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When you lift a piston it disables that carb so your only running on 3 cylinders. Tune it so that it idles the same rpms on both when they're disabled. I fortunately have a timing light that shows rpm so it's pretty easy to do for me. Good luck If I remember right it's around 500 rpms, barely running.

Do you have some type of sealer on them that makes them look darker? I'm wanting a set for 305 blue metallic that's faded way beyond patina, more like primerina. The lighter black would look faded, like the car.

You can borrow a compression gauge from chain parts stores "loaner program" I think you may have advanced the timing then possibly ran it too hard and broke a ring in one of the cylinders. A quick and easy check would be to pull the plugs and look for one that is much darker than the rest. Hopefully I'm wrong, as usual.

Not me. Good looking car, I hope the sale does well for you GreekZ. Best of luck.

Contradictory cool.

Those are too nice to run! Put them in baby's bed beside your bed? Make good lamp bases or four corners for a glass coffee table. Maybe jewelry hanging around the necks of a rappers or a smoking device for said rappers. I think my girlfriend needs a present to go along with the cam kit I bought her last year.

Drove it for two hours. Parked in the garage spot, clean cardboard and two hours later drier than the sawdust around my toilet. That problem is gone for the next 20 or 30 years. My nephews will replace the next one if they have sense enough to keep the car? They're pretty rotten kids now, maybe they'll grow up!

Just had my "oh snap" for the month. Drove for an hour or so, good stiff pedal and felt great finally. Pulled it in my garage put clean cardboard under the engine bay to check for leaks, it's become an every drive habit as I have empty beer boxes out the ying yang. Went back downstairs to take this pic and had two brake fluid drips going on. Reservoirs were at the FULL level so I got under there and saw they were dripping out the two drain holes on the front rails. Apparently fluid had seeped in there over the past few months from the leaky M/C. I haven't moved the car in over a month but after a drive today the fluid decided to drip out. Fingers crossed but everything looks good and the levels are staying constant. Captain Obvious the 240 is at 11 o'clock. 280 is 4 o'clock like your's.

The '73 motor I bought and disassembled had the bigger rods and bolts but the pistons were flat. American car though, maybe there's a difference?

Until google goes out of business I'm in the issue at hand mode 24/7.

This off current subject but Matthew couldn't see a picture I posted a few weeks ago so I took another.

Bought the whole distributor from amazon for $100, '79 zx and put it on my 240. I think the 83s have the e12-93 with two connections. The extra was for the crank sensor?

Just the tip? That's funny, reminds of being young and horny. I'm too lazy to walk down there now but it was a black molly-graphite lubricant that I ended up using. My lithium grease is a spray on, this other I rubbed on with a finger.

From what I read beforehand, the vent was to keep the pressure from building up inside the booster's hole. My backing plate had a small gap at the bottom, booster side, and leaked fluid from there but the booster's hole was dry. So I don't know what to think about the difference in mine and your's Captain but I damn sure won't be rotating that booster. That was a HUUUUGE pain in the rectum. I'll go look at my 280's position later this morning, it's original to the car, and let you know. The sealer was there from Nissan so I put it back. I wasn't thinking theories and logic, I'm a worker bee. I just thought of something, my booster has one way to mount because of the vacuum hose, so it's right. More questions than answers but the clock says 0:00 and the confetti has fallen.

Have you seen this? It's what I followed when I put the Energy Suspension kit on my '77 by myself. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/moustache/index.html

That is so very funny looking! That's a strong squirrell to get the battery out for more storage.

I want to save this and the newest stuff you put up today. Thanks rossiz! Fantastic work I hope to follow someday soon.

In 2000 the orange 240 had some work done according to the receipts I got with the car. It says "remove and replace front and rear struts; time includes cutting and clapsing coils". I'm guessing "clapsing" means cutting out a round of the springs, collapsing somehow? The red 240 and the blue 280 are original springs. What are you using now? Thanks!

I put sealant on the opposite side of the backing plate, where it mates with the master cylinder.

Nissan did it.

realistic pricing sales cars. Thanks for pointing that out.

After a lot of reading I found a pretty interesting thread that proved true reading about other cars. Sealant between m/c and the backing plate, I used rtv ultra. No seal between the backing plate and the booster. The booster actually draws air from a small groove milled into the booster. It runs from the center hole to the 11 o'clock spot just pass the backing plate. I coated the push rod only with lithium grease. It slid into the m/c nice and smooth. The booster hole is clean and dry, another reason not to use sealant, leaky m/c can leak so you can see it's leaking.

I don't know if this has been mentioned but Hemming's is another good one. Here's a '73 for $37,500. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/datsun/240z/1534203.html

Is that the Brain? I meant for it to be the dumb dumb, Pinky.

I know yall have 280s but just to be taliking, I like the 15's better myself. The 16's are a bit too big on my color cars. They look awesome on some better colors, dark green and yellow cars are my favorites with the full wheel well the 16"s provide. Here's some random pictures I have uploaded. 240 with 16" Rewinds Blue 280 with 16"s, previous 240 with stock 14" set up. 280 and 240 with 14" wheels and tires.