove the center bolt than the two smaller ones and take the extra pully off, dont forget to put the large center bolt back in with the camfer pointed toward the engine.

Ah but some of the best valued rental property is in Eastern Europe