grannyknot

Well they are still in the design in 77, so yeah maybe some kind of locater pin went through them.

"That is a wise investment that I lucked into, quite rare."

Mark, can you not loosen the bushing clamps on the steering rack and give the rack a slight twist back to give a bit more clearance?

That's it exactly, turbos are a perfectly legitimate form of power gain but it seems like everyone I know who has a turbo is always fixing the latest weak link, it's like a spiral staircase that never ends.

Turbo's are cheating, there, I've said it and can never take it back. Here's the sound turbos love to make

One piece, very slick, that curved corner can be a real buggar to make look good.

It's the same here except you might find bits of an old T-shirt stuffed here and there.

Thanks for the pics, simple is good. Many years ago I put a Ford 302 V8 into a Triumph TR6 and just used hockey pucks between the engine and frame, noisy, lots of vibration but it was great fun.

Looking forward to seeing how you tackle that little mess, D/S looks fantastic!

You might be able to find a 260-280 for $4k that is restorable in the desert states or the Pacific North west of the US but getting it over to Poland will not be easy or cheap.

Hey Congrats, I love a good engine swap and yours looks great, I can see all the work you have done to snug the engine in there and you have done some very good work. Do you have any pics of the engine mounts? But sort of like what Patcon said in post #9 you started with the fun, exciting part ( the engine) but really should have started with the hard part of the job, the re engineering of and old rubbery 280z. Sure there are Z's out there with 800 hp but those cars have had considerable stiffening added or the 800hp is just bragging rights and the car is undriveable. You might want to dial back the power until you have stiffened the car, wouldn't want to put a permanent twist in the frame Over on the Hybridz forum there are hundreds of threads that deal specifically with this topic, here is a current thread, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127659-another-datsun-zls3t56-swap-thread/ by Ironhead, he has done amazing work reworking the car to handle the power output of an LS engine. The easiest way to add strength and stiffness to your 280 is to add an internal roll cage that extends into the engine bay and back behind the rear wheels. Have a look through those 9 pages to get some ideas.

OK, a young MacGyver @DatsunZGuy, I thought for a second that I had your 240z but mine was a 72,

Are you taking the head off? Always good to replace the valve guide seals, pull the oil pump off and have a look for wear, scratches. Maybe a fresh coat of paint on the block and some detailing of other components.

It's MacGyver !

Okay, that makes more sense, that is a lot of work.

Well, you're in very good hands then, he is the real deal.

I would wait until the engine is running before doing the compression numbers, compression test with a cold engine isn't going to tell you much. Any 10w30 oil will do, it will get dirty pretty quick cleaning the engine, also a standard filter. Might be a good idea to take off the valve cover and pour a quart over the length of the cam, it can take an L24 engine 20-30 sec. to get oil up to the top on start up. Champion works but most would agree that NGK is better. If you are going to use the old points you could at least clean up the contact surfaces. Not sure where you can find gas tank straps but you can make a couple of temp ones out of plumbers strap until you find a pair.

Oh that's a beauty, another addition to my ugly Z file.

Just a notch above this one,

It could also be just some rust poking through at the seam between the dogleg and the rocker, clean it up with a wire wheel and see if that does it, you can also remove the panel between the wheel well and the door and peek through the hole on the body and look down into that rocker to see if it has spread further. Fingers crossed that you see clean metal.

A 20 gal parts washer tank used to be the standard cleaning apparatus filled with Varsol/paint thinner but not sure what the laws are now, I got rid of mine and now used a 2 gallon bucket filled with SuperClean, PurplePower or one of the other industrial Lye based cleaners. Sodium or Potassium Hydroxcide is the proper name for Lye, you can not use it on aluminum but it's terrific for steel, iron or plastics, soaking a part over night usually removes the grease, paint, undercoating. A cabinet media blaster is also a great tool to have in your shop for deep rust.

A 27mm or 1 1/16" socket, if your hands are skinny enough you can just get a ratchet down through the fan blade to get at the main crank bolt otherwise you can get it for sure from underneath.

Oregon, Washington state, seem to have a good number of restorable Zs listed on Craigslist in the Spring. I think your paint shop might be padding their estimate a bit, you can certainly spend $15-20,000 USD on a paint job but I'm pretty sure you can still get very good paint in the $10k range. Members from Caly, is this still true?

"The only two negative things about the car are: 1. Cylinder 5 is a little weak due to a small bypass on the head. quoted $1200 to get planed and put back together. 2. Tires will need to be replaced. tread is starting to crack.(will go flat from sitting) " Only 2 negative things???

The local car wash is my favourite place to take the really messy parts and then to the sand blasters.