texasz

Many if not all the '83s came with a P90a head (not to be confused with the P90) wich is the one with the hydrolic lifters. These are generally considered scrap metal by most, the P90 is the preferred head. The non-turbo model from the time frame you listed is a P79, also not one you would want to keep. Hope this answers your question; or at least helps.

Does nobody else have any input on what tires are good for autocroxing when it's wet out? I'd like as many people's experience as possible.

Sorry, I can't help you with this one. I didn't even see them.

Damn those look just like a set I sold to a guy in Houston on ebay a couple months back for $20!! I hope that they are not otherwise he's making a great profit just off reselling them.

Now all they have to do is learn how to drive that fancy car!! Full story is located here if you want to read it: http://www.9news.com/storyfull.aspx?storyid=21728

Check out this thread for a good discussion on this also. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9004

Certainly read the zgarage site, it is packed with info!! Now some things that may or may not be on that site (a summary if you will) all of which is from my research not personal experience: F54 block was in the '81(or '80)-'83 240ZX, the turbo model has dished pistons, the non-turbo has flat top pistons the P90 is a turbo head and to get good results from it I have found that you must shave it, shim the cam towers, etc. the N42 head will give you about the same results as the worked over P90 just by putting it on an F54 block with flat top pistons, results being about a 10:1 CR I agree with the 3.9 or 4.11 diff completely! on the tranny I am going with the '77 5-speed (which I believe to be the same as the '78 and '79), here's a site with a nifty calculator to help you decide: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ header and larger exhaust yes, either a 2.25 or 2.5 (there is some debate on which is better) carb or injection, your choice (I'm staying with SUs) HAVE FUN!!!

Here, here Jeff!! I have to agree. The L24 was never designed to be a turbo, the F54 block on the L28 engines was designed as such and therefore built a little stronger (some will argue this point). They do not cost all that much, infact I think I've seen one on here recently for sale...or maybe that was over on www.hybridz.org (since many of those guys are doing V8 swaps the just want to get the L6 out of the way and do not charge too much). Much less work this way and it's a drop in upgrade...except for all the wiring and turbo conncetions but you'd have to do that much any how.

Coke-a-cola works for problems like corrided battery terminals! And to think, some of you drink that stuff! Think I'm kidding? Next time you pop one open pour a little into a bowl and place a dirty penny in it, come back a few hours later and see how clean it is now!

It has been said in this thread that the Azenis are a very good autocross tire for dry days. However, what is equal to them for wet days?

Good catch mperdue!! I have been lurking on this thread since the very first post and was wondering how long it was going to be until my name was mentioned. :classic: I will get one posted in the next day or two, I have been having some computer issues that are preventing me from uploading any pix from my camera right now. Maybe I'll look through some recent ones and see what I can come up with.

This causes me to have a question. I have an F54 block with flat-top pistons that I want to put an N42 head on, now I know that there is no problem with that. The potential for a problem is that I want to then put on an N36 intake and SUs. Will this work as a direct bolt on or are there modifications to the head that must be made?

Lookie maw, no hands....or brains!!!

Ok, I got it done!! Over all it was quite easy...but I'll explain more here. 1) Place wheel chocks at fron wheels, jack the rear of the car up and rest on jack stands. 2) Pull rear tire and get a trouble light (makes it MUCH easier to see). 3) There are four muts/bolts behind the wheel that hold the half shaft to the wheel and four nuts/studs at the other end that hold the half shaft to the diff, you must undo all of these. 4) Remove the four bolts from the wheel end and move the half shaft so that you can then pull it straight out away from the diff and off the four studs on the diff mounting flang. I had a hard time with this and used a pry bar and hammer to break it loose then it just pulled right out. 5) This is where it got really easy, I took the half shaft to the Z Clinic and had the owner replace the u-joints while I watched, it only cost me $50 and I saw what needed to be done to do the others when the time comes. The first hand education was well worth the $50 to me! 6) Reinstall is the reverse of the removal. I used antiseize on the nuts/bolts/studs to make it easier to remove next time when I replace the diff (some of them where rather difficult to remove). 7) Test drive and enjoy. No more noise!!

Have a junk yard do a parts locate for you. What you are looking for is the front diff from a Datsun 720 4x4 Pick Up that was manufactured between 1/83 - 6/83. This was the only time that there was one made, so as you can see they are tough to come by but they ARE out there! I just got one myself a couple weeks ago. I came from Arkansas but this was the only one in that state. I looked in the South Central and mid-West area of the country and found several but may were over priced; as in $300 wich for some, at least, included the entire rear end...chaching! there goes your shipping price and these places were not willing to sell only the diff, you had to take the whole thing or nothing at all. I see that you're in NC, I do recall there being a couple in AL.

Another way to find where the water is coming in from is go to a drive thru car wash and sit there watching it to see where it is coming in from...then after you have found it not only do you know what needs fixed but you also have a nice clean Z. The car wash is good because there is more force behind the water and you will see all the spots that will leak even in the worst of thunderstorms.

Depending upon the size of the sub you want to put in you may be able to have a box between the seat backs and the verticle wall of the hatch area (where the tool storage is on the series I 240Z). This would certainly be hidden and you are guaranteed to "feel the bass!" I figure that a pair of 8's would be about right, or maybe you could fit a single 10" in that area; I'm just working from memory on the size of that area and have never measured it.

I too sell things on ebay and I typically only add about $2 (sometimes even less) to the actual shipping cost unless the item is VERY heavy, then I do add a bit more. For some items I charge a flat rate, like CDs are $3 which barely covers the shipping and Jiffy-Pak. Tip: I ALWAYS email the buyer their tracking number immediately, this eliminates that email three days later, plus then I don't have to try and find that damn receipt with the tracking number on it.

Suicidal Tendencies....... I saw you mommy and you mommy's dead! I saw her laying in a pool of blood At least that's the way I think this song went...

1975yellowBSPZ, I have not done the job yet. I have ordered the Spicer joints only for the side that is bac (2 joints) and will let you know how it goes after I have done it. I would like to have a go at it this weekend if the parts come in time.

I have a PU that I shopped around for a spray in bed liner for. Rhino came out to be the best out there, it's sprayed on thicker for one which in the bed of a truck this matters. Any how, as far as what was said...these spray in bed liners do prevent rust...as long as they remain intact! Once a tear, rip, chunk or what ever has been taken out of it this exposes the underlying metal to the elements. Being that it is designed to be abused in the bed of a truck this stuff is all pretty tough, however it's not bullet proof and can be damaged. Just think of the under side of your car when you kick up rocks and other items at a highway speed...what if you hit a board in the road, etc. On the bright side this material can be patched easily! I have a spot on my tailgate where the bolt heads are that hold the handle on that has been scrapped off through normal usage and the Rhino place will fix it for me...no problem. Hope this helps a little.

Be careful with the plastic, it is old and they do break. Trust me. That plastic thing is threaded so you can also turn it so that it moves up then you are just left with pulling the metal rod out, this may give you a little more room to work with and also move the plastic part out of harms way. This is a tough job as there is not much room in there to work and it's hard to get your hands in there. Best of luck.

Most of these and some other parts are now for sale on eBay. Please go have a look-see!! http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=djsting1&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

I sent the seller an email requesting more information and clarification. NO REPLY!! EVER.

Seeking the following parts: The center console from series I(if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) Heater/Radio panel (no controls, just the plastic cover panel)(if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) The ashtray from series I The valve cover from series I(if it is the same as mine, reads "NISSAN 2400 OHC") Rear license plate light assembly (if in very good shape with no cracks, breaks, etc) Fuse box and cover from series I(if in very good shape with no melts and has long pigtail) [/list=1] Please provide prices, pix, and any other info you have on these parts.