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Dead on. I ended up using red Loctite though, thin film too. And my Dad said that was why people call them "freeze plugs" because colder makes them shrink but by the time you get them coated and ready for hammer time they'd be back to normal size so it makes no sense to to him. I like your reasoning too, makes perfect sense. Thank you for responding.

That's the instruction book I'm using, ha! Thanks Bonzi Lon. He says use silicone (pic #3) but alot of newer stuff I'm reading says no silicone anywhere because of it "rolling up" and breaking off then clogging something up. They swear by that Permatex brush on gasket sealer but Loctite has also been mentioned. Seems like Loctite would be the best but I thought I'd ask. Also read that brass could blow out due to pressure before the thermostat opens. Anybody had that problem? Seems plausible because brass is intended for marine motors that don't build as much pressure.

Should I use Loctite or brush on gasket sealer? Will freezing them make them easier to go in? Parts guy suggested getting them cold. Thanks for any replys.

E-mailed Melling tech and he suggested their 152. I bought one from Advance online with promo code for $55. They're a little heavier than aluminum but I don't mind a pound or so up front.

1/2 of a tube of grease, 1/2 of a day trying to find 1/4" clamp for dust boot but it's over and I'm happy.

What about the mud flaps?

I want a 240!

I can only find under trouble shooting in steering section #6 Noises- replenish grease but nothing else. Mine has a plastic rod that looks like it goes all the way through and of course I broke part of it off trying to pull it out. Could I drive that through or just leave it alone?

Thank you! That's going to be a great help.

I haven't gotten that far yet, sorry. Rebuilding the motor and replacing dry rotted bushings presently. I was thinking I could lay 2ft piece of similar size wood and transfer the measurments.

I live in the big city of Gadsden, in Etowah County. I found my '77 in Madison, went up 231 to get there but normally I go 431 to Huntsville. But then again I-65 to the airport. I'd do a Mapquest to your place, that town is really spread out.

Would you sale it? I'm only about 45 minutes from H'ville and wouldn't mind the ride if shipping would be a hassle or a ton of $$'s. Thanks

I'm going through mine ('77) now- new outer tie rods and boots- and it doesn't have any zerks. Can't break that big screw looking thing loose. I've read to apply some type of graphite or teflon spray on the slide parts before the boots go on. I sure wish I had the grease fittings though. Maybe install them? Drilling and tapping that cast iron would be tough plus filings getting in the old grease. I need to read FSM section.

Do you have a drivers side front bumper rubber piece?

I'm putting the master set on my '77. And I'm taking my time as suggested, replacing a few a weekend, starting with the front while my motor's out. I can't speak of the ride yet but the old rubber was rotten so it'll have to be better. Best deal I found was $165 to my door from http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/es-7-18102.html

I had some gasket material, that dark gray stuff, that I laid over the port side of the head and tapped out an impression with a small rubber hammer. Then with an Exacto razor knife cut it out and and taped it to the intake and saw the difference. I have read some info off hybridz about the restriction being inside the plentum of the intake. The square exhaust ports matched up perfect with MSA's 6 to 1 header. I don't have the bigger throttle body or anything other than the header. I was thinking (big mistake) that just rounding off the edges or "flowing" would help get a little smoother air flow coming in the head but maybe I'll just leave it be. I'll read what I can find out there. Thanks for your replys.

My intake holes are a little off from my cylinder head. Is it worth the time grinding it out or just leave it? Maybe try and make the air flow better by rounding off those edges. It's a bare intake so no worries about shavings getting into things. Suggestions please.

I read hours of internet stuff on oil pumps and never got the yes or no I wanted. A lot of people say M111 is the one to have for more oil pressure. I e-mailed a service tech at Melling and his reply to the difference in M111 & M152 was "The pumps use the same gerotor sets @1.570 thickness. They use different bypass springs. The M152 has a slightly higher bypass pressure. I bought the M152 from Advance for $45 after promo code.

I had a ZX one time. It seemed like Lincoln Continental compared to what I have now. Very comfortable.

The air flow meter needle could be stuck in the wide open position. I had that problem before. Take the cover off and give it a look. Also you might look at the TPS right below the AFM, small black cover that can be poped off, that needle arm could be sticking too.

Wasted on your schooling. These are grown men, show some respect and type words.

I'm sure we're talking about the same thing, the tapered pin has threads on top with a hole for a cotter pin. I had to wedge the fork tool in between to get the nut loose. I will replace both sides now because I have the whole rack and pinion mechanisim off the car for urethane bushing swap out. Thank You BeerManPete. I have a question for a BeerMan and hope I don't get in trouble asking on this forum. I usally drink canned beer in the summer and switch to bottles in the colder months. Well for some reason the bottled beer has started to give me a horrible headache so I've gone back to cans and no longer get the headache (unless I drink too many). Have you ever had this problem? Maybe if I poured it in a mug? Bottled taste so much better to me. It's the King of Beers Lite that I drink. Thanks for your experience.

The bolt/stud coming out of the passenger side tie rod turns freely. The other one doesn't. Would that mean it's gone bad? turning like that? Probably should replace both sides at the same time? They're not very exspensive from rockauto.com. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hey there. A free Z, that's great. A lot of parts I've bought from local auto stores. Here are a few online places that are very helpful. Have fun! http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html, http://www.jdmgallery.com/information/s30-manuals/s30/, http://www.motorsportauto.com/sale/, http://www.blackdragonauto.com/, http://www.zcarsource.com/, http://www.courtesyparts.com/240z-260z-280z-parts-s30-1970-1978-c-7724.html,

I started thinking about the 30 year race motor builder saying that the journals should be polished the way the crank turns and went back and did it again. I found a pretty simple way and am happy with the results. Also went to walmart and got a rifle cleaning kit for the oil holes. Worked great. Now all I need is the block back from machinest. I will have to find something to do until then (that's meant to be a joke as there's hundreds of things to do). Maybe I'll watch that football game everybody's talking about.