siteunseen

Your work is getting results. Congratulations! Keep on marching.

That stiff choke could be the hoses on the nozzles. From what I've learned the choke is actually just dropping the nozzles, no closing of the butterflies like most chokes. I bought one a few years ago somebody had put stiff fuel line from float chambers to the nozzles. It was so hard to pull the lever back I broke where the pull handle connects under the console. Lucky for me they make a better bracket that mounts to the sheet metal tunel. Z Car Depot IncChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240ZChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240Z - 800-733 (). Choke and console reinforcement plate for use on Datsun 240Z 1972 to 1973 that use the series 2 console where the choke lever was shifted toAnd I would try clamping off the return and see what that does. At worst the fuel will come out the overflow bungs on the lids. I've seen people run the overflow hoses into a empty drink bottle or a big medicine bottle to keep fuel off your engine. I apologize if I'm confusing your work. I just read the forum a lot and throw stuff out hoping it could help the problem. Cliff

@Captain Obvious do you know if the fuel rail for flat tops work with earlier carbs?

One more thing you should look at as a possible weak link. The hose that goes from the float chamber to the nozzle has to be soft. Off the shelf 3/16 fuel line doesn't work too good. Another thing on the no start is the linkage has to be just right between the carbs. Those flat stops can look right but be out of order.

I'm taking a year off from life. 99% of the bad ones are from pushing to fast to get back to work. Not me, I enjoy being at home.

Is the return restricted on the flat tops like it is on my '72? Easier saying, does the fuel rail for flat tops need changing to the one that is for 3 screw domes? Did you change the fuel rail? Maybe they are different.

I'm with you on older is better but when my "newer" "fireball" coil goes to sh**...I'll be walking home on my brand new artificial knee. I ran the old one for 55 years and that SOB just quit.

Walter Moore is the one that did the work. Distributor advance curves revision 1-2.xls

Everything looks good. I just need to start over with the basic tune up. The dizzy I have says 17 and 34 with full advance. I used that excel spreadsheet someone made for all the distributors. My markings show it to be a '79 dizzy. It's ran great until I pulled the plugs and "cleaned them". The car has sat since my knee surgery almost a year now. I haven't done anything since but trying to get back to normal but I admit my priorities have changed. I'm going to get a set of bpr6es and leave that big ZX gap out of it. I read a pretty sensible thread on keeping the gap to the head not the distributor. So I'll try .035 to start then see what that does. I know carbs need protruding tips so I'll go with that. Thank you for the help!

You can check fire at each plug with a 12v light but before that you should make sure the firing order is right. 153624 which is not the same as a straight 6 Ford or Chevy.

I'm using a Crane/Fast PS20 Fireball with 1.4 OHM coil, no ballast resistor. I wanted all that old stuff gone, I've never fooled with points except file down the contact point on my go-kart. Cool little file too. It starts missing with the wider gap up high but from what I remember I've always ran the wider gap? Grasping at straws, the easy ones.

I have an later e88 with SUs and ZX dizzy, e12-80 on my 240. I've read a lot of different stuff on the plug gap. Half say go with the motor and the other half say go with the ignition. Motor says protruding with .035ish gap. Ignition for '79 says non protruding .044ish gap. I like to think it has the strong spark at .035 protruding for carbs. I opened them up to .042 on bpr6es-11 and it didn't run too good. What do you all think? I also read that a closer gap on the 1.1mm would angle the tip downward too much and you don't want that. I think I should buy these instead of the 1.1mm https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ngk-standard-nickel-spark-plug-bpr6es-reliable-oe-performance-4008/18090163-p?product_channel=local&store=6668&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=6668&&&&&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16396150477&gclid=CjwKCAjw6vHHBhBwEiwAq4zvA_2SIcXPfpN8WAkuS9dMgo6W_K-pa5oGWg56uecTiat8BKKgmfmKTRoCxtAQAvD_BwE Thank you for any input.

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day. The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.

I use a long screwdriver to jump the the 2 big wires on the solenoid. Touch them both but you want the car in neutral and the key in the ON position. It scares the crap out of me but I'm a big ole sissy. Good luck and be careful, use and old screwdriver because it's going to leave an arc burnt spot on your screwdriver. I like to have a person filming this to hear my scream. Just kidding but it really is good to have a witness in case something goes wrong.

I had an alternator that popped mine. It was a reman from a chain store. The smart electrical guys on here said it was "back charging". Took it back, they tested it and it showed BAD. Gave me another one and so far so good.

Can you post a picture of your floats? It should not look like a ramp, more like a hump. They should look like this... Not like this...

You are correct, I apologize it was the BPT clip that failed. I'm responsible for this off ramp of @chaseincats thread. I get bored and try to add to the forum but always end up confusing people. I'm the one that is confused and it's bad wiring since the day I was born. Please try and overlook my bad days as I try my best to add some good days as well.

Just about everything I own has some type of emotional value or I would not have it. But you are absolutely right, moving on was a wise decision. I can only hope to be wise some day.

That EGR tube was a recall from Nissan and if you had the work done there was a sticker inside the hood on the passenger's side. The pics show efi then carbs. Which 1 you running?

Seems appropriate.

My 240 had almost a pound of rust and crud. Tank cleaned up beautifully and I haven't had any issues since I coated it with Red-Kote. I'd already done the tank on my 280 and was anxious to do the 240 then I realized all the hoses and the evap tank I needed to replace. What a job that turned into! For my 280 I think I bought the last Bosch OE fuel pump in 2011 thinking that was my problem. Oh boy was I wrong! A lot of other problems with the EFI were ahead but I got it all worked out and made a fuel rail for it and put in a 6to1 ceramic coated header. The EGR was clogged up and caused a huge rotting hole in my aluminum intake manifold. It runs good now but only after adding a potentiometer to add more fuel to the ECU's coolant temp sensor function. I've got the OE pump still and it works fine but newer is always better. I think it was $250? I say run it until it starts not keeping the pressure you need. These pics of my 240 tank are not indicative of the 280s tank from what I've seen with my cars.

I am trolling Spot the Bot. It's a new game I like instead of telling brain dead people the same stuff over and over.

I've gotten that before but just for a minute. Happened yesterday then took a wizz and back to normal. The least of my worries is with classiczcars.com, but I understand. Logging onto government sites for insurance scares the bee Jesus out of me.