siteunseen

They are super easy to rebuild. I followed this book without any problems, easy to understand and good photos. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

I've always gotten good deals from Advance Auto with a coupon code from https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com Buy online, save 25 to 30% and pick up in store. I think the last one I bought was $20. Good looking car! Thanks on my 240 too, '77 280 runs like a new one but has old faded paint.

Check the fusible links on the passenger's fender well. Read this, he did all the stuff on a '77 too. Saved me tons of money on mine. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html Then do this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm here's the whole gold mine, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ You have a good car to get help here, many helpful people on here with '77s. Good luck, it's cold outside, we're stuck inside and everybody's dying to help someone.

maybe something useful? https://www.google.com/search?q='71+240z+automatic+to+manual+distributor+wiring+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq='71+240z+automatic+to+manual+distributor+wiring+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.25931j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Get one for yourself. Then you'll have a compari SON car.

If you haven't yet, it'd be a good idea to put a cheap clear plastic fuel filter coming right out of the tank. It will catch any debris before it gets to the pump and you can check it to see how quick it gets dirty. That was my biggest headache, a cruddy fuel tank. I could drive a couple of times around my neighborhood and it would suck up the sediment and kill the flow. I got some good exercise walking home. A Fram G2 worked better for the smaller hose on my 240, Fram G3 on my 280. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm Pictures of my tank before and after.

Compare the old to the new. Some rod bending may be necessary. The nail head connectors were a PITA for me. I ended up using crimp on spade connectors, then covered them with liquid electrical tape.

Sweet tea in Alabama and barbecue is a noun not a verb.

I've got those in both my Zs. Good clutch with a medium pedal. One's with a 10lb. aluminum flywheel, works great.

Well now if you all think I'm goofy those guys from West Virginia have me beat coal stone dead. Them are some nuts/best guys in the States. Nick Saban's is from the coal country, and I'm sure he's had a drink or two. Something stunted his growth, maybe whupping his his lilly? But he still sees good!

Somebody gave me this..., and it taste like tequila. I'll drink it anyway but I did the shake test off Moonshiners do and the bubbles go away quick. I've buried all my car keys and given the map to my neighbor. Happy New Year everybody. From here on out disregard anything I type. I'm being proactive.

Damn! Mine doesn't have those cut outs. I'm guessing those are original equipment? They look unburnt or just super clean.

Yep, my local Nissan got me one for my '72. I don't know about the 280 but surely it's still available. Google it but there's a way to test the gauge by shorting out the sending unit. I honestly can't remember but I think if you touch the two post together the gauge goes to FULL??? That's probably backwards so please google before doing that. 8^) Your float may have a small hole allowing fuel in?

The first one I did on a 280, I drove the new throw out bearing down with a block of wood and the old bearing. It made a spinning noise when in neutral. The next one I had pressed on at a machine shop, no noise when adjusted to spec. FYI My guy didn't even charge me so I'd say $10 at the most. The Exedy clutches I buy are 6009s I think? They don't come with new collars. I think that's what Zed Head is referring to above?

That speedo connection can wait until later and see if it drips. The bronze bushing gets rid of a sloppy shifter but zcardepot.com sales the oe plastic ones. Some people like the plastic. I was rattling off things I experienced, hopefully your's will be different, newer maybe? My '72 hadn't been driven much and had all the original parts from 1972. Wishing you the best with your swap. 8^) Cliff

Oh yeah, here's another little thing that makes a huge difference while you're there. Replacing those plastic bushings on the shifter with bronze door hinge bushings. Thanks @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html Oh yeah again, make sure you get the slave rod and pedal all adjusted right. Before they started using the automatic adjusting slave cylinder the older ones were able to be longer or shorter by loosening the nut and running out or in the rod. When i first bought my 240 it wouldn't get up the driveway from slipping so bad. I got on here and read how to adjust them and ran that old clutch for a year until I rebuilt the motor. Sorry but I'm just getting up and some coffee in me, starting to remember things after a few cups. Removing the old console is tricky too if you haven't done that yet, you have to unplug the choke light switch to the left of the radio. Then the choke holder from the console. Mine was cracked already so I bought the tunnel mount from Art Singer, one of the best cheap upgrades of all time in my opinion. Well I just found out it's for the later 240s. https://zcardepot.com/choke-lever-mounting-plate-reinforcement-240z.html

This is a couple of dollars at a hardware store and saves some trouble, rubber cap for plumbing. Sorry I can't remember the exact size but I'm 99% sure it was a 2 inch? The one one the nose is the 2", the smaller one over the shifting mechanism was just for pressure washing. Maybe 1 1/2"? I use a motorcycle jack but like jaymanbikes says above you have to really get it up high to clear everything coming out. I would buy the rubber seal that goes into the speedo connection too. After they get worn in and you remove the old one, when you go back it'll leak a little. Nissan still has the new ones for just a few bucks. I'll find the info and add it to this post in an edit. here's the part numbers for the speedo cable. I drove mine down with a 10mm deep socket. Another thing, the pilot bushing needs to be lubed up for some reason. I read it in the Tom Monroe How to Rebuild the Nissan L motor book, you put it between your thumb and your pointing finger, fill it with oil and pinch down until you see little drops "sweat" out the outer side. Good luck, it's easier than than you're probably thinking.

Is that the one @Mike W uses with his big brake set up?

Brings back memories. Thanks for posting.

Would those be the ones with the bigger rod bolts? I bought a '73 motor just for the round tops and pleasantly surprised to find the later E88 head and the better rods, now maybe better pistons too. Now to figure out what to do with all this mish mash of parts I have coming out the windows of my storage building.

I think you're talking about number 8 on here, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/rear-fender-rear-panel-rear-panel-finisher call Courtesy Nissan and give them that p/n, they'll be able to say if there's any available from Nissan. You'd be surprised at the parts they can get. Good luck!

I finally drove it to the Christmas dramas I have to attend each year. I assume it was like bringing a baby for the first time, everybody knows but have never actually seen it. That car pushed my cool uncle level to the ceiling, I didn't think it could be any higher. After years of being bypassed, having a good heater is nice when I have to ride with the window down. I have a complete weaterstripping kit from MSA just not the desire.

The easy way to "kinda" test for lean I learned from a Nissan certified mechanic. He put some taped up vise grips on the return line to build more pressure and my car ran better. He didn't know about the "tweak" and said I needed a new FPR or pump or injectors...blah, blah, blah. $5 dollars at Radio Shack and 30 minutes later it ran better than ever. But I would think, just for smog test not everyday driving, you could lean one out the same as make one richer. I know I played with mine for months while driving. I could change the Temp, gas mileage and how it ran up top and from take off. It was fun for awhile.

I'm stuck inside today and read from one end of the web to another looking for a vacuum advance. There's tons of info to read. I think I would start a new topic on repair or replacing the vacuum advance module. I read a lot on the Australian Z car forums but now that Photobucket SUCKS @Captain Obvious I couldn't view or copy and paste any of the photos but there were a lot of threads on the diaphragm being bad and the fix, but I couldn't see it because Photobucket SUCKS. Good luck, I'm going to bed, my eyes hurt.

I used 0000 steel wool to clean mine, only to see how pitted they were. I ended up cutting a short section out and replacing with fuel hose. It is the supply line straight underneath the battery. The return side wasn't that bad so I left it, coated with the SEM product. One day I'll replace them with new lines, right after I replace the old poly sheeting under my house.