siteunseen

I'd bet those come with the rubber and the clamp is on the hose in the picture. That looks to be the best deal on new ones plus they look an awful lot like my Standard FJ707Ts. You might even find a coupon code for O'reilly's and get an extra 10% off?

When I was going through that search the Standard FJ707T was the best choice at the time but they have gone waaaay up, more than double in price. They were made in South Carolina, came with the rubber insulators and high pressure band type clamps.

I've got a '79 ZX housing. I'll try and find it today, let you know asap. I thought he may have to plug a hole or two but that's no big deal.

Msa's out of stock, unavailable. Don't hold your breathe waiting on me but I was going to hit my junkyard and get some small stuff, those thermostat parts too but mainly the engine bay inspection lights. I'll let you know after I go, maybe this week?

I'd bet it's #905. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/ Check this one out, really nice too.

You can try zcarsource.com. Sometimes they are out of stock but show available on their web-page, but worth a call for sure. Finding one at a junkyard would be nice too. http://www.zcarsource.com/thermostat-housing-top-240z-260z-280z_8_77847.html

I think you've seen this but I'll put it up anyway, maybe it will be helpful somehow.

I like your's best though, mine is still factory black. Captain Obvious is a really good drinking buddy, I'm glad you guys had fun. I got to hang out with him and some other members at Memphis Z CON 2015. No one went to jail or the wrecker's yard, good week for all. I did get some 240 brackets from a member on here, Eurodat aka Chas, and put an old 240 bumper on the front and still have the bartop rear bumper from 77s and 78s. I'll get it painted one day but I'm skating by telling myself it's the "patina look".

It looks similar to the Xenon I have on my 280. Jegs has the best price, I paid around $150 and got free shipping. The one on the yellow Z, http://www.jegs.com/p/Xenon/Xenon-Front-Air-Dams/2971003/10002/-1 here's mine on a '77

Here's something I did when I removed that stuff. It sucks air like you wouldn't believe, stock air filter. I think you should also put a vacuum gauge on the intake and see what you're pulling. I'm thinking "under load" could be an air problem too. Read over this link real quick, courtesy of @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/ EDIT: scatter brains here to explain why I said what I did above. While I was working on the 280, about 6 months worth, Alvin and the chipmunks that live nearby made a food storage facility out of my air cleaner. It would rev up fine in the garage but didn't have any power under load. Damn chipmunks.

I'm going to guess the MAF you're talking about is the AFM (air flow meter) but I didn't when I deleted all that stuff from my '77. Removed the egr and blocked off that hole, removed the BPT valve and two vacuum lines, one line went to a vacuum switch on top of the warming plate, removed all that. Plugged the coolant line that comes off the warming plate and goes around the front of the head to the suction side of the radiator by the alternator and the other one at the thermostat housing. The other vacuum line went to the bottom of the BCDD I think, plugged that too. the yellow circle in this picture

The sending unit to the gauge is pretty easy to get to and if you touch the two wires together it should show EMPTY on the gauge (or FULL, I forget). That will let you know if it's a bad gauge. Mine was sticking at Empty because the previous owner had tapped the glass so hard the needle was up against the lens. I replaced the sending unit and fixed the lens. Now it works right.

Is that Tim's from "moonshiners"? He has the same tag. I've never seen those before.

I bought these by the case for my Mercury 2.5 outboard. We called them "gap-less plugs".

Man that's a sharp car! That could be a 70's movie star. Looking forward for the pictures. EDIT: Here's the one I had and sold. He had it painted and shined up the aluminium slots. It's the #110 red, kinda orangish red to me where your's is RED. Anyway, I liked it but didn't have room for 3 Zs.

Yes Sir, shiny and clean but for a 240. I don't know if the 280's are still available but the 240's are. Seems like I paid $47, plus the 0-ring it was all $50. I guess I don't drive as hard as you guys, I can't remember my needle moving while I'm driving. I do keep a full tank though. Lesson learned from my earlier days.

+1 for antenna

I assume that's where the "endurance race" gets the name. That spindle gear endured all it could.

I've tightened mine down from the center outward. I don't know if that's right or wrong but something to think about before reinstalling.

My '77 stays pretty stable while driving. Here's a couple of things to look at that'll help understand the way they work. Open the hatch and you'll find the round cover that's over the sending unit. If you touch the two wires together the gauge should go to EMPTY. EDIT!!! maybe FULL, can't remember.

Looks good, the injector cut outs make it look like an N42 head. I learned the hard way about that "one size fits all" lapping compound. Captain Obvious offered me some of the rough and the finer but I marched on with that crap. I jimmy rigged a suction cup off the lapping tool to my variable speed drill, that helped a lot. Seems like I used a male 3/8" air coupler in the drill and slid the suction cup over that? After using it straight I started doing "laps" with a little water mixed in until it made a nice steady and smooth sound.

You beat me Jim!

That about sums it up Jai. Thanks for the memories of Jelly Bean. I wish like hell I'd gotten an older Buddy to fill in the hole she left but after seeing this picture I had to go get him. He looked so miserable. Probably still too, I keep calling him Jelly. You'll smile again real soon, there's a lot of "under loved" boys and girls out there that would make a great co-pilot for you and Red Bird.

I drilled out the m8 bolts your talking about. Bought m10s from Nissan. They're for the Titan 8 cylinder. I'll put up the part numbers in the morning. The header I bought from msa has the first and last holes already the bigger size.

I've pulled the injectors with the fuel rail, not the intake. Right or wrong I dunno?