MikeW

The factory tires had an aspect ratio of about 75.

You can only have one attachment per post. It's actually more convenient to upload a bunch of pictures to your gallery. People can then easily comment on them individually.

Anyone have any experience with either of these (or anything similar)? <a href=http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1378&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=627&iSubCat=628&iProductID=1378>Short Circuit Tester</a> <a href=http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1411&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=627&iSubCat=628&iProductID=1411>Fault Finder</a> It seems like these could come in quite useful with our old cars. I've got an occasional short circuit somewhere in the brake light circuit that blows the fuse slowly. You can actually watch the center of the fuse change color and slowly melt away (after about 5 seconds). There must be a short somewhere that has high resistance.

Have the previous listings all been from this same seller? It appears to be a Nissan dealer in Denver.

Ah, that's what I get for trying to read too fast; sorry about that. I've never used speed bleeders but I have used a vacuum pump and it worked great for me. Hopefully some of the other suggestions get you further along.

What technique are you using to actually do the bleeding? There are a number of products out there designed to make it a much easier job (speedbleeders, vacuum pump, etc.) especially if you're having to do it all by yourself. It sounds like you've gone through an awful lot of fluid.

1 Bravo 6 just spent 3 months touring the southern states of Australia and the weird accents were coming from bloody yankee tourists. I doubt he knows that in the US yankees only truly exist in the northern US states (including Florida) and are the ones that have the weird accents.

That's my guess. He even admitted such in a gallery comment.

The picture only says the steering wheel is from a 280Z, not that the car is a 280Z.

I converted my daily driver 240SX to R134a several years ago and it works as well as or better than the original R12. I keep a thermometer in the vent and on hot days here in Atlanta (90 degrees F or 32 degrees C) it routinely blows air at 42 degress (or 5 degrees C). I've heard that 134a got a bad reputation in the early days (that it didn't cool as well) because of some improper conversions. As a refrigerant it's just as good as R12 but has some different moisture absorbing properties. You don't hear people complaining about the air conditioning in new cars which are all designed for R134a. I don't know about converting original 240Z units to R134a; I plan on installing a modern system like what MSA sells as I'd rather have a smaller and more efficient compressor.

See http://www.grundy.com/coverage.html Specifically this: No Mileage Limitations This policy authorizes unlimited hobby use of your collector vehicle in collector activities, exhibits and parades. While participating in these events, owners are free to enjoy their collector vehicle without monitoring the odometer.

Alternatively, it looks like you can order direct from Tabco and get better prices than even VB: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm Note that the part numbers listed are exactly the same as rustrepair.com so they're definitely tabco.

Yes, Victoria British. Unfortunately you'll need to get a free catalog from them as their web page is useless. http://www.victoriabritish.com/z_zx_cat_page.htm

Those prices actually look high to me. I think that all of the repair panels are made by Tabco and are available for less from other sources. I recently bought a couple of lower front fenders from VB for $29 each and rustrepair.com lists them for $43.

Well, I've never even had an air pump (removed by P.O.) but I'm guessing you could adapt it so that the pulley spins freely without driving the pump or remove whatever fan is inside the pump so that it doesn't actually push air.

I was thinking about the possibility of restoring the emissions stuff for looks but not functionality. In other words, having it disabled internally. What's your opinion?

I just spent a few hours doing the preparation work for using the POR15 floorpan restoration kit. I did the marine clean and rinsed. It seemed weird running a garden hose on the inside my car. I got most of the water out with a rag and let the closed car sit in the sun for an hour or so. I then did the metal ready step and let it properly stay wet for 30 minutes or so before again rinsing thoroughly. I started to dry it out the same way (POR15 recommends using a hair dryer) and suddenly thought of the wet-dry vacuum I'd been using to get the loose debris out. It gets the water out quickly and even pulls it out of the gaps between the seat support and the floorpan.

The link I posted was a list of the top 10 posters. ZmeFly was #7 on the list with 1303 posts.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/memberlist.php?s=&what=topposters&perpage=10

Edit. Previous sympathy message no longer warranted.

This place has a lot of decals but I can't tell if they have the one you're after: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

I'm not sure I would trust hand drawings to be accurate enough to differentiate between knob styles. Have you even looked at the car on the decal on the jack that shows you the proper jack points?

Ok, I may be in way over my head here but it seems like you'd calculate it as follows: Original E88 head volume : 44.7cc L24 cylinder bore: 83.0mm L24 cylinder radius: 41.5mm 0.030" = 0.762mm Cylinder volume = pi * r squared * h Volume of cylinder removed: pi*(41.5mm)*(41.5mm)*0.762mm 4122.88 cubic mm or 4.1cc Resulting volume = 44.7cc - 4.1cc = 40.6cc

Labor and expensive OEM parts. Nissan hired a couple of shops in California to do all of the work. They used up a lot of Nissan's remaining parts inventory for things like dashboards. I believe this is one of the reasons that the program ended soon: they just didn't have the parts. Keep in mind that these were very thorough restorations and I'm sure the fact that they're so-called factory restorations makes them worth more even if the work was the same as what someone else did.

It's been years since I replaced my clutch slave cylinder so I can't remember many details of its operation. I think you should be able to see the actuating arm move when you (well, someone else) steps on the clutch. If it doesn't move then clearly the clutch is staying engaged hence the inability to shift. It may be that the reservoir is full but some air has entered the system. I'm sure someone else here can jump in with a more detailed diagnosis.