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I've done some looking around and found a MSD#2222 adjustable FPR from Summit Racing for $95 or $79 off E-bay. Or I could get the original equipment Bosch #W0133-1607752 for $99. I could never figure out how to "alter my coolant temp sensor circuit resistance" as you did. The MSD is a universial FPR with a range of 36psi to 45psi. I kinda' like it. Opinions?

Now that I can attach photos I just wanted to say my fuel gauge is exactly as FastWoman suggested, I had to get "T" from Napa as there is no TrueValue around here and used 2 5/16" hose barbs. Next I'm going to put in a vacuum gauge off the intake somehow. Love those gauges!

I'm wondering if the PO may have tried to loosen lock nut on valve 4 ? with a wrench a some type of hammer and got up against the head of the bolt and cracked it unkonowingly? Then maybe after time it broke completely off? I actually thought I took the valve cover off for the 1st time because of the badly out valves. Just trying to figure out what caused the bolt head to break off.

I put my pressure gauge in today and got some questional readings. Gauge attached to hose from filter reads 48 p.s.i, hooked to the fuel rail drops to 25. Unplug vacuum from FPR goes to 34. Plugged vacuum line from intake and ran it without FPR getting any vacuum. Runs waaay better. If I let it sit at idle for a few minutes it loads up. A couple of rev ups and it clears up. I'm hard headed and stuck on the idea that the FPR is bad. $60 dollar part, but if it ain't broke..... Any advice?

Oh wow! I've ordered a header from MSA and I'll have to try and fix broken head bolt when I do that install. I'd call them "female bolts" and the opened top part on all of them where filled with carbon like sludge. Shop Vac and small screwdriver cleaned them out. I adjusted the valves cold 1st this a.m when Autozone opened and I could buy the Crows Foot set for $15. So much easier with that than hammer and wrench I promise. And torqing them back down? Couldn't have done it otherwise. "I" couldn't have. Initially the hot readings were from the front back to firewall, .012 E, .012 I, .010 I, .014 E, .012 I, .015 E, .016 E, .013 I, .014 E, .012 I, .012 I, .014 E firewall. As I mentioned earlier adjusted cold @ .010 exhaust & .008 intake having never done this I was quite anxious so needed the trial run. Drove around the neighborhood and re-checked them "hot". Only had to re-adjust 2 out of 12. That ain't bad. So my method from here on will be to go cold then hot. Also cleaned fuel injector plug connections. It really isn't hard with all the advice I get from you guys. Thanks again. I'm gonna' leave it alone untill I get that header then I'll deal with the broken off head bolt. Great day spent with my car! Now for a beer or five.

Question for Gary in New Jersey. Is your paint #305? I'm talking about the car in your avatar picture. I like that.

I just tried using a rubber hammer, don't have a hard plastic, still won't budge. Valves were sooooo far from spec numbers they're in another county (trying to be funny). I think they've never been touched by American hands. Autozone has a set of Crows Foot sockets for $15. I'll be standing at their door when they open this a.m. Also found carbon filled head bolt rolling around inside. Should I try extracting broken bolt now? I'd rather wait until cooler weather gets down here but if it could cause any damage I would go on and do it. It's the one between #2 and #3 spark plugs. Will it be ok for a month or two? I had a '76 when I was in high school then bought a '78 for that extra gear but never turned a wrench on either one. Now 24 years later I found this '77 with a 5 speed and love working on it. Funny how time changes priorities. But it sure is hot & humid this morning.

Is it right hand or left hand thread? Can't break mine loose. Don't want to add something like a broken valve nut to my 100 items to do list. Thanks for any help.

Could Seafoam maybe break something loose and mess up my Fuel Pressure Regulator? When I unhook vacuum to FPR my car runs like it did before Seafoam (better).

Ordered the ceramic coated header instead. MSA said not to use them on that header. Can hardly wait for delivery.

I'm about to get MSA's 6 to 1 header (paintable) and was wondering about effectivness of their exhaust jackets. Are they something I need or just wasted money? Thanks for any advice.

The BCDD is exactly what it was. Tightened the nut and it went to normal idle. Thank you. Y'all could cure cancer.

Will that plastic part on back of the switch allow the key to turn to start and not let the key come out in any position? Curious as to whether those little inside parts need replacing or if the plastic part will cure my ignition problem. I would like to keep original key also. Locksmith?

When I push in the clutch at Stop Signs or Red Lights or any other time I'm about to stop my '77 stays between 2,000 & 2,500 RPM for about 5 seconds then falls down to normal idle. Any advice as to what it could be? Opened Throttle Switch, black box on manifold, looked like new. Air sprayed the dust and cleaned the plug-in with electrical cleaner then Dielectic grease. Still does it. So I think extra fuel is burning off but I don't know squat. Help.

Question for FastWoman. Do you think if I put the biggest "T" I could find with the gauge on it in the fuel return line beside the fuel filter it would be ok? Or still restrict gas flow and decrease pressure? I'm a gauge freak. The more the better.

This is better than Google or having to call Dad, whose a Chevy Man. Thank You.

I'm going to have to take out my ignition tumbler? and have a locksmith rebuild. Key turns to on but won't go over to spin starter. Also turns off after I jump starter with screwdriver. Bought a push button starter switch for now($5 bucks). Does it matter which wire goes to which on solenoid because button switch has no + or -. Hate to burn up something. Thanks.

I am happy to say that without the "T" fitting, and the gauge straight on fuel line before engine bay filter and after filter(had to be sure filter hadn't already clogged) was 48psi. So glad to read advice from Fastwoman about static reading, thank you, now I know that I needed a new fuel pump because now I need a set of wheelie-bars. Car runs great. All those fittings don't do well on fuel injection. I was going back to my fast boat days when you needed that fuel pressure gauge always in eye sight. No fuel would seize a piston in a second. But those days are gone. Still have a problem with brief high idle but that's another post. Thanks again.

Is there an easier way than wrapping a towel around fuel filter line? Maybe some kind of valve somewhere?

I have an oil-filled 0-100psi 1.5" from Autobahn88 I got off the internet installed with brass "T" fitting between fuel filter and hard fuel line in front of valve cover. It reads 25psi at idle then when I unhook vaccum at FPR it goes to 35 or 36psi. Can I just run hot wire from battery directly to fuel pump without damaging it ($260 pump) it has 1 large post terminal and 1 a little smaller. Would the larger be the power side? and the smaller the switch? Put the hot wire to the larger terminal? Then it would run constantly and I could get a static reading? I'm so sore this a.m it may be Friday before I could get under there again. I need a floor lift. Thank you for all your help FastWoman.

I went ahead and replaced the original fuel pump (had some sort of body filler type goop on terminals so I'm assuming it's factory) fuel lines and fuel injection clamps, never knew there was a difference, been broken down 2 too many times because of bad fuel pumps. So now I'm unplugging vaccum line from manifold to FPR. The suction is really strong from manifold but it runs rough so I clamped off vaccum and drove around neighborhood. Pulls real hard in 1st & 2nd then I run out of road and come to a stop and the motor is revving really high, 2,000-2,500, then it drops back down after 5 to 10 seconds. Hooked the vaccum line back to FPR after it was good and hot and it starts "burping" through air box upon acceleration. Read about FPR in the "bible" and it makes me think it needs to be replaced. I'm running out of paint job money. Any thoughts?

Thank you and what a great looking car you have.

Does anybody run this plug? Will my stock '77 like it?

I think the clear hose test is going to be my answer for weak pump. I'll do that as soon as I can. Thanks. Sorry about header question while y'all are helping me with fuel pressure, I get excited with all the info on here, I'll ask about exhaust when I get the car fine tuned. Thanks again for help.

I unhooked the FPR vaccum from the manifold and it jumped up to 32psi but as it got warmer it fell a few psi's and idled terribly rough. The suction is from the manifold side so do I need to replace FPR valve as well or is it supposed to be that way? Thinking pretty much about going ahead and putting the Bosch pump on, might worry too much any distance away from the barn, because I also put a glass inline fuel filter ahead of the stock filter and before fuel rail. It would sort of surge every few seconds with air bubbles so I put in the fuel pressure gauge. What do y'all think about Pacesetter 6-2-1 headers? I have to replace the exhaust gasket and stud closest to windshield. Thought about the headers with glass pack in place of cat converter. Thanks for all the help.