siteunseen

@Grubb240Z Looks like your's.?

The air screws are #10 on the diagram. Also shown in the last 2 pictures of the first post in this thread. Those are the ones I turn to balance my air flow.

Reefer Madness.

Mark you know about the flat heads, right? I thought that was a Harley motor and answered X. Usually the questions that have an odd answer are the right ones but i was wru wru wru wrong. Terrible Fonzie impersonation. 8^)

Google "quick and dirty su tuning classiczcars.com" Those holes are on bottom on my '72. That very well could be a problem. The trick I learned from quick and dirty is get the front and rear running equally shitty separately as Phillip so brilliantly describes. He's a wordsmith, explaining methods my dog could understand if he could read and I'm working on that.

It was the type of motor. I said flat head and was wrong.

$$$$$$$$ is all that matters. Alabama has the best tomatoes. Weed grows the same I've always heard. I wouldn't know 'cause I'm a good boy.

I missed one.

https://www.zoo.com/quiz/car-engine-quiz?mkcpgn=i600013684&utm_source=gdn&utm_medium=paid&utm_term=m.tmz.com&utm_campaign=Zoo-Car-Engines(mobile)&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxrmJ0Kmy4QIVxhKBCh2Cqw6bEAEYASAAEgKHF_D_BwE

Hover cars will be great one of these days. I'll be dead though just like before Alabama has legal weed.

Occasionally Concerned Disorder Look at the other side!

@rossiz has SUs on his 280 and I'm pretty sure he runs a/c. He isn't a half full, half empty kind of guy. He does it 100%. Maybe he'll chime in with his insight. Good guy.

Here's a good read on 3M tape from EScanlon. Auto paint shops would have good info also.

I like your new picture Mr Arnett. She's a beauty!

yes! My 2000 Camry has a very similar aluminium bumper like this Cruz under the bumper cover.

I'm not sure what sending units work on which years. Seems like the side mount would be the same but they say up until 1974. i thought '75 and '76 had the side mount too? I know my '77 drops in from the top, under the hatch deck. here's the part numbers for Nissan sender and o-ring, $50 is what I paid a few years ago from my local dealership. part number is on the box in one of the pics, o-ring number is written in the post. You've been dealing with this for awhile I see. Hope you get it fixed! Cliff

If you don't mind and need it running just cover the hole with JB Weld or similar. It's at the rear, who'll see it?

If I ever do it again tape will be used. I did put rubber fender washers under the bolts. Keeps the spoiler off the paint.

Me too! You need it when? Dat soon?

is that #307? I love that!

There's a few cold start parts that could be bad or out of adjustment. The cold start valve, the AAR auxiliary air regulator both help on first start up.

Red Line fluid for the transmission and the rear differential would be my recommendation. Be sure the differential fill plug will come loose before draining. Good tutorial... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Thanks Phillip, @240260280z

Your's is the opposite than mine, damn it! You have a "reserve" like a motorcycle does. I only could wish for that scenario. haven't been stranded so far but it is nerve racking when I'm on the interstate. I pretty much top mine off after each drive. I didn't know about the set screw they talk about above. One day when I'm really bored and can't sleep I may pull mine and see if I can get it right. Is there any chance your gauge glass is hitting the needle? I say this because when I bought mine the sending unit was rusted frozen and the guy I bought it from had "tapped" the heck out of the gauge causing the glass to fall inwards and hinder the needle sweep. Best of luck! Cliff

here's my rear spoiler as mounted from the dealership in 1972. It's mounted right before the hatch rolls down. That was one of the hardest things I've done that I thought would be easy. Take the vinyl cover off the interior side bottom of the hatch to access the bolts. Getting the nuts on are a huge pain in the rectum. Good luck! Not my car but the 432 google search... https://www.google.com/search?q=mounting+rear+spoiler+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=mounting+rear+spoiler+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.11718j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Edit, I'm a slow typer. 26th-Z is right. It would have to be driven in straight on. I use a big socket with tape on the end and a hammer for the block's plugs. Good luck, I hope you find an answer. You could always use the rubber expansion plugs if you get the old one out. I forgot about those.