grannyknot

Bumper skiing was our favorite danger, after a fresh layer of snow before the plough trucks came out we would hitch rides all over the suburbs of Vancouver on the back or sides of the city buses. We stopped skiing cars cause they could get out and chase you too easily, but bus drivers had to run the length of the bus first giving us lots of time to get away, then when he started moving again we would latch on and continue our ride.

grnsky, do you recall what year that minivan was? My local wrecking yard is all out of Kia Sportage door seals, always nice to have a set on hand.

Stunning, love that colour, but isn't that a metallic paint? I have always heard that with metallics you have to paint all panels at the same while hung on the car so that everything matches. Only asking because I'm about two weeks behind you, just finishing up 600 wet sanding.

Alright, that makes it easy, going with the original colour 305, don't want anyone thinking I'm trying pull a fast one. I'll save the 307 for another project. Thanks all

Make a good drift car though

"Improves drag coefficient by 8%" Hey, don't flood the market.

I'm doing the last of the sanding on the primer of the 77/280 and will be starting paint within the next couple of weeks. The car is going back together completely stock and the original paint code is 305 Light Blue with a white interior which is okay I guess, but I really like code 307 Pacific Blue. If I was keeping the car I would go with 307 but like every project this car will be up for sale pretty soon after completion. So, do I go with the original colour 305 or go with what I think is a more popular and saleable colour 307? Or maybe I'm over thinking it. Original colour, or 307,

I picked this off of my local Z forum, OntZcar club. I would like to post a pic from the link but it is preventing me, if anyone else can, please do. https://jalopnik.com/this-weird-70s-kit-car-is-a-volkswagen-based-datsun-z-w-1833023165

I picked up an old, never mounted Kamei front spoiler yesterday, no idea how old it is, seller said it's from the 70's. The card and install instructions look very old but it's in great condition, it even came with stickers!

I don't know what your experience is but the repair on your blue 70/240z will be considerably more involved than just replacing the quarter panel and if not done right the first time will really bring down the value of the car. The damaged area extends from the D/S rear corner diagonally across to the P/S B pillar just behind the door and may have bent the subframe that the P/S rear suspension hangs from. It's a big job that really should be handled by a body shop that specializes in frame straightening, some of the newest systems have racks that can bring a car back to spec with in a couple of millimeters. Other than the rear corner damage the car is a gem just waiting to be polished, if the engine matches and you weren't on the other side of the continent I would give you $5,500 without hesitation, it has great potential.

Sorry, I didn't look at which forum you were posting in, I'm in the wrong place.

There is no power steering pump on 69-78 Z cars. You can buy rebuilt starters or you could just have yours rebuilt locally. New OEM rubber bushings are very comfortable compared with poly, although poly bushings are good to have on the steering rack and steering shaft. Oh, and welcome to the fourm.

No inner or outer rockers, that's a view that you don't see very often. Kent, before you put that rocker back together, could you possibly layout all the panels on the floor next to the D/S door opening kind of like an exploded diagram and post a photo of it? That photo would be a useful addition to the Knowledge Base section of the forum as a quick reference.

Guys, Please don't cut that car in half! Hiyabrad, maybe purchase Sving1s entire car and transfer all your good stuff over to it? I know, none of my business but.... Hey, is that guy on the far right taking a leak on the tumble weed?

Like I said, these guys are the best. That s30 engine calculator above that 240260280 posted is not only a great tool but lots of fun mixing and matching, swapping heads and pistons to see how much potential power you can squeeze out. I know you are seeking a fairly mild boost in power but it shows you what is possible and power creep is addictive. One thing that I have read many times on Z forums is that the L28 engine can be just as well mannered with a stage 3 cam as a stage 1, that a stage 3 camed engine can have a smooth idle with more oomph with no penalties. It would be interesting to hear what anybody has to say about the stage 1 - stage 3 debate.

Okay, starting to see them now, still, such a pretty car. Are going to keep this one stock? I envy your half acre driveway, you could get get a good game of shinny going.

That D/S mirror can't be right...?

I just did this last month but damned if I can remember, @Namerow will know.

The answer is Yes, thanks zspert.

So the link that Banzai is selling is just a different colour but the same rating? https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php

That will do it, just swap the reserviors front to back. Originality ain't cheap.

Captain O, ZH, thanks, that is one little mystery solved, it seems my car was running with no fusible link at all for the EFI. Av8ferg, yes that seems to be the link I need too.

It's so nice to finally get all the myth and uncertainty removed from the subject of fusible links, it looks to me at least like all the questions have been answered and confirmed. Who is up to summarize all this and lay it out in a graphic form? @wal280z, wink wink, say no more. There is one fusible link that hasn't been discussed and that is the white fusible link on the positive battery post that protects #10 on the ECU and #39 on the Air Flow Meter. Are replacements available? Any other fusible links in the system that deserve a look?

That's brave.

Where is all the primer dust? Your shop is so clean.